bikemikey Posted December 28, 2020 Share Posted December 28, 2020 About 1500 miles ago I was having trouble with a TCC solenoid. I tried some Trans tune then had the fluid change with another additive. No problems since that fluid change but I'm afraid the problem is back. I think it is time to change out the solenoid. I was wondering , is there a certain speed I can stay under without kicking in the solenoid in case of an emergency. I also looked at the manual but it not too clear on replacement of the solenoid. Looking down at the rear of the transmission there is a bolted pan on the end of the trans. I assume the TCC solenoid is inside there. There is also a trans mount surrounding the pan. To me it looks like you would have to pull the engine to get to the pan. I also read some articles that you can lower the trans. I called a mechanic I know, he said take it to a transmission shop, he did not want any part of it, so I don't know. Appreciate any suggestions . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted December 28, 2020 Author Share Posted December 28, 2020 I forgot to mention it is an 89 Reatta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 What problem are you having with the TCC other than getting a code E039? You could unplug the electrical connector going to the transmission to disable it and keep it from locking up but you will still get a code 39 and probably some others. The transmission will still shift just fine with the connector unplugged. Just no converter lockup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 I should have mention there was also an E034 Maf sensor code in history when I checked it when I got back. What happen was that I was going up a hill and noticed a little roughness. Eventually it cleared out and I got back home. I assumed the trans was acting up but I could be wrong. I noticed there was some corrosion on the positive side of the battery, so I cleaned it, now all the codes are gone. I'm wondering if it is a Maf problem, but why would it throw an E039 code. Both codes where history when I checked it with engine off. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Do you show continuity on the TCC connector ? It is just a solenoid so the internals (a coil) should only fail open. If sticking the Seafoam TransTune should have helped. See the tests for ES01 in section 6E-3. I'd probably put on my lift to run test with tires off the ground or, if driving, have a passenger operate the override since must be in 3rd or 4th to use.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Okay, I'll check that out. I think I will clean the Maf sensor while I'm at it. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted January 8, 2021 Author Share Posted January 8, 2021 A little update. I went ahead and cleaned the Maf sensor. The code went away but it then came back about after three minutes. So I went ahead and installed a new Maf sensor, the code went away immediately . I drove the car around the block so far so good. Although, I read on the internet that you should disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes so that the commuter can relearn the new sensor. Is that really necessary? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 The ecm will figure it out eventually, so battery disconnect is not required, in my opinion. It probably speeds up the process if it relearns everything simultaneously but sensor performance changes over time, so it’s always adjusting something 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 That makes sense. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 There are two kinds of ECM codes: Current (c) and history (h). Current go away when fixed. History stay in place until cleared. A good scanner or disconnecting the battery will clear all codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikemikey Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 So far no current codes it's all history. Next week I will take it out for a road test and see what happens. Thank You for your support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now