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About Puhshaw

  • Birthday September 5

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    Qualicum Beach, B.C. Canada

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  1. yup did that. Way easier to do stuff top down then from underneath
  2. Chevy V-8 as it is a Canadian Pontiac Laurentian one of 1170 total coupes for the year.
  3. I put each set of shims and rubbers in its own Ziploc and labelled the location. Paranoid enough? They kinda of cheated at the factory. Some spots had a rubber spacer that was very hard (or is now) but is thinner than the body mount rubber. As well as 16 gauge and 1/8 inch plate spacers. And although the factory manual shows the donut shaped mounts with a tube there were none of those. Just the flat pads. I was chatting with another fellow and his was the same. Neither of our cars had previously had the bodies off so assuming it was maybe easier to source? The manual fondly refers to them as tire carcasses. There are also two more mounting points at the front in the footwell that do not show on the factory diagrams and one hole missing in the rear floor on the drivers side though it is on the passenger side but also seem to be "extras". The real test will be if the doors still fit good. Everything seem to line up on the holes and at the same shim thickness so I am hopeful.
  4. that was my thoughts just did not explain it well. Should have said center to the ends but I was thinking a criss cross rather than a circle even though it will be a bigger pain. Using the same sort of pattern as a SBC intake manifold for example.
  5. Car is a 47 Buick Convertible specifically. I was thinking rail mounts middle to either end first diagonally back and forth like a v8 intake sequence, then the bracket mounts in the same fashion finishing with rears across rear cross member? Any suggestions? Thanks
  6. thanks thats what I needed to know. the manual tells me how low I need to go so now I can build my pipe
  7. goes between the bumper and the body. Three pieces it looks like left right and center. Sometimes called a gravel guard. Prevents rock from bouncing off back side of bumper up onto the painted surfaces.
  8. frame is stamped on top lhs just in front of bracket 3. Easy peasy just take the body off and maybe spend a few serious minutes with a power wire brush. i took a picture while body was off. don't want to have to prove it again. screwed on vin plates make all goverment types pucker up. here they prefer 3 easily viewed occurrences of serial numbers
  9. usually working the rams up and down eventually gets rid of the air. caution if using rams not connected to top assembly. Maybe the master control switch that toggles between top and windows seat is leaking? that is unknown territory for me, just speculating. on my 47 the seat switch is on the drive side seat riser. Need a picture of my switch? try posting more specifics in your title and you may get more responses.
  10. Can anyone tell me if the tailpipe drops down between the axle and the panhard rod or between the panhard rod and the gas tank. factory diagram shows sharp long drop and scale wise it looks like just after axle but want to confirm Thanks.
  11. thanks everyone for their replies. I will take it off and see what the hole looks like underneath. Maybe then I can tell if it was added later which from the replies suggests that is likely.
  12. This is located in the center of the top of the cowl. In front of the windshield and under the hood.
  13. As per title would like a working one so I can shed the aftermarket under the dash piece of clutter. Thanks
  14. ok Tremclad Sand looks like it might be close. Flat or gloss?
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