1915 Hudson 6-40

[Franklin Olympic]

Need water outlet for 1915 Hudson 6-40. Can this part be cast? Original piece full of pinhole. Dave

[edinmass]

Yup...you can cast it.......bit its not easy. Figure the first one will cost you two grand, and four hundred each there after. It will require access to a machine shop as well, and with such a large part you need experience to do the job. It's not a project for a first time guy.............

 

 

Have you talked to the Hudson club guys yet? They may have been done in the past. 

Edited May 14, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Franklin Olympic]

Thanks for the reply. No luck with the Hudson club. Hudson 6-40s are few and far between. Dave

[edinmass]

You can use the existing water manifold as a pattern, but you would have to build it up to help adjust for some of the shrinkage. It’s probably three eights of an inch over that length. It would take a lot of work to get a good unit using the original as a pattern. Biggest problem, most aluminum foundries  don’t want to deal with a one shot pattern on something that big. I’m certain it can be 3-D printed in metal now. The only question is what it would cost. It’s a half assed solution, but most people just vaper hone the cover, and apply a epoxy filler in layers. It would work and hold up for thirty years. 

Edited May 14, 2021 by edinmass (see edit history)

[lump]

What about impregnating the metal? If the pinholes are really, really tiny...impregnating might be a viable option. That is the process which many race engine builders have used back in the day to prevent seepage through the pores of engine components when they were bored over large. There used to be a company in midwest Ohio called Springfield Impregnators, and they often worked on engine parts for major racing teams. 

[Terry Harper]

As Ed said you can use the original as the pattern. Is it aluminum or iron? Fill the pin holes, bolt holes and imperfections. build-up the the flange thickness so you have some machine allowance (1/8")add material to extend the flanges (length/width) accordingly based on the shrinkage rate. Doesn't have to be fancy or permanent - wood & bondo. Just make sure the finish is as smooth as possible and its strong enough to withstand the molding process.

 

Foundry..... hands down...........

 

Cattail Foundry

167 W Cattail Rd, Gordonville, PA 17529

(717) 768-7323

 

They are reasonably priced, good quality and have no problem using original parts as patterns and do a ton of work for the antique tractor folks.

 

[Mark Gregush]

This YouTube video covers what Jay L had to to with an Owens Magnetic with same problem;

 

[PartsAncient]

Wait a minute is this piece cast iron or aluminum?  First have it bead blasted.  If cast iron braze all holes and fill deep pits.  The surface the face.  If aluminum have all holes welded by a qualified welder.  Deep pits can be filled will all-metal or JBweld,,,yes it will last!  And once again have the face surface. Also, if its aluminum paint it with Eastwood's Aluma blast and then clear coat with gloss polyurethane.