telriv Posted March 8, 2019 Author Share Posted March 8, 2019 Everyone who puts radial tires on their vehicles doesn't get the FULL BENEFIT of radial tires unless they also upgrade the alignment specs. This alone can make a HUGE diff. in the way the vehicle rides & handles. Tom T. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 3 hours ago, telriv said: Everyone who puts radial tires on their vehicles doesn't get the FULL BENEFIT of radial tires unless they also upgrade the alignment specs. This alone can make a HUGE diff. in the way the vehicle rides & handles. Tom T. At the time I added the radials, no one knew about that. I can only imagine how much nicer it would have been. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 New alignment specs are of limited value if you can't get your car adjusted thereto. In particular, it's not always possible to get the desired amount of positive caster. The most common way to fix this is to pull the lower control arm forward by either shaving the reaction rod bushings or giving the reaction rod nut a couple of more turns. Both solutions run some risk of cocking the control arm on its bushing, which could lead to binding or egging out the bushing. There's also the factor of compromising the functionality of the reaction rod bushings, either because they're too thin or overly compressed. There is a third way: move the upper control arm back by changing its position on the control arm shaft. Factory specs call for the arm to be centered on the shaft. If you move it one or two revolutions towards the rear, you'll gain another ~2° of caster adjustment, without compromising the geometry or functionality of the components.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 On 11/18/2018 at 5:28 PM, telriv said: Because what your asking is impossible. Your train of thought needs to be brought into perspective. That's why I answered the way I did now & back when. AND, Ed just explained another example which I'm sure you will question just like you have done in the past. Corvettes did the same but added holes in the steering arms that were closer to speed up the ratio as there was no room with the Vette set-up to lengthen the pitman & idler arms so a hole was added on the spindle closer to the actual spindle. You just like pushing my buttons don't you. I'm not playing into your game & as far as ANY future responses to YOU I WILL NOT ANSWER. Others have responded that have installed one of my boxes & they are VERY PLEASED!!!! So, put that in your hat & smoke it Mr. know it all. Tom T. Last Friday March 8th I was rolling south in my 63 Red Riviera with the recently installed Double T rebuilt steering box on Interstate 95. Traffic was heavy, but motoring along around 70 mph. BEFORE I had the Double T installed I would not travel 70 because the car was too difficult to keep straight in the lane. An 18 wheeler was crawling up my two inch exhaust pipes. I accelerated to 90 mph in no time and I felt very secure with steering, handling, road feel. The Double T rebuild 808 was just fine with me. The $450.00 fee for the rebuild with exchange is the best deal I’ve had on any part update for my 63. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 On 11/18/2018 at 4:51 PM, RivNut said: When this was a topic of discussion some time ago, I read a couple of articles dealing with this same topic. One that really stuck in my mind had to do with "quick ratio" boxes in Z28 Camaros. To reduce the number of turns lock to lock, all Chevy did was to lengthen the pitman and idler arms. Using the same arc of travel with a longer lever, will move the spindles farther with the same amount input. If you want less travel in your steering wheel, just lengthen your pitman arm and match up the idler arm. Gear ratios and degrees of travel be damned. It's really just elementary geometry. Ed, a little fun here....theoretically if you changed the diameter of your steering wheel to like one those welded chain 8-10” diameter steering wheels that would have a bearing on the ratio, right? I’m missing something in the substance of this ratio thing. Turbinator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Changing the diameter of the steering wheel would only change the effort you put into moving the wheel. Power steering compensates for manual effort. Imagine a tough nut. You put a cheater on your breaker bar. The larger diameter wheel is your cheater bar. If you ever worked on a farm as a kid, you'll remember how big the steering wheels were on the old tractors. Only "Armstrong" brand power steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurquoiseMist65 Posted June 11, 2021 Share Posted June 11, 2021 @telriv I tried to call the number provided and it has a smart blocker and havent been able to get through. Can you direct message me since I can't direct message you since I'm too new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 Post a phone number & I will call you at an appropreate time OR conact myself at telriv@yahoo.com Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbinator Posted June 20, 2021 Share Posted June 20, 2021 (edited) On 3/10/2019 at 12:21 PM, RivNut said: Edited June 25, 2021 by Turbinator Error (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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