Mike34pe Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I,m not having much luck adjusting the valve lifters on my 34 ply. It's almost impossible to do it with the engine running. I set them cold by the specs at .006 intake and .008 exhaust. There still quite noisy.can anyone give me some pointers on adjusting them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I’ve had good luck setting them cold too. Maybe consider that? Let it cool overnight. Set them at .002” wider than the spec listed. I had success with my ‘38 doing it that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike34pe Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 I did set them cold. If I go .002 more would make it worse wouldn,t it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) Sorry I misread your post about setting them cold. Have you insured the piston is at TDC, compression stroke for each pair of valves? I will wiggle the tappets to double check. This ensures both valves are fully closed. By wiggling I can then feel the tappet clearance as the camshaft ramp is fully backed off the tappet. Then I proceed to set that pair of valves. Turn the crank 120 degrees and do the next set. And so on, progressing thru each cylinder's valve pairing . Following the order of 1 5 3 6 2 4. If you still get ticking you may have other problems. Edited January 24, 2021 by keithb7 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike34pe Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Thanks for your imput. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flivverking Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Are you sure each tappet is at the absolute lowest part of the cam heal ? Some people adjust cold at TDC with both valves close. But on some motors the cams are a ever so lightly ramping up or down. So adjusts can be off either way. There is a formual often used on some cars that shows for example( when 4 and 6 are at top dead center..you adjust. No. 5ex.no.3intake.no6 intake no 1ex. Then turn crank to next postion and do other specific valves . And so on. Note. This was just an example of the technique..not the actual order.. I'm sure it can be looked up Keep in mind used engines can easily have a dished out tappet head surface of .003 to .004 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 I have 1933 Plymouth PC. I think I know how to adjust the valve. I have owned other L6 engines. I want to know if the can be adjusted with the manifold on? It looks as though it would be hard to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 22 minutes ago, JBP1933 said: I have 1933 Plymouth PC. I think I know how to adjust the valve. I have owned other L6 engines. I want to know if the can be adjusted with the manifold on? It looks as though it would be hard to see. I’ve adjusted the valves on my 33 Plymouth PD with the manifolds on and hot. Gloves make it hard to feel, without gloves gives you nice burns on the back of your hands. Take your pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 Yes valves can be set with the manifolds on. Do you have a fender-well window that you can remove? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted February 9, 2021 Share Posted February 9, 2021 No window on 33, just beg fenders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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