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55 Super speedometer re install


Cronjie
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I recently acquired a 55 Super 2 door. Among the various issues is the redline speedo. I removed the top of the dash and accessed the speedo cable. I removed it and lubed it up. It was not working and now spins very nicely. My issue is that I am trying to re insert the cable end into the speedo head. I get the redline turned to the point of almost 0 mph and once I insert the cable end , the speedo suddenly spins freely and goes up to 100. Is there an issue with the speedo? Am I installing it wrong? Any info would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks. Paul

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Not really a 90 degree elbow. Cable just curves around going from vertical to horizontal. I figured it would be much more of a bend. Car is at a stand still. Tranny end is connected. Cable end is stationary.  Very easy to slip cable into head, but when I do the red line just starts moving all the way over. I can get it to stay put when beginning to insert cable, but when almost fully inserted it moves.

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My issue is that I am trying to re insert the cable end into the speedo head. I get the redline turned to the point of almost 0 mph and once I insert the cable end , the speedo suddenly spins freely and goes up to 100. Is there an issue with the speedo? Am I installing it wrong? 

 

Help us understand where you’re at and what you’re seeing 

1) insert the cable into the speedo head.  Confirm that means you’ve properly aligned the square end of the shaft with the square socket in the head and fully tightened and seated the barrel at the end of the cable on the speedo.    
 

2) spins freely after lubricated - how did you do that?  Pull the cable out of the sheath (housing covering the center cable) enough to disconnect from transmission and spin by hand? Pull whole cable out? If so how certain are you it fully reseated in the transmission gear socket?  Or was it wheels off ground and put and drive and watch it rotate?  Observing the latter when fully pushed into the trans would ensure no binding when turned by the gear.

 

3) Am having trouble visualizing turning to zero then jump to 100 after you install. Jump to 100 and stays there with wheels stopped?  That sounds like interference in the speedo head between magnet and drum.  Bounce to 100 and return? That sounds like the cable winding up and binding after the sheath is effectively “shortened” when both ends are screwed into the trans and speedo head respectively, or the cable is not fully seating in either the respective sockets thereby causing it to rub excessively against an inner wall area of the cable sheath.

 

 

 

 

 

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Describe how you lubed the cable?

 

Only the lower third of it should have any lube. Some use graphite, some use white lithium grease, some a synthetic lubricant. If it's lubed the whole length, disconnect it, pull the cable out of the casing and spray some brake cleaner thru the casing, till things run clear. Wipe the cable down too, then reinstall it in the casing. Then lube the bottom third of the cable, put it in the casing and reconnect it.

 

***

 

This will mean going under the car but...

 

Disconnect the cable at the transmission.

 

Then make the connection at the speedometer head. Connect casing first, then go back under the car and push the cable into the speedometer's square drive.

 

Once it's seated in the speedometer head, reconnect at the transmission. Then test for correct operation.

 

Past that, speedometer probably needs to come out for repair, calibration and remagnetizing.

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Check the tension on the 2 pivots that the drum rides on first and lube them. If memory serves correct you can adjust that spiral spring as well but recommend not messing with it until you are sure the pivots let the drum turn free.  If the pivots are adjusted and lubed right, it doesn't take much to return it to zero. 

 

There may be another slot above where the end of the spring sits you can move it to to get more wind up tension.  My approach was to use a small piece of stripped wire insulation, put that over the end of the spring where it sits in the "slot" on the frame, and it added some extra tension.  I have literally added thin strips of masking tape to add small increments of tension on the spring to get a "best fit" reading across the normal driving range.  Sounds hokey but it worked.

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