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1928 Chrysler 72 roadster for vintage speed events


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Yeah perhaps A Ford might be an option or maybe if you can find a half decent 75 one might be the go, just had a look on the one I removed from a 75 wreck that I obtained, it has sat outside for decades and if a previous person hadn’t attacked it with a screw driver the pot metal frame would have been fine. Funny how some survive no problems then others disintegrate IMG_5351.jpeg.cfa61971fcfda532ee3ee000421427de.jpeg

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I would be but the outer metal mounting frame is bent from some one previous and they have busted the bottom rivet out of the pot metal. So in saying all that if we are going to send something half way round the world it would make sense to find a better one. Have you tried Jay yet if he has one otherwise I will have a look to see if I have a better one

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Rod P,

 

Good thought but there are no numbers or writings on it anywhere. I am looking for a replacement.

 

Thanks

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1 hour ago, BlueDevil said:

Rod P,

 

Good thought but there are no numbers or writings on it anywhere. I am looking for a replacement.

 

Thanks

Have look on the back of the bowl it sits in, I think one of mine at least AC stamped on it. I will check later and take some photos. Also internals very similar to 27 Chev.

Cheers Ben

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So I had a bit of a look in the shed and here is what I found. The first photo is the back of a 75 Speedo, showing it was made by the AC spark plug co, sorry no model no etc.IMG_5360.jpeg.2f94c4113c900c4d1cbd967864f82088.jpeg

 Now I had bit more of a look through my collection (loose term for junk pile) and discovered 1927 Chev uses the same pot metal core but a different mounting ring is attached. Below photo shows Chev on the left and Chrysler on the rightIMG_5356.jpeg.0e2085251e3c7db17e23f3759da657a6.jpeg 

I believe 28 Chev’s also use the same core. It maybe a pain to change the outer mounting ring from the pot metal core but this may open up some options to finding a donor speedometer.

This last photo shows the back of the core I posted here yesterday and shows the busted rivet mount and why I think there should be better options out there besides this one. Anyway hope this helps Cheers BenIMG_5354.jpeg.d9e30969b3dafbe61f3bf246bb873af9.jpeg

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Ok, Ben, I took your lead and got a '28 Chevy speedo. Chrysler on the left, Chevy on rightimage.jpeg.dbab7ff69e370d340e718064ef1c88d4.jpeg

 

Here are the internals of the Chevy. Virtually identical and in much better shape. I am worried about gearing being the same but I have a good set in the crumbled Chrysler

 

image.jpeg.2ee44743fdd70167b5f51d38b86146e6.jpeg

image.jpeg

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The last pic above is the Chevy internals in the Chrysler case.

 

Removed rim, just drilled out the rivets.

 

image.jpeg.d04a1c458d23031d6233d731d8576f15.jpeg

 

Here it is with the Chrysler face, in the Chrysler case. Speedo portion only goes to 80 whereas the Chrysler 90. I will just swap them out along with better mileage wheels.

 

I think we have a fix, thanks Ben.

 

image.jpeg.000bb722bf7d09788437039c6ed2d176.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Got the Chevy speedo apart with no issues. Couple minor differences. This gear on the Chrysler (left) was staked to the brass washer while the Chevy (right) has a separate aluminum plate. I see no functional difference.

 

image.jpeg.6f3edd861a90efaa3a1ee6c068ec16f3.jpeg  

 

 The MPH wheels are  the same except for the numbering. The 90 MPH one is the Chrysler and has been cleaned with rubbing alcohol with a Q-tip.

 

image.jpeg.fb94143b696448e30f880788282d44e7.jpeg

 

image.jpeg.4b5662d646275c711b6690538b9ce96d.jpeg

 

My wife's father was a watch maker so some of his tools really came in handy, particularly the stem puller (yellow knob.)

 

The small brushes I got at an automotive paint store. Great to touch up lettering. All the metal parts are in the Ultrasonic Cleaner

 

image.jpeg.788ed079ffd2b7133fb45aa42f0c6c29.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by BlueDevil
Redundancy (see edit history)
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Here is the driven gear that the speedo cable drives. I soaked it in Evapo Rust and then UC cleaned it. 

 

Not much gear left on the original Chrysler one on the right

Speedo gear.jpg

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Moving on to the face. I put it in the UC with HD Simple Green which takes the paint off as well as cleaning it.

