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Who has done their pre-war lower front suspension?


Matt Harwood

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There's still a minor clunk in the front suspension of my Limited that I can't quite find. The shocks and upper-outer bushings are new, so I figure that the lower bushings should be next. I have NOS lower shafts, bushings and the outer bushings ready to go. I was wondering if anyone has done this job with the springs in place? I don't know if I have to replace the inner shafts and might just do the bushings. Is it a hassle to work those shafts out of there once the bushings are removed?

 

I've disassembled them before on my Century, but I'm hoping to not need to disassemble the uppers and remove the springs to make this job work.

 

Can I just replace the lower inner set with the A-arm supported by a jack stand, then replace the outer? Or is it just too risky with that spring compressed and sitting right there in my face?

 

PS: Always check to see if you have the parts on the shelf before ordering more. Spent ~$400 for new stuff from a supplier and found my box full of NOS parts on a shelf in my basement this afternoon. Grrrr...

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Hi Matt!

I was planning to do a post on the front end / shocks...  on my Model 48.  I bought the car in for a front end alignment, and in the end, had new king pins, shocks, lower control arm shafts and bushings.  I asked them to photograph as they went along, but I only got a few photos.  But let me show you how they handled the lower control arm:

 

 

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Lower control arm inner shaft that had a good 1/4" movement up and down.

 

 

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Look at that steel spring compressor in the upper right corner of this photo.  That is how they unloaded the coil spring.

 

 

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Another view of the spring compressor set in position and dialed in.  The tie rod end is hanging free.

 

 

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At this point, they were able to remove the control arm outer

 

 

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The entire assembly swings down free, the spring compressor still intact.

 

 

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There's the back side.

 

I hope this is about what you were looking for.  I wish they let me hang out in the shop but insurance reasons kept me away.

I really wanted to document the step - by - step procedure.

But, now with everything tightened up and aligned, the difference in the ride and handling is night and day.

 

If you need any other close ups..  let me know.

 

Gary

 

 

 

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The two bushings and seals on the lower control arm assembly can be replaced.  The lower control arm shaft cannot be removed from the frame without removing at least two of the riveted connections.   I've got my entire front end disassembled so my advice is limited to a suggestion.  For an operating car, you may be able to compress the spring to take the force off the shaft then remove old and reinstall new bushings. In the interest of safety and that I am uninsured as an advice provider, you may want to disassemble the lower frame.

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You will notice on Gary's car that the lower frames were disassembled at one point by grinding and drilling out the rivets.  The rivets were then replaced with bolts.  I took my frames apart, but replaced the connection with rivets.  Do judges wear knee pads checking for that sort of thing?

 

Be sure to use high grade bolts, I'm not sure what torque you would require.

 

I just checked part numbers and your 90 series are different than my 70 series, darn.  I would have taken yours off your hands.

 

Edited by kgreen (see edit history)
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Thanks, guys. That's pretty much what I expected. The coil spring compressor is a good idea just from a safety standpoint and I have one just like the one in the pictures. 

 

I do seem to recall that when I disassembled my Century all those years ago that I was able to remove the lower inner shaft without cutting the A-arms apart. I don't really remember how, but I didn't cut it apart. Maybe I was able to pry the ends apart far enough to get the shaft out? Dang, I don't recall. I looked through my website archives and found this photo where I point out that someone had welded the lower bushings into place:

 

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My notes at the time say, "Once I cut the weld, I was able to easily unbolt the bushing caps and remove the pivots. It took a little stretching and prying, but they both came off without a wrestling match or damage." So apparently I was able to remove the lower inner shafts without cutting. I don't know how but it doesn't sound like it was difficult. We'll see if it's the same when the thing is on the car. I think I'll use the compressor, unbolt the shaft, let it hang from the lower outer pin, and see if I can remove and install the shafts. I guess we'll see what happens. Not sure when I'll tackle it, but in the next few weeks. I'll report back.

 

Thanks for the info, guys!

 

 

 

 

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