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Light 6 parts available


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I have a number of mechanical parts available.  All used.  Complete engine (bare block and parts), clutch, transmission, front axle steering gear and springs.  Rear springs, rear brake band assemblies, carb, manifold, 2 cylinder heads.  Complete headlight buckets with lenses, vacuum fuel pump and parts.  Horn, pedal assembly, small misc. parts, large round splash guard that went below the clutch.  1 single bar spring bumper (might be aftermarket).  Located in Indianapolis, IN.  Make offer.  Don't really want to ship.  

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On 3/24/2022 at 10:51 AM, J Tryloff said:

Would you happen to have a gas cap for this car? I can't send direct messages yet, but my email is jtryloff@gmail.com

Just an FYI - the Light Six and Big/Special Six have different diameter fuel caps

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Hello, I'm might be interested in your vacuum fuel pump and i'm also looking for all gauges of the dashboard in order to restore our Light Six.

Could you please send me some pictures with prices ? I'm in France but can pay using Paypal if you are kind enougth to study the shipping to France.

Many thanks in advance, Laurent

IMG_20201021_145114.jpg

IMG_20201021_145137.jpg

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On 2/13/2023 at 4:34 AM, Laurent France said:

Hello, I'm might be interested in your vacuum fuel pump and i'm also looking for all gauges of the dashboard in order to restore our Light Six.

Could you please send me some pictures with prices ? I'm in France but can pay using Paypal if you are kind enougth to study the shipping to France.

Many thanks in advance, Laurent

IMG_20201021_145114.jpg

IMG_20201021_145137.jpg

With no reverse curve on the rear fenders, having a cowl vent (with a Special/Big Six control) and body mounted cowl lights, it looks like a late 1921 or early 1922 Light Six. Export cars often had a mix of model and model year parts and came out of Walkerville, Canada rather from the high volume  assembly line in South Bend.

 

Here is a photo of what the original dashboard and gauges would look like. 1920-1921 dashboards were done in a Mahogany finish and 1922 - 1924 were finished in a straight grained walnut.

Dashboard.jpg.8076de96d1865ed27a527018c2231688.jpg

Lighting Switch Assembly p/n:

45227 (Remy, distributor w/Eagle Lock)

45477 (Remy, distributor w/ Yale lock)

44898 (distributor prior to vehicle serial number 1,045,438)

45228 (Remy, magneto w/Eagle lock)

44899 (magneto prior to vehicle serial number 1,045,438)

Ammeter Gauge p/n:

43999

Dash Light p/n:

39376

Oil Pressure Gauge p/n:

43847

Speedometer

Speedometers were supplied directly from Stewart (the manufacturer) so Studebaker did not create their own part number

By that way, your steering wheel controls should be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise (it should be at 3:00, not 6:00).

 

Let me know if you have any questions?

Scott

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey @Stude Light,

 

Sorry to post here. I can't send private messages yet.

 

I recently acquired a 1924 Light Six.

 

However, my dash looks different than yours. One of the differences is metal dashboard instead of walnut or mahogany. Do you have any photos of what the walnut dash looked like?

 

Also, a few more amateur questions:

  • Those part numbers...can they still be found or purchased anywhere?
  • Any advice for restoring the gauges and metal to look as nice as yours?
  • My Light Six has a clock (photo attached). I have no idea how it works. Any tips?

IMG_2587.JPG

IMG_2623.JPG

IMG_2622.JPG

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1 hour ago, 1924lightsix said:

One of the differences is metal dashboard instead of walnut or mahogany. Do you have any photos of what the walnut dash looked like?

 

Also, a few more amateur questions:

  • Those part numbers...can they still be found or purchased anywhere?
  • Any advice for restoring the gauges and metal to look as nice as yours?
  • My Light Six has a clock (photo attached). I have no idea how it works. Any tips?

The original dashboards are made from a 3/4" thick piece of wood (southern yellow pine perhaps?) with a metal face formed over it. The metal face was then painted to look like wood with a woodgrain pattern. You may ask why they didn't just use a piece of mahogany or walnut? I believe the answer is that the dashboard provides a cross-body structural support that triangulates the body panel below the windshield to provide a much stiffer structure. Having the screws go through the metal face versus just wood is much stronger. I used a company out of Pennsylvania that provides that woodgrain application service. The pattern was based on an original Light Six with a rusty dashboard that still showed the wood grain pattern when you wet down the dash with water. The picture I posted of mine is what the walnut dash would have looked like new. I can take a better photo to try to avoid the glare when I get a chance.

 

The part numbers really serve little purpose unless someone happens to have some NOS parts in a box. There are gauge restoration shops that will do the work. My gauge faces are original but I re-plated the bezels with copper, then nickel to get the original look. I disassembled the gauge bezels and just lightly cleaned the gauge face. I used the plating kits that Caswell Plating sells. Below are a couple of photos of the copper plate and process. Most all the work is in the polishing process.

20150719_110044.jpg.ea3c306a053a7412a3d53e20db8268ba.jpgCopperplatingcontrollevers.jpg.14b602c254d7b9118926787c53c50f5c.jpg

 

The clock using a spring. It is wound by the little knob which is pulled out to set the time. It is rare to have one that works without having it restored by someone that specializes in that.

 

I would suggest you start your own thread for your car.

Scott

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