 

Sprayed it, now just need to paint the red pointer and it should be good to go.

72 speeedo face.jpg

72 speedo face painted.jpg

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Ok, significant difference . The short one is the Chrysler. I think the longer one is a better design 

IMG_2703.jpeg

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Another issue, the bolt hole on the MPH wheel is located in a different position. I will swap them out.

IMG_2704.jpeg

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Another issue, the bolt hole on the MPH wheel is located in a different position. I will swap them out.

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At the end of the day, if you replace the bezel face and case and aren’t worried about gearing, the Chevy is a direct replacement.

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A couple of nuances if you take the whole thing apart.

 

The numbered wheels come in 2 types, one with a trip advance mechanism to rotate the next number like the one on the right. The trip mechanism is at 2 o'clock.

 

The wheel on the left is without the trip and when the wheels are assembled it is the the final wheel going from right to left as it doesn't need to advance another wheel

 

The little wheels are the trip cogs and they have 2 sides. On one side (the cog on the right) there are 3 raised raised teeth. When assembling, that side goes to the right as you look at the gauge between the wheels. The backside doesn't have them. 

72 speedo parts.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I stopped in Who's Hobby Shop in Rapid City, SD.

 

What a place. I found these small enamel paints that are available in multiple colors and shades and the micro brushes to touch up things.

 

 

 

Modelpaint.jpg.13e57320c321dff62257580b1eff24cb.jpg

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On 6/6/2024 at 3:06 PM, BlueDevil said:

Well, bad news. I took the Speedo apart and was met with a disaster. The internal framework is made from POTMETAL!!!

The rattling noise was pieces of pot metal.

 

Amazing how much that stuff can distort.

 

I will have to ponder this for awhile.

IMG_2626.jpeg


Is there enough left that it could be 3D scanned and printed?  
 

Edit, sorry, somehow missed the following pages of your post.   
 

72 mph would be quite a ride.

Edited by Angelfish (see edit history)
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Angelfish,

 

I thought about that, but it was destroyed. I thought about making the box out of flat aluminum, but buying a Chevy is a lot easier

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On to the windshield posts.

 

Ok, does this bolt go in that part of the w/s post and is there something else, like rubber that goes with it?

72 ws screw.jpg

72 wspost.jpg

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I was looking in the pre '34 parts book, the thick one, and in the area of roadster cowl it lists 22 screws. 

 

That kind of makes sense as the holes in the cowl seem awful random and deep.

 

Also it would really be a PITA to try to put bifurcated rivets and would slow down production, I would think

72 cowl lacing.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I opted for #6 slotted, oval stainless steel sheet metal screws and used a #4 speed nut on the inside. It sucked the screw head into the indention and didn't mess up the hole co I could replace with rivets if I want to.

72 cowl screw.jpeg

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I got the running boards. Great story. the member in PA was going to the Buick National Meet in Ohio.

He handed them off to a local AACA member and he brought them to his work that is 3 miles from my house.

 

They are off a 29 75, but look like they can be made to workas the overall length and widths seem the same. The issues are brackets and hole placement which I think will be straight forward.72runningboardmounts.jpeg.c77b63be3e16c228982addd2a9aecd95.jpeg

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On 7/9/2024 at 12:46 AM, BlueDevil said:

I stopped in Who's Hobby Shop in Rapid City, SD.

 

What a place. I found these small enamel paints that are available in multiple colors and shades and the micro brushes to touch up things.

 

 

 

Modelpaint.jpg.13e57320c321dff62257580b1eff24cb.jpg

FYI those Humbrol enamels are excellent paints. They can be brushed on or if preferable, sprayed using an airbrush. Can also be thinned for spraying using either enamel thinners, turpentine or my go to choice, old school automotive single pac lacquer thinners. 
 

From what I see in the photo you are using clear, but if wanting to use colours, best to apply an automotive primer first.


Just my two bobs worth,

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

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  • 1 month later...

I opted for Blockley Tires (UK) heavy duty racing tubes. The ones they recommend for Paris to Peking.

 

Top tube is the Blockley and is super heavy duty. It weighs 8.5 pounds vs the 2.5 pounds for the standard one.

 

Might be a little tough to fit, but we will see how it goes.

racing tube.jpeg

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