HELP****1960 Dodge Polara won't idle.

[Wheelboy]

Hello,

 

Just drove my car the other day for a safety inspection at the garage. Drove it this morning parked it and went to drive home and wouldn't start unless I held my foot on the gas. Won't idle without holding gas down slightly. 

 

What should I check first? I immediately thought carb. But was reading something about vacuum lines on a Bel Air thread. 

 

Any help is much appreciated I am a new owner to this car. 

Edited September 29, 2019 by Wheelboy (see edit history)

[TerryB]

Sounds like the idle circuit in the carb might be blocked and car is not getting enough fuel.  By pressing on the gas pedal you are opening up more of the run circuit of the carb and it’s getting more fuel.

[Rusty_OToole]

There is a quick fix if the idle jet is plugged. Carefully screw in the idle screws and count how many turns. Take them out completely and blow into the holes with compressed air. Put the idle screws back, and adjust the same as they were before. Do not blast too hard with the air hose, you don't want to collapse the float. 3 quick puffs should do it.

[Bloo]

It is really hard to tackle this without being there to hear it. I agree with TerryB that it SOUNDS like an idle circuit plugged. Rusty's method should clear it if that is what it is.

 

Look around for broken or loose vacuum hoses. Do you have power brakes? Which engine is this and which carburetor?

 

 

 

Edited September 29, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

We used to use the air hose on VW beetles which were often afflicted with plugged idle passages. American cars less so because the passages are bigger and the carbs made differently. If the quick fix does not work or if the problem comes back, plan on a carburetor overhaul because there is a lot of dirt or silt in there.

[plymouthcranbrook]

When my 52 Plymouth began having trouble idling I did a test with a vacuum gauge which suggested a leak.  I then sprayed the areas around the carb and manifold with carb cleaner. The speed went up right away.  Manually closing the choke helped also. Turned out the intake gasket was leaking. Replacing it solved the problem. 

[Wheelboy]

5 hours ago, Bloo said:

It is really hard to tackle this without being there to hear it. I agree with TerryB that it SOUNDS like an idle circuit plugged. Rusty's method should clear it if that is what it is.

 

Look around for broken or loose vacuum hoses. Do you have power brakes? Which engine is this and which carburetor?

 

 

 

yes I do have power Brakes. I thinks its a 383 Originally sold in NJ originally. American is 383 and Canadian market had 361 from my research not sure though. How do I tell what engine I have?  I will try the idle jet clean tomorrow. 

 

 

[Bloo]

When the brake booster pops, it makes a huge vacuum leak. Do your brakes feel funny? If so, and if none of this other advice helps, try disconnecting the hose, and plugging the port to the engine.

 

It is highly likely that both a 361 and a 383 were available, at least in the USA. They look about identical. There is a boss with numbers stamped near the distributor. I cant seem to remember how the numbers worked in 1960, but if you get that number you can probably look it up. For instance in 1965 it probably would start out A-361 for a 361 and A-383 for a 383. The block casting number is also different between a 361 and 383, and that could also be looked up. 361s were still pretty common back then, so its a good chance thats what it is.

 

For troubleshooting the problem 383 or 361 makes no difference. At least now we know it is a B engine, not a 318 or a slant six.

 

Edited September 30, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Wheelboy]

Here is what I found this morning. What is the large black cylinder on the firewall?

some vacuum lines are split and loose. A small 1/8" line and a 1/2" which looks to be for washer fluid. Which currently doesn't work. Also bag has a hole in it. 

Engine block reads P- 38?? 

 

Yes the brakes did feel funny on the start of my drive the other day pressing hard to stop. on way back with acting up engine I had good brakes. 

 

 

 

Edited October 22, 2019 by Wheelboy (see edit history)

[Bloo]

The one in you second pic could sure cause it.Thats for the heater controls. Try changing that or cutting it shorter and putting it back on. It needs to fit tight. Actually i might try capping the port on the engine first, in case the heater controls leak vacuum, then hook hose back up and see if its still ok.

 

The big hose next to it goes to the  brake booster. That would be another on to disconnect and plug at the engine if`the little one doesn't fix things. The brake booster could be letting air in through that hose when it shouldn't.

 

Washer stuff wont matter to the engine.

 

p38 sounds like 383!

 

 

Edited September 30, 2019 by Bloo (see edit history)

[Wheelboy]

Update changed the small hose, blew out carb low speed jet. Started on first crank. 

 

idle fine except when put into gear decreases. 

Edited October 22, 2019 by Wheelboy (see edit history)

[Bloo]

Idle is supposed to decrease when you put it in gear (drag from the torque converter in the transmission). Does it idle ok now?

 

As for the brakes, they might normally affect the idle, but only when you let up on the pedal, not when you step down on it.

[Wheelboy]

2 hours ago, Bloo said:

Idle is supposed to decrease when you put it in gear (drag from the torque converter in the transmission). Does it idle ok now?

 

As for the brakes, they might normally affect the idle, but only when you let up on the pedal, not when you step down on it.

 

It idles good in neutral not so good in gear will die eventually. I increased idle speed 1/2 turn as screw wasn't touching before. 

 

 

[Bloo]

Sounds good!