WillBilly53 Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 well i'm gonna go for the rebuild. i think it'd be good and this being my first restoration i'd like to learn all about the car so i'm gonna dive in!alright i know i'll probably get flak for this, or thrown into the "that guy puts his car on concrete blocks" category, BUUUUUT i was wondering if it was possible to remove an engine without a hoist. i saw something online where a guy was explaining how to do it with two people and a couple of 2 x 4s. drilling holes long ways (meaning the holes would be 4 inches deep not 2 inches) in the studs where the head bolts are and then tightening down the head bolts and then you lift it out. has anyone ever tried this? i have the whole front end parts removed, i.e. the radiator, the quart panels/fenders, etc. i could literally pull the engine forward instead of up.oh and just in case, my beautiful baby is on some very nice 6 ton jack stands purchased from eastwood and not on concrete blocks! LOLthanks in advance,willbilly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 i dont think so. think about it. how much does the engine weigh???? How high will u have to lift it????? Better take some measurements. If its a tiny 4 cyl in a fairly lowslung car then maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 4, 2002 Share Posted September 4, 2002 even if one of you two are certified in cpr or medically trained i still wouldn't do itgo back to the store where you purchased those 6 ton blocks and buy a liftor rent one!!!!i struggle even with the proper equipment.you will need it to replace the motor right!, so bite the bullet and rent it twice, or buy one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted September 4, 2002 Author Share Posted September 4, 2002 i hate it when you all are right! LOLyeah i just looked into renting one and i could rent one for a day for around $30. i figure that's worth way more than a broken foot/feet, broken back or worse. thanks for the tip that site must have been for lifting a lawnmower engine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Yeah, even if you figure it's $30 each way... that's $60.... your shade tree method would cost more:Lumber -- $25 (can't use constuction grade 2x4... too many knots make it weak), so you'd need clear fir or pine.Beer -- $20 (like no way would you get several sane friends to undertake this opeartion sober!)Chiopractor -- $600 for six visits to fix what you sprung trying to muscle a 500 pound engine around.I figure you're about $560 bucks ahead... take the wife to dinner!JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 i love this board! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave@Moon Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 My grandfather was professional mechanic. He taught himself on Model T's, and worked (on his own and in new car dealerships) roughly from 1930 to 1980.In the late '80's, I was helping my father work on something in my grandfather's garage. While looking for a tool, I came accross a heavy, broad (6") fabric strap with a heavy iron hook on each end. The strap was about 8' long and made of the thickest, densest wool I've ever seen. The hooks were very similar to those used on tow ropes.I asked my dad what it was. He said is was my grandfather's "engine strap". It was used by slinging it over one's shoulder, standing on a car's fenders, hooking the strap to or under the engine, and <span style="font-style: italic">lifting the motor off the mounts and removing it through the front </span> (radiator removed)! I thought he was pulling my leg, but he was dead serious. He said the tool was older than he was (early '30's), and that he'd seen my grandfather use it. This operation would've been done on cars that: a. had low fenders or shock towers that could support a man + engine, and b. were not of a quality where footprints on the fenders would be a problem.Has anybody else come accross one of these? Anybody actually use one???? Why? There were no good old days! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUICK RACER Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Before I broke down and bought the engine hoist at Sam's Club, for $179.99, that was many years ago, we(my brother and I) got good at this we would get everything disconnected and ready to pull, then run out to the rental place, needless to say, I had to put a hitch on the truck before then, rent the hoist, for $30 or less and pull the engine, stick in on the stand, then run the hoist back to the place we got it from. Now, it isn't much to know, but my great brother, bought a '70 Electra, for $50 with a salvage title for parts for his '70 Wildcat Convertible, this would have been probably 1983, he took the front clip off it, and was able to dump the engine out on the ground without a hoist or any help. Seems like he took it all apart on the ground to be able to move it, I don't remember, but having the engine hoist is almost a must if you are going to play this game! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 If you have a stong overhead beam then you could hook a chain pulley to it and lift the engine out like that. My dad had one of these lifts. I remember when i was about 6 years old sitting on the cowl of his Dodge Dart and pushing the slant 6 with my legs to help him get it lined up with...something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 Y'all are making my back hurt talking about this Will- go to Advance Auto or somewhere like that and buy yerself an engine lift. The kind that will fold up for storage. About $200. Then you have one for future jobs and your young back and legs will love you for that decision 20 years down the road...As an alternative- equipment rental places have these things for about $25-30 a day. Money well spent if you don't have anywhere to store one of your own. Only thing here is sometimes they're "well-used". Make sure the hydraulic ram is in good shape and not leaking past its seals, otherwise you'll get the engine half out the car and it will not go high enough to clear the sheetmetal no matter how many times you pump the ram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted September 5, 2002 Author Share Posted September 5, 2002 thanks everybody!the engine strap story is utterly amazing!i'm gonna stop by harbor freight or advanced auto parts and get the lift.cause i do plan on restoring more cars... er Buicks that is!