David Zitzmann

The rod bearings are the same, but I am pretty sure the mains are different. I would have to look in the master parts book. They made changes with the engines from 36 to 38. 36 346 engine mounts are different and gen mount is different. Other bits too. 37 they put the 322 in the LaSalle and the rear main I could swear was different then 38 and up. Maybe I am wrong.

Hi Wayne, I would be interested in the distributor. I have a spare, but the lobe is beyond useful. Dave

37 has a long tailshaft. Looks just like the column shift, but without the shifter bits on the side. The inner parts are not the same. The mainshaft is about 20 inches long. If this was from a 37 it was modified. Could it be from a buick?

Speaking of material does anyone still have the taupe mohair material? Hirsch doesn't. I have not tried Jenkins yet.

Hi, I mean 1933. It had the original red rubber tubes with the nickel stems and dust covers and the US Royal tires. When I got the car it had wire wheels on it but the original owner kept the art wheels and hub caps. I think he may have not been able to buy new tires and found a set of wires with good tires. Thank God he kept the original wheels:-) Form what I can determine they were still using nickel dust covers in 1933. the ones I have cam of the original rimes and are 7/8 nut and are not the same that coker etc sells. Regards Dave

Looking for two rim washers. The car came with most of the bits still on the wheels with the us royal tires. Size in in pictures.

One other thing to consider is 37 LaSalle engine main bearings are diffetent and not sure they are available, newly reproduced. It is kind of an oddball. The heads have no ridges and I think the sn of the engine is stamped behing the distributor. The framE sn will have letters. I think starting with 2B. But the last four digits will be the same last four digits of the engine SN. The 36 346 is another oddball.

Got them both all apart. Had to get a good light and better glasses. The pin/spring clip was a little offset from the hole. Had to grind off a bit of the key stock to slide the cover off to get to the spring the holds the middle part in. No issue just mig welded the tip back and filed them. Had to make new pins in the back of the barrel too. Off to chrome now:-) Thanks folks Dave

Along with what jdome stated the check valves and their gaskets in the fuel pump have to be good also.

After market vintage Motorola Golden Voice Radio came out of a 1937 LaSalle. When I got the car the previous owner said the vibrator needed to be replaced. Has a speaker, big round one, that came with it, but is not pictured. Make me an offer. I have no cars that it will go in.

It isn't the size of the engine. It is the current draw from the starter. If everything is brady new with proper gauge wire and clean I don't see there being a problem, but over time with dirty, lose, connections that causes resistance which equals heat and unhappy car owner. Just my opinion:-)

And the knife ones too. I saw a 68 caddy smoking from one of those it got so hot. I only use the heavy duty ones like others have mentioned.

No, that would be too easy:-) i found a ilco key that turns it, but i cant find the release pi through the hole in the case. I did a search and nothing of the like came back. I just need to know what the inside pin location looks like. Not into drill holes. Has to be there.

Here are two pics. Thanks. Not like GM at all:-) And a YALE key seems to be the one.

Trying to get the cylinder out of the handle so a key can be made. I picked it so that it turns, but I don't see a release pin any where? How do you get the cylinder out? Anyone ever done this? Any help appreciated. Regards, Dave

Came up with this as a solution. Took it to the lathe🙂

I didnt see, read, that part. I know what you mean. Sorry

Just a thought... on 30s Cadillac engines you put the rod up from the bottom then put the piston on, push wrist pin through, locks, then push in in from top down to journal.

I may file it down a bit, but the flare is what keeps the flange from sliding over. That and double up the gasket. It needs to be even and cannot tighten to much or the ears will break off the manifold. The original one had the flange welded in place with a flat mating suface. Thanks for the info all. Dave

I received a new exhaust system today and the header pipe is flanged. The one I took off does not and just had a flat gasket. Which is correct? If flanged it seems the gasket must be thicker?

Thanks everyone! The car has 30k on it and I wanted to put a new belt on it. This is what started it all. For now, just to get it running, i put it back together with a felt seal. I am not running driving it yet so not worried, but will for sure make the sealed bearing application. Dave

Good idea! Thanks

Here is a picture of what I am asking about. I would think there was a felt seal in there?

Does the fan hub shaft have any type of seal on it? I tookine apart and there was nothing there, but it looks like there should be. If needed I can take a picture later and post.

No idea what they are worth. Maybe 15 or 20 with shipping? Dave