cdb Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 After taking the engine out both rear engine rubbers are quite bad. I wonder if these are original. The engine plate is also cracked because the load on the plate is quite badly transfered. In front of the plate there are 4 big holes in the frame, I wonder if these are the original holes for the engine rubber mounts. Need to fix it and prefer to make it either original or better.... if any one has pictures please let me know chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narve N Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 (edited) Original engine mounts can be seen in these pictures. The rear arrangement is 4 bolts through the frame and a square steel mount with a simple rubber pad between. The arrangement you have is a modification. Usually the original rubber and bracket/bolts can be reused from any wreck/parts car together with the "banjo" between engine and clutch housing. It is more common that the cast iron ears at the front are broken, I believe it is important not to overtighten the vertical bolts. I probably can sell you the items you are missing for a small fee, but Norwegian shipping costs are horrific. Maybe you can pick them up? Edited May 28, 2019 by Narve N (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted May 30, 2019 Author Share Posted May 30, 2019 Thanks Narve, I think I'll invent some new mounts. I have access to plenty of big rubbers like used on the front. two of these on each side of the rear must be sufficient. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 30, 2019 Share Posted May 30, 2019 Just be careful with your new mounts that you keep the engine at the same angle to the ground as it was originally, so the gearbox output shaft is parallel to the differential input shaft. This will make your universals work properly and not vibrate the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share Posted June 8, 2019 Thanks, that also explains why the starter button needed an extended hole in the floor, i will aline it if it ever gets in. A new problem arose as i discovered a crack in the outside of the cylinder head. That is likely the reason why the car was abondoned many years ago. Plan is to weld the crack which is a challenge as is over the full width of the head. Anyone a spare head for a 65? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, cdb said: Thanks, that also explains why the starter button needed an extended hole in the floor, i will aline it if it ever gets in. A new problem arose as i discovered a crack in the outside of the cylinder head. That is likely the reason why the car was abondoned many years ago. Plan is to weld the crack which is a challenge as is over the full width of the head. Anyone a spare head for a 65? Chris Can you show us the head and casting number on it? We may have one. Does it look like Narve's? Edited June 8, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share Posted June 8, 2019 hi keiser31 the head looks the same as the one from narve. casting number is in the picture. the welding did not really go as planned, the material is very thin and rusted out from inside. cracks just moved to the next spot next to the weld. now it seems to be crack free but if you have another head i would really be interested. if you can ship in the us that would be easy. just let me know what the total cost is. thnx chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 8, 2019 Share Posted June 8, 2019 I will look through my stuff. That one does not look familiar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted June 8, 2019 Author Share Posted June 8, 2019 engine number is p188902 if that helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cdb Posted June 10, 2019 Author Share Posted June 10, 2019 the head is giving me a headache... it keeps on cracking next to the weld. just to explain what i've been doing; - made a barbeque that is big enough to fit the head in - heated the head to 250 celcius - welded 1cm at a time with my mig welder using stainless steel wire, hammering down the weld to reduce stress before it cools down. - it looks fine but after cooling down in the barbeque there are plenty of tiny cracks. don't want to glue it with epoxy, maybe just braze it with silver/copper if nothing else works. anybody a bright idea that works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted June 10, 2019 Share Posted June 10, 2019 From what I have read on these fora, metal stitching is the way to go, but you may be too late for that now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narve N Posted June 13, 2019 Share Posted June 13, 2019 I can sell you a head for a fair price here in Norway, however the freighters charges could make picking it up in person a viable option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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