Want to buy 346 engine block.

[Streamline Smitten]

Starting a new post from my original one about the badly pitted engine block from my '41.

 

I am now on the hunt for a good block. I would of course prefer a '41. I am told that the '41-'47s are all the same, so I will consider one of those.

 

Please let me know if you have one or if you know someone that might.

[David Zitzmann]

Where are you located?  I have a 346 block that was not cracked. I would have to check the number to see what the year is though. I am in NY State.  

[Streamline Smitten]

David, thanks. I am in Ft. Worth, TX. 

 

Has the block been magnafluxed? If so, has the machine shop checked it over for any other kind of flaws?

 

What is the car serial number on it?

[David Zitzmann]

Oh that's a hike. The block came out of a 1940 LaSalle, but was from a Cadillac and is a 346.  It was not magnafluxed or anything and would need to be cleaned as well.

 

Dave

[sagefinds]

I have to tell you a quick story. I was reading the Wanted ads in Old Cars Weekly many years ago and a friend from Missouri had one wanting an NOS 1941 Cadillac army tank engine. He was always into classic Cadillacs and Packards and I thought what the heck does he want with a tank engine. So I ran into him at Chickasha and asked him. Here's what he said" I'm pretty good at rebuilding engines but not near as good as GM was at putting new ones together originally,it's going in my 41 Cadillac".I believe he did find one. I don't know if any are obtainable in this day and age but might be something to consider. 

 

Incidently I do have a very goodlooking 41-48 radiator if you might need one. PM me if interested.

[Streamline Smitten]

Thanks for the info. 

 

I know of the tank engines, supposedly after the war there were a lot of surplus ones available. But I would like to stick with a passenger car version.

[David Zitzmann]

The tank engines had the bell housing pins in a different location, at least on some. We rebuilt one for a 36 75 and they needed yo be relocated to alighn with bell housing correctly.

[Stude Light]

Jim,

It sounds like you've given up on your pitted block.

 

Personally, I would give the decks a slight mill to flatten them out along with a light mill on the top where the intake and exhaust ports are as the exhaust crossover tends to erode, then try a grind on the valve seats. A few pits on the seat will not hurt anything as long as they are not in the middle of your final lapping. It that doesn't work, there have been many of these engines that have had new valve seats installed (and many sleeved) mostly because they were severely overheated at some point. Also, don't be concerned about setting up the valve lengths....you just grind the ends (and chamfer) to the middle of lifter travel. I know everyone likes to quote this 3.000" valve distance to the cam but that is just a quick and dirty method to get you close. A good machine shop will measure lifter travel and set the valve lengths to center of travel which is the correct way to do it. I have a really good summary of rebuilding a Cadillac Flathead. I you want a copy, just PM me with an email and I'll forward it. These engines have a few quirks but there is no special rocket science to them.

Scott 

[automaschinewerks]

how did you ever make out with your block with the bad seat?

terry

[Streamline Smitten]

Terry, thanks for asking.  I ended up buying a rebuilt 1948 346 and installed it. But I am eventually going to get new valve seats in the old block to replace the two bad ones and then rebuild the engine. I would eventually like to get it back to a "numbers matching" car.