Old Air Products Comes To The Rescue!

[NC1968Riviera]

Last February I purchased the Old Air Products 1968 Buick Full Size car Heater Control/Defroster Control cable set #26-1068. I assumed that this set would work on my 68 Riv since they did not have a kit specific to the 68 like they do for the First Gen Rivs. Wrong!

 

Recently I began the PITA process to remove the old cables and install the new ones. I discovered the red tabbed heater control cable in the kit is 42" long. My original heater control cable is 62" long! AARRRGGGHHHH!!!

Below is a side by side comparison of the kit red tabbed heater control cable and my original one with broken red tabs.

 

I promptly fired off a message to Old Air Parts sales department that the kit I bought does not work on my car and I asked what they could do to help me. I promptly received a response from Old Air customer service agent Matt.

I called him after he gave me his direct line at work. We discussed my dilemma with the too short control cable in their kit.

 

He said if I was willing to send my original cables to OAP that they would create a new set of cables for my 68 Riv using mine as templates. And at NO extra charge to me! That sounded like an offer I could not refuse! I told him the shorter defroster control cable in the kit was an exact fit for my car and that I did not need a new one of those. 

 

I boxed up my old control cables and mailed them to OAP that day. (July 3rd). Matt emailed me a few days later informing me he had my old cables on his desk and that he would give them to an engineer to create a new set of cables.

 

Within two weeks of sending in my old cables, I had a freshly minted set of OAP-made control cables in my hands. They even vacuum packed them on their packaging and created a part number for this set specifically for 68 Riviera with AC (the non-automatic adjustment AC that is). I am not sure if the automatic adjusting AC has the same cables.

 

I have yet to install the new heater control cable but I did measure it and it is 62" long. I had asked that the hold down tabs be pre-adjusted to be the same as on my old cable. I was assured they would be. If they require adjusting, it isn't hard to do.

 

Overall, I am very happy with Old Air Products merchandise and their customer service is top notch!

 

Below are some pics of the new kit. Hopefully it will be available on their website soon. I am pretty sure I won't be receiving any royalties from any sales of this kit! 😂

 

 

Edited July 24, 2020 by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)

[RivNut]

I don't receive any royalties from Mr. Gs Enterprises for the interior screw kit for the first generation Rivieras but Glenn did give me the first kit he put together. 😊  Whatever it takes to support the hobby.

[NC1968Riviera]

7 minutes ago, RivNut said:

I don't receive any royalties from Mr. Gs Enterprises for the interior screw kit for the first generation Rivieras but Glenn did give me the first kit he put together. 😊  Whatever it takes to support the hobby.

I figure I am in the same boat. A free kit shipped at no extra charge was a good deal in my book.

[NC1968Riviera]

I installed the new Old Air Products heater control in the AZ this morning.

 

I sprayed a liberal amount of WD-40 on the heater control arm to make opening and closing the door a little easier.

 

I opted to install the cable with the adjustment end in the engine bay to facilitate easier access to the adjuster mechanism. I adjusted the security tab towards the end of the sheathing after I took this picture to get more travel by the wire. 

 

Yes it means having the cable hanging near the rear of the air cleaner canister but I can live with that. 

 

The interior end of the cable installed pretty easily. The biggest challenge is getting the 1/4" bracket anchor screw back in. It is a very tight spot even with the Ignition switch and ashtray removed. Bending down the Ignition switch mounting ring helps a lot.

 

The heater control cable is the one on the bottom of the picture below. The defrost control cable is the one at the top. 

 

I reconnected the heater control diaphragm vacuum lines back to the bottom of the control unit.

(😕

See thread entry below) 

 

I think I may have a faulty defrost diaphragm or a vacuum hose leak because it takes a couple of minutes for air to divert from the floor vents to the defrost ducts when I roll the defrost knob up. 

 

Here is the defrost control cable installed on the control arm. 

Edited July 27, 2020 by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)

[NC1968Riviera]

If anyone needs the blue tabbed Defrost Control Cable (~24"long) let me know.

 

I will let the new extra Old Air Products cable that I have go for the cost to ship it to you. 

[telriv]

Mike,

 

    See that vacuum valve with the three hose fittings???  They are a very common source for small vacuum leaks.  While things are apart remove that valve, take it apart, clean out the hardened 50+ years old hardened grease, clean thoroughly with brake clean & dry & re-grease with  some new grease. NOT wheel bearing grease, something lighter.  Now you shouldn't have to worry about it for another 50 years. 

    I believe there is another in the system with 5 or 6 ports also. Do the same. Now when you go to change mods it will happen almost instantly because the grease acts as a sealer.

 

Tom T.

[XframeFX]

Old Air Products has been good to me for the few pieces I purchased from them.

After making cables and levers for my '63, I discovered a complete cable set produced by OAP. If only I had known. I find  I'm spending too much time researching but for this job, apparently not enough.

I like OAP for supporting OEM systems as well as offering their modern retro-fit systems.

OAP often have booths at car shows with product! Canadians like cash 'n carry.

Good install Mike.

 

John B.

[NC1968Riviera]

This morning I turned the hot water control valve vacuum hose port over on the Climate Control assembly. 

 

And as fast as you can say "Bob's your uncle" the hot air started flowing when the temp control wheel was turned up to HOT. I am glad this was an easy fix.

 

All I had to do was remove the Ignition Switch cover, reach in and flip the rubber block over. No hose rearranging needed. Whew! 

 

Note: Be sure the tongue on the vacuum port block goes down. 

 

Edited July 27, 2020 by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)