-will e. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted September 5, 2002 Share Posted September 5, 2002 I believe the engine strap story.... the Navy still loads ordinance (bombs to you civilians) using a hernia bar attached to the nose and tail of the bomb. Two strong avaition ordinance men can load a 500 pounder... well, OK... three of them.JMC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 i use a Ford differential hoist to pull engines and lift motorcycles. Sling it from doubled 2X6 garage rafters and support the rafters with a verticle 2X4 against the floor. U can buy a 1 ton chain fall like that on eBay for about 70 bucks. PackardV8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted September 6, 2002 Author Share Posted September 6, 2002 yee-haw!this morning i woke up extra early to head to harbor freight to pick up my new 2 ton shop hoist, leveler, and engine stand! and the best part is i get to put them all together! i'm so excited, i can hardly contain myself. okay just wanted all you all to know!have a great weekend, i know i will!-wille. p.s. oh and by the way all 3 tools only cost me $254! what a steal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Good upgrade on the engine leveler.Here are two other tips for you:If you have any junkyards near by, hit them and look for anything with a small-block Chevy in it (up to the early '80s). On the front and back of the engine, at the heads, you will see steel tabs with a bolt hole in one end and and a large hole in the other. The bolt hole side bolts to the head, the big hole is for a chain hoist hook. I've seen two styles: one has a single bolt hole, the other has two holes and a cut-out to stradle an intake runner. Look for the single hole versions. These are pretty much universal, and will work nicely on your nail head. (I've got four of each style, and paid about 5 bucks for them all). It's far better than bolting a chain to any threaded hole you can find.The second tip is for a drip pan. Look in the phone book for "restaraunt suppliers or equipment," and find a place that sells used equipment. They'll have large sheet pans (or "bun pans"), that are about 24x36, aluminum, and have a very nice raised lip with a rolled edge all the way around it. Be sure to get them used. They'll usually have a stack of them. Pay between $3-$5 each. Then set it under your engine (or pop-rivet it to the new stand) to keep your garage floor clean. Having a couple on hand is handy (fill them with absorb-all, and they make a great drip pan for the leakers in your family).-Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted September 6, 2002 Author Share Posted September 6, 2002 thanks for the tips brad!oh it almost 6 p.m. i can't wait to get off work and get to work my baby!i love friday nights! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Hey guys - just out of curiosity - is the case on a 53 Dynaflow cast iron like on a 55? Do you recommend pulling the engine and tranny out together or just the engine and leave the tranny in the car. I understand the pre 56 dynaflows with the cast iron cases weigh almost 1200 lbs - is that right?Also, the engine/tranny is a 3 point mount. What do you recommend be used to hold the transmission up in place when the engine is out and only the rear mount is in place - chain across the crossmembers?Last - any tricks for getting at the top bellhousing bolts? This is usually pretty tight quarters.A piece of advice - I think you have to mark the position of the flywheel and torque converter so you align them back up properly when you hook the engine back up to the trans. Somebody check me on that.thanks - this is a good thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judd Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Ken I'd leave the trans in my 56 so I wouldn't have to line the splines at the torque ball up with drive shaft. A real pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 53and61 Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Regarding those miserable top bell housing bolts: purists will cringe, but when I did mine (a Series 40), I removed the carpet and cut openings high in the tranny hump of the floor pan. Patched the openings with galvanized sheet metal plates, caulk, and sheet metal screws. I'd guess the cast iron dynaflow weighs around 300 pounds--no problem to maneuvre with a decent tranny jack. As I recall, the converter and flywheel had to go together the same way as they came apart to preserve balance (assuming you keep the same parts). Be sure to have the car high enough to get the tranny and jack out--higher than I would have guessed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WillBilly53 Posted September 9, 2002 Author Share Posted September 9, 2002 i've taken all the bolts out from the bell housing, front mounts and disconnected EVERYTHING. i've got the chains from my engine hoist bolted on to the head bolts with washers. i can NOT get this thing out. there's a visible 3/4 of an inch space between the engine and tranny showing the torque converter. how do i get my engine out!? can anyone help? please! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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