Arun Nella Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Hi, Bought my first classic and learnt that the generator needs to be rebuilt. So trying to get that to a shop. Removed the generator-power steering pump assembly. But can't seem to figure out how to detach power steering pump from generator. Couldn't find anything helpful in shop manual. Any help will be appreciated. 1954 Windsor deluxe w/ power steering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) My Chrysler shop manual says remove the 3 pump to generator mounting screws and remove the pump. It should pull right off once the screws are removed. Be sure to tie the pump up or set it aside so that it doesn't fall or get damaged. You should not need to disconnect the hoses. It was in the steering section, section 10-28 of the 1949 = 52 manual, yours may be slightly different. What makes you think you need to rebuild the generator? Did you test it and did you try polarizing it? Edited March 10, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) Remove the pump as Rusty said... remove the three nuts and lock washers then lightly wack the side of the pump housing with your fist to loosen it. Don't be a pansy and use a mallet. Then carefully work the pump off the three studs. There is a four notch rubber generator to P/S pump coupling... be careful that you don't damage it. It is common to see them damaged from a P/S pump oil leak..that softens and swells the rubber coupling making it swell in size. Edited March 10, 2018 by c49er (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 (edited) I stopped pounding hubcaps etc with my fist years ago when someone told me it could lead to arthritis. Don't know if it is true but since then have used a rubber mallet or plastic hammer, and no arthritis. Edited March 10, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 Hand hub cap installation... yes... very hard on the hands..... early MoPar P/S pumps off generators .... requires a very very light sideways wack...no arthritis here either ..close to 70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted March 10, 2018 Share Posted March 10, 2018 I've been smacking stuff all my life. I had a race buddy that would yell "WORKMANS COMP" every time he sees me doing that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arun Nella Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 On 3/9/2018 at 8:51 PM, Rusty_OToole said: My Chrysler shop manual says remove the 3 pump to generator mounting screws and remove the pump. It should pull right off once the screws are removed. Be sure to tie the pump up or set it aside so that it doesn't fall or get damaged. You should not need to disconnect the hoses. It was in the steering section, section 10-28 of the 1949 = 52 manual, yours may be slightly different. What makes you think you need to rebuild the generator? Did you test it and did you try polarizing it? The windsor i bought came with a 12V battery. When the car died on me at a light, looked into it to learn that car is 6V positive ground but previous owner had it wired for negative ground and had 12V battery. Started the car with a 12V booster measured voltage at generator. 0 Volts. At that point, i wanted to get the generator rebuilt since it's original anyways. I don't know what all the last owner did but i inherited a shorted positive ground voltage regulator. I bought a spare from Oreilly. Tried to start the car with a fully charged 6V battery but no luck. But starts with a 12 volt booster. I would like to keep the car at 6v but going in circles now. I do have a shop manual but it's missing some pages from electrical after battery, starter, generator and voltage generator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 13, 2018 Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) If the generator is original 6v the most likely all the previous owner did was put in the wrong battery, backwards. The engine should start easily on 6v if it is in good shape. A 12v jolt will "cure" a faulty 6v car the same way a shot of cocaine will "cure" a sick person. You need to find out what is wrong and fix it properly. The engine will turn over slower than you are used to but should start in seconds if it has good compression and the ignition and choke are working the way they are supposed to. Chryslers are particularly hard to convert to 12v because they have so much more electrical equipment than cheaper cars of the time, like electric wipers instead of vacuum, electric transmission controls instead of manual, 7 tube radio, heater, etc. If I was there I would start by checking that the battery is charged then check the wiring to the starter. If it turns over on the key I would check the ignition and electric choke. If the engine has good compression I could have it eating out of my hand in a couple of hours. Edited March 13, 2018 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted March 14, 2018 Share Posted March 14, 2018 Check the ground cable from battery to frame to make sure it is a big fat 6 volt cable. Welding cables are great for this. !2 volt cars have smaller cables and he/she may have replaced it. Clean the ground connection REAL good with sand paper and make sure the connection is tight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arun Nella Posted March 15, 2018 Author Share Posted March 15, 2018 Got the generator removed. See the pic. Thanks everyone. Now I am tracing wires to figure out why starter isn't cranking on 6V battery but cranks on 12 V. I might create another topic to discuss strictly the starting issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 You need good wires to the starter and BIG too. Twice as big as a 12v car. If the wires were replaced with small parts store wires, or if they are old and corroded they could be the problem. A quick test is to add a set of jumper cables and see if it makes a difference. If you have a good 6v battery, fully charged, and good wires the engine should turn over. Not as fast as on 12v in fact it might seem to be turning too slow but if everything is right it will start. If the battery and cables are good and it won't turn over it must be a worn out starter due for a rebuild. Any good auto electric rebuilder should be able to do this, you do not need to send it away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 That generator has a red tag on it... meaning it's a 6 volt generator. Was it run with 12 volt battery? If so you need to be sure no damage was done to the generator and voltage regulator. Any new wiring on the car? Plastic covered etc.... messy looking? If so the whole harness needs to be carefully checked to see it's as factory if staying wit 6 volt postitive ground as was the car when new. You need a factory shop manual...Ebay and use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now