1953 Chrysler New Yorker Fluid torque transmission wiring

[Fred Schmitt]

I have a 1953 Chrysler new yorker with a 331 hemi and fluid torque transmission.   The ignition, and starter have been changed to 12 volt.  Looks like the wiring from the 2 solenoids mounted on the passenger side of the transmission goes to a block that has wires going to the carburetor.   There is no power to any of it.  According to the wiring diagrams,  it looks like the power originally came from the wires that powered the coil.  I was looking to see if anyone is familiar with this.  Any help would be appreciated. 

[Bloo]

Fluid torque drive should be coupled to an M6 semi-automatic transmission I believe. The M6 is the important part here, not the fluid torque drive. To the best of my knowledge, nobody has ever been able to get one of those working as intended on a 12v negative ground system. You might be the first. Good luck, and welcome to the forum!

 

Edited June 11, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[61polara]

Review this post.  It will explain most of what you are asking.  Power is supplied by the ignition switch and is taken off the terminal on the coil from the switch.  The wiring to the other terminal of the coil is to ground out the coil to permit the transmission to downshift.  Converting these systems to 12v is not a good idea as stated in this post as well.  The electrical components were never made in 12v as Chrysler discontinued this transmission before they converted to 12v.  Hopefully, whoever did the conversion to 12v installed voltage reducers at all the power source points to the system and did not fry some of the next to impossible to find electrical components.  

 

 

[Fred Schmitt]

Thanks for responding!  I found the 6 volts from the ignition sw.  I now have 6 volts at the solenoid.  I took it out and test drove it in low.  It seemed to shift from 1st to 2nd.  When I was almost stopped it went into 1st.  I think I solved the mystery.   Learning more each day.  The 331 hemi does a great job.  Wish the cars of today were as solid as this one is.  

[Rusty_OToole]

For normal driving you start off in High, and lift off the gas at 14MPH so it shifts up. You can shift into gear and release the clutch completely while at a stand still then drive off like an automatic. This is the best way, the clutch is very small and will not stand much slipping. If you try to drive it like a standard trans you can wear out the clutch.

 

Go by the wiring diagram and be sure you have a 6 volt power source, or use some kind of resistor or zener diode to reduce the 12V to the trans control system. There are no 12V ones because this system was discontinued before they went to 12V. Even the 6V parts are getting scarce so you don't want to burn them out.

[Old Guy John]

Hi read Your post. Have like car similar to yours The brain child I bought it from put 12v battery in it - ground. Had generator converted to 12v with regulator. Ans a bunch of other stuff. Drove it home 150 miles  with the 12v system trans trans shifted ok. Had car for three years. took out yesterday no automatic shift to 2nd or fourth. Checking voltages at circuit breaker and resistor block mounted by coil. so far that's looks good. Will continue to check trans,soleniod,govener  and interrupter switch. All in all put a ballast resistor from your 12v ignition lead to coil. The 12v going to burn out the points. All 12v cars with points have that ballast resistor. If you want I can keep you posted about trans diagnoses 

[c49er]

Sitting a long time.

Does the trans leak?

Low fluid...no upshift.

 

[Old Guy John]

It your car shifting ok now?