ignition swith question

[fhr069]

i am new to owning old cars and have a question. On the ignition swith there are 3 positions; "off", "ON", :LOCKED". To start the car the switch has to be in the "ON" position . the "start" circuit can be ingaged and the motor will turn over and start. What is the "locked"position for? when the engine is running and you move the key to "lOCKED" , the motor will quit running.is this normal? ANy help you have would be appretiated <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

[56Roadmaster]

If you talking about like the '56 the lock postion locks the shift and prevents ignition from being turned back on with out key. In the on position you can pull the key out and leave it out and turn car on or off but prevents going to lock presumably to help with groceries before days of lawsuits. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" />

[NTX5467]

All GM cars were like that back then. You put the key into the ignition switch to get it out of "lock" position and then could operate the car without a key until you put it back into "lock" position. Life was much simpler then and car thefts were not that prevalent in small town America back then. If you wanted the extra security, you used the "lock" position all of the time. Where the key was inserted had a slot with raised edges to facilitate operation without the key too. Other GM divisions used the ignition switch to also engage the starter while Buick continued to have the starter engaged with the accelerator pedal linkage.

This was more of a convenience issue for GM customers as Ford and Chrysler used regular ignition cylinders and switches that were recessed into the instrument panel (Fords on the left hand side of the steering wheel).

Somewhere about the time that "lock" was discontinued and keys were necessary all of the time, "Acc" probably appeared in GM cars.

Just some recollections . . .

NTX5467

[Matt Harwood]

Along those lines, my '41 Century has the same setup: LOCK ON OFF. I'm trying to get the ignition switch out of the dash so I can remove it, and learned that it has to be in LOCK and then you use a pin to remove the switch plate. However, since I never had to use my keys before, I found that my keys are TOO WORN to move the cylinder to LOCK so I can remove it.

Any suggestions? I don't want to tear it up and have to replace everything.

Thanks!

[56Roadmaster]

If you have the key number have a new one cut, If not the number should be on the trunk or door lock cylinder or extension. There are some hardware stores that can cut a new key from this number. I had to do this on two of my '56's

the third '56 had the key (luckily) taped to a heater hose under the hood from years ago!

[NTX5467]

Other than searching for codes, a good locksmith or GM parts person that is familiar with reading the "cuts" of the key can duplicate the key that way instead of just copying it on a duplicating cutter (new blank, worn out cuts). I also found that many of the later model GM blanks have the same configuration (other than the key head itself) as the earlier keys do, just that the earlier

ones are thicker (width wise). The later blanks will work too, just be a little loose due to the thinner width. If you can find someone that has the earlier blanks,that is good too, but I'd find that GM parts person that knew how to cut keys with the hand cutter and get them to do some of the later blanks first before spending more money on the correct earlier blanks--this way, you have a good sample to deal with and to duplicate off of.

Reading the cuts would be the better way out as finding a correct code book to get the cuts for the code out of for that vintage vehicle might be worse than finding the golden needle in the haystack. Unless the locksmith has them, the only other place they might exist is at the dealership level. Unless someone at the dealership tried to save those code books or keep them archived, they were probably archived to the dump. If you have any doubts about the cuts, the '68 Buick Chassis Manual details how the depths are for the keys just as many of the later GM service manuals do. No rocket science, just knowing what you're looking at.

Also, the same hand cutter that does the '80s keys will also work on the earlier blanks too. You don't have to have that earlier style circular contraption of old. I discovered this when cutting keys for a customer with a '55 or so Chevy that used the earlier Briggs/Stratton key blanks. By the same token, once the cuts are accurate, they can also be done on one of the newer computerized key cutters, but I personally prefer the earlier hand cutters.

Just some thoughts . . .

NTX5467

[Dave@Moon]

Especially back then, there were only a limited number of different implemented key cuts for a given switch type. My father once found an old Rambler key lying on the ground in a parking lot (big "R" on the head) that fit the ignition of our '69 AMC Ambassador (completely different head). You might try comparing your key with others of similar age for the same switch (say at the next chapter meeting) to see if any of them look like they could be your original cut and try them. It couldn't hurt! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />