Fire Extinguisher 1A10BC vs. 10BC?

[Belvedere]

     Recently I read an AACA FaceBook post concerning indignant owners when asked to see the fire extinguisher on the showfield.  The topic evolved into a discussion about which is better, ABC or just BC.  A while back, AACA updated the BC required extinguisher to ABC, with regards to wood-bodied vehicles throughout the showfield.  Later, I think it was reverted back to the required BC, not sure.  I still carry the 1A10BC in my vehicles.  The judging sheets only state a UL approved extinguisher is required.  So what is AACA's current requirement?

 

    Also, can we have a discussion here as to which is better?  The FB poster (one of our forum members) went on to say that the ABC extinguisher contains acid, and will destroy a car (if the fire doesn't).  It has led me to question my choice of extinguisher. 

[CChinn]

Although not UL tested/approved, the Element fire extinguisher may be the best of them all. I learned about the extinguisher in a thread on this forum last year. Have them in my collector cars and in my kitchen. But still use the UL extinguisher at AACA shows. Not sure if the company will go through the UL approval process

Edited May 23, 2023 by CChinn (see edit history)

[alsancle]

1 hour ago, CChinn said:

Although not UL tested/approved, the Element fire extinguisher may be the best of them all. I learned about the extinguisher in a thread on this forum last year. Have them in my collector cars and in my kitchen. But still use the UL extinguisher at AACA shows. Not sure if the company will go through the UL approval process

Ed swears by the "Element" and I'm carrying them in my cars now.   They are pricey.   Here is a thread:

 

 

[Bloo]

4 hours ago, Belvedere said:

Also, can we have a discussion here as to which is better?  The FB poster (one of our forum members) went on to say that the ABC extinguisher contains acid, and will destroy a car (if the fire doesn't).  It has led me to question my choice of extinguisher.

As far as I know it's alkaline, not acid, but the rest is spot on. It is quite a lot like baking soda. I'm not sure ABC vs BC is going to tell you what you need to know if you care about this. A, B, and C are types of fires an extinguisher is rated for, not the chemical inside. The short version of this is that almost all modern low cost fire extinguishers are full of an alkaline substance called "dry chemical" which is caustic and abrasive. It does a LOT of damage. It is preferable to not putting out the fire, I'll give it that.

 

Historically, Halon was what you wanted. It puts out most types of car fires without causing additional damage from the fire extinguisher. It is a CFC, and new production is banned. You can still buy new Halon extinguishers made from recycled Halon. You can of course buy used ones. Halon has always been expensive, and the ban on new production makes it more so. It is effectively a refrigerant, and I won't go into why, but don't believe the gauge. Weigh the bottle and compare to the label. These are still used in airplanes. There is also a modern replacement for Halon called Halotron. As I understand it, these can work just as well but need the bottles need to be sized larger for the same firefighting effect. I am carrying a Halon extinguisher and an Element.

 

I have no idea what AACA's current requirement is.

 

Edited May 23, 2023 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Peter J.Heizmann]

This topic has been discussed at length over the years.  Check out this info for many various discussions:

 

Showing results for 'Fire Extinguishers' in content posted in General Discussion. - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

[Andy J]

As a retired fireman,(39 years experience) I have vast experience servicing,repairing and using portable extinguishers. My personal preference for automotive use would be the ABC extinguisher. It is true the ABC and BC make a sizable mess when used and the extinguishing agent can be corrosive if left on the surfaces or components of the vehicle for an extended length of time. I think this would be unlikely if you care about your car.

 

Bloo is correct about Halon being the best,provided that you can find a Halon extinguisher.A CO2 extinguisher doesn't leave any residue either,but their sizes really don't permit them to be used in an automobile. Wall mounted in a shop would be fine for CO2. I do not know anything about the Element extinguisher.

 

The most important thing about any extinguisher is knowing how to use it properly and make to certain that it is going to work when you need it.Extinguishers need to be checked regularly. Here in the deep south where I live,dirt dauber wasps commonly get into extinguisher hoses and nozzles and stop them up. The powder in ABC and BC extinguishers will get caked up and settle into a compacted mass from vibration and will need to be shaken up periodically to loosen and "fluff" up the powder. This can be done with a few raps with a rubber hammer.

 

Another thing to consider is if your car has any magnesium that can be ignited,it may be wise to look at a Class D extinguisher for flammable metals. An ABC or BC cannot be counted on to extinguish burning metal.Again,it is most important to learn how to use the thing properly.Improper use will be ineffective,at best.YMMV