Is there a sequence to tightening body bolts ?

[Puhshaw]

Car is a 47 Buick Convertible specifically.  I was thinking rail mounts middle to either end first diagonally back and forth like a v8 intake sequence, then the bracket mounts in the same fashion finishing with rears across rear cross member?

Any suggestions?

Thanks

[NTX5467]

As far as the main frame-to-body bolts go, perhaps a circular direction of torqueing them down might be better than center-to-one-end, then center-to-the-other-end?  That way, everything goes "center-to-end" all at once, in about three torque levels.

 

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Puhshaw]

that was my thoughts just did not explain it well. Should have said center to the ends but I was thinking a criss cross rather than a circle even though it will be a bigger pain. Using the same sort of pattern as a SBC intake manifold for example.

 

 

[gdmn852]

I have a 49 Super convertible and worked from the center out , making sure the rubber was under pressure but not collapsed. Certainly a lot of bolts in them,but car is nice and tight on the road very little “cowl shake “even on rough roads.You may also have to shim some of the mounts for door gaps and leveling the body. Good luck.

[EmTee]

On 7/30/2021 at 6:14 AM, gdmn852 said:

You may also have to shim some of the mounts for door gaps and leveling the body.

 

That's a good point -- note the location and number of any shims present as you remove the original mounts. 

[NTX5467]

IF you add some shims, DO ensure that the car is on verifiabley FLAT ground, as in on an alignment rack or similar.  Otherwise, any small imperfections in the level of the surface might affect where and how many shims might be needed.  BUT if none were there, with no evidence of any having been there, then none will probably be needed.  Still tighten things down on level ground, for good measure.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

[Puhshaw]

I put each set of shims and rubbers in its own Ziploc and labelled the location. Paranoid enough? They kinda of cheated at the factory. Some spots had a rubber spacer that was very hard (or is now) but is thinner than the body mount rubber. As well as 16 gauge and 1/8 inch plate spacers. And although the factory manual shows the donut shaped mounts with a tube there were none of those. Just the flat pads. I was chatting with another fellow and his was the same. Neither of our cars had previously had the bodies off so assuming it was maybe easier to source? The manual fondly refers to them as tire carcasses.  There are also two more mounting points at the front in the footwell that do not show on the factory diagrams and one hole missing in the rear floor on the drivers side though it is on the passenger side but also seem to be "extras". 

The real test will be if the doors still fit good. Everything seem to line up on the holes and at the same shim thickness so I am hopeful.

[EmTee]

This looks like a good opportunity to top-off the rear axle oil. 

[Puhshaw]

yup did that. Way easier to do stuff top down then from underneath