Modern fluids for a 31 PA engine and trans

[Brooklyn Beer]

As I get ready to accept a 1931 (titled as a 32) Plymouth PA into the garage I am looking at two distinct drastic driving extremes between winter and summer here in TX. 30-50 degree's in winter but 100 + in summer. Above 90 from mid May through September. I know I have to change out winter to summer trans oil in my 31 Franklin or shifting is a pain. It just gets too thin to spin the trans down at 160 and I change it to 250.  Would the same hold true for the Plymouth trans?  How about the rear end?

 

Brake fluid. I like DOT 3. what say you ?

 

Motor oil?  Yes I know it is between my god and me and outside the extreme temps a Franklin runs at where I use Mobile 1 ,10-40 full synthetic,  I stick with conventional 10-30 in winter and 10-40 summer in all my other Mopar flat 6's.. Opinions?  I don't know anything about the flat 4.

 

Belt number ?

 

Reading up on the clutch release bearing and it's lubrication. Is this accessed from below the car of through an access cover in the floor?

[JamesLay]

I have a 32 PA roadster i have owned since 1974.the right engine oil is a highly debated topic .i use heaver oils and change after afew hundred miles.my engine is rebuilt and crank case is clean so ithink i am going to start using syntheic oils.i do use detrgent oil.the throw out bearing is kind of hard to get to.shift boot cover pad and floor matt has to come up then metal center plate removed from floor. then there is a 4-5 inch tin cover plate on bell housing to remove.still kind of hard to get grease gun hose on to. i have done it only acouple of times once with the engine out.

[Brooklyn Beer]

This car I am buying I am sure it has not much road miles on it the last few years but has been in the family since the 70's.  Same repeat story where the owners got up in years and nobody wants "just another old car".  Needs a total lube job for one and is why I ask about the clutch release bearing.  Some of the more routine maintenance I am sure has been lacking just seeing that they did not want to take time to change out the blown exhaust/intake manifold gasket. So I was going to drain the essential fluids and start from scratch and of course see what is in the bottom of the pan. Going to start out with changing trans and diff oil to 140 as manual says 160.    Then change the motor oil out to a high mileage 15w 40 or a full synthetic 15w40 with a little zddp added as our winters here in this part of TX can be up and down.  I drive year round if it's dry regardless the temps unless a couple extreme fronts come through as happens a few times a year.  But most winter driving here is above 50 degree's. (Today is 74) I want to give the old seals a little help as I drive it back to normalcy unless a high mileage oil with it's conditioners is not good on a flat 4 motor. I know whatever we put in them today is leaps ahead of what went in in the day but keep reading about the damage the wrong fluid can do with yellow metals.  But I keep coming across this product on threads as well as the Penrite 140W being that 160 has been phased out it seems. With as hot as it gets here in TX I do not think a multi-grade gear oil is my best bet.

 

 

 

 Sta-Lube SL24238 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 140W SAE-Gallon, 128. Fluid_Ounces is a GL-4 oil.

[Spinneyhill]

Whatever gear oil you use, make sure the copper strip corrosion test result is 1a. Copper will be fairly safe in that oil. If they don't give a result, look for another oil.

[rageracing]

For engine oil I run brad penn “green oil” 20w/50 in my motors.  It has the higher zinc and seems to really stick to the engine parts.  I’ve torn them apart after sitting for over a year and everything still had a coating of oil on it.  Gear oil I use lubriplate