BlueDevil Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 I am thinking 30-31 Model A guts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 I am last 30-31 Model A as a potential Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Yeah perhaps A Ford might be an option or maybe if you can find a half decent 75 one might be the go, just had a look on the one I removed from a 75 wreck that I obtained, it has sat outside for decades and if a previous person hadn’t attacked it with a screw driver the pot metal frame would have been fine. Funny how some survive no problems then others disintegrate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 Ben, Would yo be willing to part with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 I would be but the outer metal mounting frame is bent from some one previous and they have busted the bottom rivet out of the pot metal. So in saying all that if we are going to send something half way round the world it would make sense to find a better one. Have you tried Jay yet if he has one otherwise I will have a look to see if I have a better one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 I took it apart and it fell to pieces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 Rod P, Good thought but there are no numbers or writings on it anywhere. I am looking for a replacement. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 1 hour ago, BlueDevil said: Rod P, Good thought but there are no numbers or writings on it anywhere. I am looking for a replacement. Thanks Have look on the back of the bowl it sits in, I think one of mine at least AC stamped on it. I will check later and take some photos. Also internals very similar to 27 Chev. Cheers Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 So I had a bit of a look in the shed and here is what I found. The first photo is the back of a 75 Speedo, showing it was made by the AC spark plug co, sorry no model no etc. Now I had bit more of a look through my collection (loose term for junk pile) and discovered 1927 Chev uses the same pot metal core but a different mounting ring is attached. Below photo shows Chev on the left and Chrysler on the right I believe 28 Chev’s also use the same core. It maybe a pain to change the outer mounting ring from the pot metal core but this may open up some options to finding a donor speedometer. This last photo shows the back of the core I posted here yesterday and shows the busted rivet mount and why I think there should be better options out there besides this one. Anyway hope this helps Cheers Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 Ok, Ben, I took your lead and got a '28 Chevy speedo. Chrysler on the left, Chevy on right Here are the internals of the Chevy. Virtually identical and in much better shape. I am worried about gearing being the same but I have a good set in the crumbled Chrysler 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 The last pic above is the Chevy internals in the Chrysler case. Removed rim, just drilled out the rivets. Here it is with the Chrysler face, in the Chrysler case. Speedo portion only goes to 80 whereas the Chrysler 90. I will just swap them out along with better mileage wheels. I think we have a fix, thanks Ben. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 15 Author Share Posted June 15 Starting Chevy Speedo 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 16 Share Posted June 16 Great work hope it all works well in the end and hopefully a bit quicker and maybe more economical then finding a good Chrysler one 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 (edited) Got the Chevy speedo apart with no issues. Couple minor differences. This gear on the Chrysler (left) was staked to the brass washer while the Chevy (right) has a separate aluminum plate. I see no functional difference. The MPH wheels are the same except for the numbering. The 90 MPH one is the Chrysler and has been cleaned with rubbing alcohol with a Q-tip. My wife's father was a watch maker so some of his tools really came in handy, particularly the stem puller (yellow knob.) The small brushes I got at an automotive paint store. Great to touch up lettering. All the metal parts are in the Ultrasonic Cleaner Edited June 23 by BlueDevil Redundancy (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Here is the driven gear that the speedo cable drives. I soaked it in Evapo Rust and then UC cleaned it. Not much gear left on the original Chrysler one on the right 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Moving on to the face. I put it in the UC with HD Simple Green which takes the paint off as well as cleaning it. Sprayed it, now just need to paint the red pointer and it should be good to go. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Ok, significant difference . The short one is the Chrysler. I think the longer one is a better design Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Another issue, the bolt hole on the MPH wheel is located in a different position. I will swap them out. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintageben Posted June 24 Share Posted June 24 Wow lots of work needed to be done to swap everything out but I guess what you had to start with was going to be a big job either way. Great work good to see the progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 Another issue, the bolt hole on the MPH wheel is located in a different position. I will swap them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 26 Author Share Posted June 26 At the end of the day, if you replace the bezel face and case and aren’t worried about gearing, the Chevy is a direct replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted June 27 Author Share Posted June 27 A couple of nuances if you take the whole thing apart. The numbered wheels come in 2 types, one with a trip advance mechanism to rotate the next number like the one on the right. The trip mechanism is at 2 o'clock. The wheel on the left is without the trip and when the wheels are assembled it is the the final wheel going from right to left as it doesn't need to advance another wheel The little wheels are the trip cogs and they have 2 sides. On one side (the cog on the right) there are 3 raised raised teeth. When assembling, that side goes to the right as you look at the gauge between the wheels. The backside doesn't have them. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 I stopped in Who's Hobby Shop in Rapid City, SD. What a place. I found these small enamel paints that are available in multiple colors and shades and the micro brushes to touch up things. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 (edited) On 6/6/2024 at 3:06 PM, BlueDevil said: Well, bad news. I took the Speedo apart and was met with a disaster. The internal framework is made from POTMETAL!!! The rattling noise was pieces of pot metal. Amazing how much that stuff can distort. I will have to ponder this for awhile. Is there enough left that it could be 3D scanned and printed? Edit, sorry, somehow missed the following pages of your post. 72 mph would be quite a ride. Edited July 11 by Angelfish (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 Angelfish, I thought about that, but it was destroyed. I thought about making the box out of flat aluminum, but buying a Chevy is a lot easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 Thanks to Leo I got the radiator back together. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 11 Author Share Posted July 11 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 On to the windshield posts. Ok, does this bolt go in that part of the w/s post and is there something else, like rubber that goes with it? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 I was looking in the pre '34 parts book, the thick one, and in the area of roadster cowl it lists 22 screws. That kind of makes sense as the holes in the cowl seem awful random and deep. Also it would really be a PITA to try to put bifurcated rivets and would slow down production, I would think 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 28 Author Share Posted July 28 I opted for #6 slotted, oval stainless steel sheet metal screws and used a #4 speed nut on the inside. It sucked the screw head into the indention and didn't mess up the hole co I could replace with rivets if I want to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 28 Author Share Posted July 28 The factory holes were anything but in line. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted July 28 Author Share Posted July 28 I got the running boards. Great story. the member in PA was going to the Buick National Meet in Ohio. He handed them off to a local AACA member and he brought them to his work that is 3 miles from my house. They are off a 29 75, but look like they can be made to workas the overall length and widths seem the same. The issues are brackets and hole placement which I think will be straight forward. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 On 7/9/2024 at 12:46 AM, BlueDevil said: I stopped in Who's Hobby Shop in Rapid City, SD. What a place. I found these small enamel paints that are available in multiple colors and shades and the micro brushes to touch up things. FYI those Humbrol enamels are excellent paints. They can be brushed on or if preferable, sprayed using an airbrush. Can also be thinned for spraying using either enamel thinners, turpentine or my go to choice, old school automotive single pac lacquer thinners. From what I see in the photo you are using clear, but if wanting to use colours, best to apply an automotive primer first. Just my two bobs worth, Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Trial fit the rad today. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted August 4 Author Share Posted August 4 Had flood water in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueDevil Posted September 16 Author Share Posted September 16 I opted for Blockley Tires (UK) heavy duty racing tubes. The ones they recommend for Paris to Peking. Top tube is the Blockley and is super heavy duty. It weighs 8.5 pounds vs the 2.5 pounds for the standard one. Might be a little tough to fit, but we will see how it goes. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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