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1925 (26 mdl year) G70 2 Door Coach HEAD STUDS & Generator Shaft Coupling- Require Advice /Info


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Folks  -  I Have 2 issues that I need some advice on 2 issues.

1.   The Engine Head Studs - 218 Cu.Inch   I have everything ready to lift engine out. I have a Load leveler for the engine hoist. 

the questions are  Do I need to remove the head studs in the block and use Gr 8 bolts in the holes where I intend to attach the 

two lifting brackets. The stud height is 2.5 "   I have only ever pulled engines that had Head Bolts not studs. There  are 3 rows  

of 7 studs.  I was planning on using very back corner stud/or bolt and very front opposite corner Stud/ or Bolt.  There is .875" of 

threads on the studs.  Advice and or comments please.  

2.  Generator Shaft Coupling - No point in going into alot of info on how all 6 pcs of the spring steel laminations of the coupling 

that slide into the Generator shaft got broken off-  Other than they worked probably as designed - like a sheer pin - to protect

the gen. shaft from damage and keeping it from braking off ( The only incriminating info im telling is yes Im the idiot that did it

and the engine was not even running. I hand cranked it over- Obviously more to the that story - BIG Lesson Learned the hard

way) I have NO prewar engine experience. SO  I have whats left of the 5 or six shattered flat spring steel pieces that go into the boss end of the coupling (cplg) head. There is no damage to the cplg head, or the round little pin that holds the spring steel laminations in the cplg, Generator shaft is fine. Just my Pride and the spring stl laminations were damaged.  I need the length 

of the spring stl laminations. I have the width, thickness, number of pieces, and that each of the 4 corners of the laminations

have a 45 deg chamfer clipped off each corner. Also any info on the actual material specs would be appreciated. I am Assuming

it it is some grade of thin spring steel. 

 

Thanks All for several years of  info provided. Im getting close and the end is in sight to the day she fires up and comes out of the garage under its own power.  Its close to 7 years on jack stands and many many hours on creepers.  Thanks, Cricket kj26

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Cricket,

 The Chrysler 6 is a heavy motor, I don't know if I would risk lifting it on a couple of head studs. I took the motor out on my G70 using heavy straps tied around the front under the crank pulley and at the rear around the bell housing.

 I also remembered to look at the Genny coupling, and without stripping it out of the driven gear, it has 5 laminations that protrude one inch from the coupling , hope that helps

regards 

Viv.

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It has been my experience that heads studs gunk up to the head and the head  can be a lot harder to remove the head than first thought.  I would soak all the studs  with WD-40 a couple times .  Then use a screw drive to drive between the head and block if it does not come free.  Slow and Easy is the word. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for the info Viv, Leomara, and Feeney.  I ended up using a load leveler very similar to the one Leomara  posted photo of- it had the 4 attachment chains

with L brackets that went on the studs.  Engine came out easily once I got the transmission broken loose from the guide pins.  Apologies on late reply - Got kicked off the 

forum for 30 days for a Political rant on Electric cars. Viv thanks for the info on the Gen coupling.  Head came off fairly easy. Getting the trans loose, after all the linkages 

were off was the the hard part.  Thanks, Cricket 

 

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