Martin56 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) Hi, Already had a topic in the me and my Buick topic but start new one here on advice from the admins. I have a new question, this time about the body to chassis mounts. The first mount, seen from the front. Net to the radiator. Does there have to be a rubber mount as well? Mine is filled with steel plates. Kind regards, Martin Edited January 23, 2017 by MrEarl Clarify title (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 All mounts are rubber. My teeth are rattling just looking at that..............................Bob 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Bob is right, these should be rubber squares you must have lots of vibrations... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 I do have a lot of vibrations that is why i was searching under the car to solve this i found these. Also found some lose bolts. And some old dryout rubbers in my supsension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 http://classicbuicks.com/Body_Mount.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 12, 2017 Share Posted January 12, 2017 Using old rubbers increase the risk of unwanted accidents... 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 14 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: http://classicbuicks.com/Body_Mount.html thank you for the link, but witch one was normaly used for a 56 Special coupé? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 1 hour ago, Martin56 said: thank you for the link, but witch one was normaly used for a 56 Special coupé? Above my pay grade. I just measured the old ones on my car and ordered appropriately. Do you still have one mount with the old rubber in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Just one question, why was this metal used instead of rubber insulation? Was this an attempt at shimming a body panel to align with the surrounding panels? This looks like a fender that is possibly shimmed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 The original set up on my 55's was a fibered pad with shims as needed. The pad is the same as used on convertibles in all locations (first choice on the link in post #7). I made some pads on one of mine (still in service) from an old radiator hose...2 pads plus shims on each side. The rubber will keep it from squeaking. Yours seems to have homemade shims...you may need to retain some or all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 (edited) 10 minutes ago, old-tank said: The original set up on my 55's was a fibered pad with shims as needed. The pad is the same as used on convertibles in all locations (first choice on the link in post #7). I made some pads on one of mine (still in service) from an old radiator hose...2 pads plus shims on each side. The rubber will keep it from squeaking. Yours seems to have homemade shims...you may need to retain some or all. This makes perfect sense. I would image then two pieces of rubber could be placed on top and bottom of the current shim as shown in the picture. Edited January 13, 2017 by avgwarhawk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 I found out that there is a transmission oil cooler in the factory radiator. My Buick have An aftermarked oilcooler in front of the radiator. I was wondering how this was connected originally and if somebody have some experience with 2 coolers on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 It was connected with steel lines from the transmission. The cooler is just a pipe that goes through the bottom of the radiator. Depending on the type of external cooler, it should work better. The stock cooler is a fluid transfer that cools the transmission by using the engine coolant. If your transmission overheats, your engine overheats. The term cooler is also subjective considering the coolant normalizes around 180-195 degrees F so you're not really cooling the lines any more than normal operation temps. Running it in line would be like a pre-heater. Others have opinions on this subject. When I had my Dynaflow rebuilt, I was told the cooler the transmission the longer it'll last and they pointed me to a horizontal ribbed HD Hayden cooler. I haven't looked back. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 As Benjamin said, it is just a coil that runs through the radiator. Pump line in and return line out. Works ok but not like a independent unit. And I concur, heat will kill a transmission. If I remember correctly the early Dyna Flo has a small cooler off the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 On 1/13/2017 at 11:21 AM, old-tank said: I made some pads on one of mine (still in service) from an old radiator hose... Excellent material for pads, muffler hangers, etc is rubber conveyer belting from a quarry or mine. Usually about 1/2" or so thick and Kevlar reinforced. Quite common stuff around here. If anyone needs some they can have it for the cost of shipping............Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 Thank you all for the answers! Can somebody tell me how to connect the wires for the blower motor and the low and high switch for this? I prefer easy comments, i am not really and electrical engineer. I am missing the 2 White blocks connected between the wires of this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) The white blocks I'm guessing are the ballast resistors. The correct replacement resistor for the blower is a 1.35 ohm resistor, which is part number ICR11 at NAPA. You can look up the interchange and get it anywhere local. Basically the high setting wire (brown) will be connected to the resistor with the blower motor on the same terminal, while the low setting wire (yellow?) is on the other resistor terminal. Edited February 1, 2017 by Beemon (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 On 1-2-2017 at 11:32 PM, Beemon said: The white blocks I'm guessing are the ballast resistors. The correct replacement resistor for the blower is a 1.35 ohm resistor, which is part number ICR11 at NAPA. You can look up the interchange and get it anywhere local. Basically the high setting wire (brown) will be connected to the resistor with the blower motor on the same terminal, while the low setting wire (yellow?) is on the other resistor terminal. Those White resistors are they Both 1.35? Or is that only the big one? I need Them Both. I now have a good blower motor and i have a part of the wires that Comes from the remote panel under the Dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 No, the ignition resistor is 1.82 if I remember correctly, ICR13. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted March 6, 2017 Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Hi guys, Still not finished my blower motor. I buy the big resistor and looked to a wiring diagram how to connect everything. That is clear. But i couldnt find out where the smaller resistor needs for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 The smaller resistor is for the ignition system, where it reduces voltage across the points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted April 15, 2017 Author Share Posted April 15, 2017 Hi, The blowermotor is working properly thanks for helping! Next question, the Horn button doesnt work as it should, when turning the steeringwheel the Horn goes on. I looked inside and in my shopmanual and in think i'am missing something. See picture for what i have. Does anybody now the answer for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 You are missing parts: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Could it also be the brass bushing in the steering column? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin56 Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 16 hours ago, Beemon said: Could it also be the brass bushing in the steering column? It depends on how tight i put the adjusting nut. If i loosen IT a bit it stops but Then i cant use the Horn properly Are the isulators and contact plate new for sale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 6 hours ago, Martin56 said: Are the isulators and contact plate new for sale? Nope, unless you have some to match up. Intact parts car and use a zip tie to keep everything in the right order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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