ibrake4oldcars Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 Does anyone have one of these door aligners that you would be willing to sell me? There are two per door on my 34 Commander but I am missing one. I would like to find two if possible. They are 1-5/16" in length. Also how were these finished? Thanks for your help. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drdon Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) Saw a bunch just advertised- maybe for you - for sure many years same item eBay? Try Stude International (look online) orseveral others. Two per door? Hmmm oops ones I see are ‘36-54. Sorry Edited January 8, 2020 by drdon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studerex Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 As I said before. You are welcome to these, but you have to remove them. The screws are stuck good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted January 9, 2020 Share Posted January 9, 2020 Normally, Rex, that’s a job for the “flame wrench” - unless there is wood on the back side. But, you might still be able to heat the screw heads to cherry red or better and use a left-handed screw removal drill bit to get the screw heads off. The hinges on my M5 truck looked like that. Heat, alternating with penetrating oil on the hot screws, and a hand-held impact driver with 3-lb hammer eventually either loosened the screws or broke the heads off. Still, it’s a lot of labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibrake4oldcars Posted January 9, 2020 Author Share Posted January 9, 2020 Thanks all for your input. Rex, I will take you up on removing them myself if I can't find any by the May swap meet in South Bend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(S) Posted January 10, 2020 Share Posted January 10, 2020 Studebaker used notoriously soft screws for those. I usually grind the head flat, center punch it and step drill them. The screw and the part is countersunk so you will see the screw head want to break from the shank right before you come close to drilling the part. Check your books - I think by '34 they had a floating nut plate inside the pillar? Just slide it out to repair the plate. , heat and vise grips should take the screw remnants right out of the plate on the bench rather than beating it on the car.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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