Lex371 Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Where can I even buy an ignition switch for a 1990 reatta or like what part number should I look up? My reatta isn't starting it wasn't my starter, battery or security thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
handmedownreatta Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 rockauto is where id look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 On 11/1/2021 at 3:47 AM, Lex371 said: Where can I even buy an ignition switch for a 1990 reatta or like what part number should I look up? My reatta isn't starting it wasn't my starter, battery or security thing. Maybe someone said it, but the electrical connections on our cars was.. "special". A reverse-grounded car presents "negative" consequences, some outside the usual experience. When mine wouldn't start once, I went through every connection I could find, disassembled it and sanded everything and put some conductive electrical goo chemistry on them all junctions. It worked, but I never learned where the problem was, instead all my connections were sweet so it is good piece of mind. There's probably some procedure in some manual for trouble-shooting the no-start situ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex371 Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 Im not very mechanically inclined could you tell me what to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 On 11/5/2021 at 6:32 PM, Lex371 said: Im not very mechanically inclined could you tell me what to do? Probably not but if you are electrically inclined, you might consider to crawl under there and jump the solenoid terminals, and see if the starter engages and cranks the engine over. If so, that rules out the starter motor... i believe.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex371 Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 I replaced the starter to see if it would fix it And that didn't yield any difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lex371 Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Just now, Lex371 said: I replaced the starter to see if it would fix it And that didn't yield any difference I had done this prior to posting the question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 We had a no crank situation on an 89 which turned out to be the neutral safety switch connection on top of the transaxle. Not easy to get to but when removed, it was corroded and green inside. Cleaned as best possible, sprayed with contact cleaner and connected and disconnected several times. It has been golden since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer-X- Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 RockAuto.com has Genuine GM (may come in a "AC/Delco Original Equipment" box) D1456C for $45.xx plus shipping. With a few other choices for a bit less money. Any GM $tealership should have it as GM part # 26033390, list price is $102.08. They come with a lock cylinder and a new matching key installed. Usually, Step 1 of installation is to take that lock cylinder with the new key that fits and the old key that matches the car to a locksmith and have the lock re-keyed for your current key. It's not uncommon for those assemblies to trigger the anti-theft system because the slug in the new key that comes with the lock either doesn't have the anti-theft resistor in it, or if it does, it doesn't match the key(s) the car is paired to. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Before rushing out buying parts, you must understand the way some thing works. First and maybe most important... the thing you put your key into is not the ignition switch. It is the cylinder and the only electrical part of it is the contacts that touch the resistor in the key. I am attaching a picture of the steering column from 1991 service manual section3F5-2 The picture does not actually show the lock cylinder but it connects to item #47 which has teeth on it. 47 connects to 44, that changes the motion from circular to back and forth motion. #44 connects to #83 "ignition switch actuator" and 83 connects to the actual ignition switch #81 Your problem might be as simple as #81 being out of adjustment..... when you turn the key and the actuator rod moves it may not be moving the switch enough. Another possibility as someone above pointed out.... if the resistor in the key is not switching the relay, the car will not start. It really helps to have a service manual so you can track down these problems. Yet another possibility is the Park/neutral interlock switch is not working. The attached schematic of the starter circuit (from 1991 manual) 12 v comes to the ignition switch Item # 81 it must be moved to the start position so that 12v can go to the "starter enable relay" .... the coil in that relay must have ground connected to work and that happens with the pass key decoder module. Next 12v goes to the transmission position switch.... if it is not in park or neutral 12v does not go to the starter. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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