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Leaking brass valves


wac

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Just beginning to type as old car fan posted. Same advice.

Disassemble, inspect. If not too badly worn or corroded, very fine abrasive paste. Very fine valve seating compound is what I used several times. "Time Saver" is a brand I have never used myself, but it is highly recommended by many!

Work it slowly, back and forth, then around, back and forth, then around. Working all areas as evenly as you can! (In many cases, the handle will limit some amount of area?)

Polished areas will become dull on the surface, and can tell you when coverage and fit are getting close to right.

Follow up with an even finer abrasive. I have sometimes used good old fashion abrasive tooth paste!

 

For gasoline shutoff valves, I usually assemble with a small amount of old fashion hand soap (wet). It lubricates, and the right kinds of soap resist gasoline acting as a fluid sealant.

 

The above is for brass to brass or cast iron tapered valves. If you have a different type valve? More information of the specific type of valve will be needed.

Edited by wayne sheldon
I hate leaving typos! (see edit history)
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I just had to deal with that today. Yesterday on Good Friday got Beulah out from her storage garage nap from February 2nd. All is well and she started imediately. I checked the fuel level after I pulled her out into the sun and drover her the half mile to our home garage. When I shut her down on Feb,2nd it showed 6 3/4 gallons on the gagestick I made. At home the gagestick showed 5 1/2 gallons. So about a gallon of evaporation in 2 months.

 One thing to attend to before I drove her farther I noticed under the vacuum tank shut off valve there was wrinkled paint on the sill from fuel dripping from the the valve packing. Cleaned all and repacked the valve stem including new fuel line sections. One can see the red-oxide primer spot and on the left outside edge of the sill where there is more wrinkling. I just love modern fuels.....

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Edited by dibarlaw (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

        Valve grinding compound is too coarse for the valves on such things as an oxy acetylene torch or carburetor needle and seat.  A slurry of abrasive cleaner such as Ajax or Comet works well.

     There's no way to control where the lapping abrasive is and isn't so it's important to frequently redistribute the abrasive no matter what it is that's being lapped.

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