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Me and My '50 Super


roadmaster_56
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I'm David in Santa Cruz CA, just finishing up the last bit of stripping on my '50 Super w/Dynaflow.  I was happy to find only a couple of  rust spots @ side molding and panel above exhaust pipe ....rockers are solid as is the frame.

 

It had been repainted incorrectly 2 tone ( silver over Olympic Blue when I got it.  My original plan was to return "Bucktooth" to it's original "suspected" color Calvert Blue.  "Suspected" because the build plate was missing when I purchased, but some spots revealed the original color. This is an early production '50 and may have gotten a '49 color.   However, I think I'm going to go with a slightly different shade of blue known as '48 Cadillac Horizon Blue.

 

Haven't found a local body shop yet, suggestions welcome for those on the CA central coast.  The interior was redone around 2000 and looks tired and dated.  Planning to redo it in the style of a 50-52 Roadmaster using stock fabrics/styles....Mandarin red for dash and window frames and red leather/grey stock fabric inserts.

 

I'd really like to add power steering, but haven't been able to find a complete system including column, pump, steering gear, etc. from a '52...any leads would be greatly appreciated.

 

Finally, my goal is to turn this into a "Super - Compound Carburetion" edition - a "Banker's Hotrod".  I have a complete compound set up on the shelf...just as well, as my current stock intake manifold has a crack in it....bless JB Weld.  Any tips/tricks on tuning a compound set up for a 263 would also be appreciated....especially the linkage set up.  I am also going to install a rear anti-sway bar from a '41 to handle the increased performance...guffaw...

 

Thanks for looking.

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Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Phil: Thank you, I do have a few projects in the pipeline....the 48 Chrysler is next for a paint job.  I've spent most of my time doing mechanical stuff to make both the Chrysler and Buick reliable and smooth running....just about there, next is a new Waldron's exhaust system for the '48, just sittin' on the floor waiting.

 

Em Tee:  I live in a college town...and several students have yelled their approval of the "naked and toothless" look as I drove through the campus....BTW, thanks for the link, my original intent was to post in "Me and My Buick", but for some reason I just couldn't find where to post, but now I'll continue the my progress there.

 

John D.  I was wondering if someone would ask me how long it took using the Eastwood Contour SCT. 

 

I started around the beginning of January, but I'd only work a couple of hours at a time and occasionally stop for weeks at a time when other things needed attention.  I'd estimate, if I did 4/hrs per day steadily,  I could be done completely in about 4 or 5 days...maybe less. 

 

Actually, removing the trim/garnish moldings was more difficult and time consuming than paint removal.  That thing is quite amazing the way it chews off paint and leaves the metal nicely finished.  Years ago, I stripped my '66 Riviera GS using aircraft stripper....I was young and dumb at the time...no mask...the stuff ruined my sinuses....took about 5 surgeries to correct the damage....will never ever use that stuff again.

 

Tip for the Contour: It has variable speeds, 1-5.....natural tendency is to got at it set to 5....not necessary.  I kept it around 3 -- in addition to being a little quieter (it's pretty noisy) it preserves the drums (about $40 a pop).  The downside is your back and shoulders will get a workout, as that sucker is heavy and powerful. Gotta wear a mask and use hearing protection  Get the narrow wheel and spacers for tight areas.... 

 

Guess what....just got a notice from Harbor Freight....they're producing a knock off....looks exactly the same....question is what kind of quality?

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Re: warping

That's a good point since probably the sheet metal is thicker on a 50's car, than a 70's. 

 

My sense is that warping would not happen because the stripping drum (60 grit) is very aggressive and removes layers pretty quickly....In my case, the metal never even got warm to the touch....unless the stripped area had been sitting in the sun.  You really don't need to apply excessive downward pressure ..... machine is already heavy... for which your back will attest .

 

Even spots I lingered on (depressions in the metal) didn't heat up very much...certainly not hot to the touch.  For the low spots, I'd tilt the machine slightly and hit the spot with the edge of the drum.

 

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  • MrEarl changed the title to Me and My '50 Super
  • 2 weeks later...

Just finishing up the restoration of my '50 Super steering wheel. 

 

It was badly cracked, especially on the top portion, presumably were the sun's rays hit it.  The paint was also badly checked which required sanding before "v-ing out" and filling in the cracks with JB SteelStick.

 

To make thinks easier, I chucked the wheel in my drill (which was locked into my vice) and spun the entire affair to speed sanding.....worked pretty well.  Kinda looked like an LP record on a turntable...remember those?   

 

It's taken me about 8 days or so, working a couple of hours at a time....maybe skipping a day once or twice.  Applied about 3 coats of Rust-oleum Filler Primer Spray because it's a high build paint that will hide imperfections.  Also used Bondo Red Glazing and Spot Putty along with 3M wet/dry sandpaper #220, #320, #400, #600, #800, #1000  + #1500.

 

I'll get a final coat of paint applied when the car and interior are painted.

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