JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 (edited) The master Cylinder was bone dry and all the wheel were locked up. Pulled all brakes. All wheel Cylinders were completely froze and loaded with rust and gook. Rebuilt back Cyl. replaced fronts. I rebuilt master Cyl. I could not get a heavy stream of fluid from wheel cyls. when bleeding. I am asking how the master cyl. is assembled, to check myself out. Everything the was done before on this car was in correct. Fist goes the rubber washer The I will call it a check valve flat side toward the rubber washer. spring, rubber piston cup down, piston seal down hollow in piston for rod up, steel washer, retaining ring. Is that correct? I saw a post from (PLY33) about the filler cap. I saw a picture a rew times of this, but it wasn't on mine. I just have a plug on mine Does anyone have any input on the slow brake fluid while bleeding. I have no brake pressure at all. Edited October 19, 2020 by JBP1933 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Collapsed flex hoses maybe problem . Disconnect at head of each to check flow . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Would that cause all to be slow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 There is hoses on all lines . When one dries out usually all do . Rear are on same one at axle . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Only other is compensating hole leading down in MC . Not allowing fluid to refill after pump, of pedal . This is smaller of two holes to refill chamber . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Fronts are new. I'll check the backs. I should have done that when I did the cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, JBP1933 said: First goes the rubber washer The I will call it a check valve flat side toward the rubber washer. spring, rubber piston cup down, piston seal down hollow in piston for rod up, steel washer, retaining ring. Is that correct? Yes that is correct. But first check to make sure that there is a slight amount of freeplay in the master cylinder push rod when the brake pedal is fully pulled back by the long coil return spring. That rod must not be holding the master cylinder piston inwards at bit, as the drilled port in the master reservoir will be blocked by the piston, and not allowing the piston to "grab" more fluid when bleeding. To explain what Tom said on how to check for internally swelled rubber hoses; disconnect one steel line from the input end of one front brake hose. Then see if you get flow then. But best to first test the master cylinder First ! : have a helper to work the brake pedal, and then you can "bleed" the master cylinder itself, by loosening the fitting on the end of the master. That should show flow, even if hoses are blocked, but again, you must not have the pushrod too long and keeping the master cylinder piston inwards a bit. The rod should move a tiny bit before it starts to push the piston. Edited October 19, 2020 by F&J (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thanks, There's about 1" of play. But will check lines. I did blow out the line at the master cylinder when I had them all apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 My truck system was dried out and rusted like yours ended up doing all . Plus last was that tiny compensating hole . Could not even see it, had to drill clear with number bit . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Do you have book Of Information for it with diagrams ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 34 minutes ago, JBP1933 said: Thanks, There's about 1" of play. But will check lines. I did blow out the line at the master cylinder when I had them all apart. Depending on wear in the brake pedal pivot, etc. it may not be exactly one inch of play at the pedal. I verified mine by having the cover off the master and gently pulling the brake pedal down from the engine side of the firewall while feeling for the rod to contact the piston in the master and looking for a little spurt of fluid from the relief port (the smaller hole). If you remove the tubing leading from the master and put in a short section the loops back to the reservoir you can pump the master all you want to circulate fluid until the air is out. Basically bench bleeding it in the car. Then re-attach the tubing that goes to the wheel cylinders to start the main bleeding process. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thanks, that what I'll have to do to start narrowing down what's causing it. It has to be a simple fix. I just keep doubting myself. About did I do this or that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP1933 Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Articfer Tom, No I do not have a book as of yet. I am waiting for a manual in the mail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 12 minutes ago, JBP1933 said: Thanks, that what I'll have to do to start narrowing down what's causing it. It has to be a simple fix. I just keep doubting myself. About did I do this or that. You should definitely bleed the master first like mentioned by two of us. If the entire system is bone dry, often that makes it impossible to get any flow going. By bleeding the master, that will encourage flow into the lines in a huge way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted October 19, 2020 Share Posted October 19, 2020 Here is a pic . Not sure if matches . But note number 5 relief hole . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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