shelbyone Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 Hey there TC friends...I am about to switch doors from a parts car to mine...door hinge pins are on their way in the mail...started to take donor vehicle door apart and was wondering, if I have to disconnect all wires inside the door shell and pull them out of the little hole with the rubber grommet or is there a way to disconnect within the car so the entire process could be streamlined...also..passenger side power window does not work..dang.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted December 8, 2016 Share Posted December 8, 2016 (edited) On 12/7/2016 at 7:43 PM, shelbyone said: Hey there TC friends...I am about to switch doors from a parts car to mine...door hinge pins are on their way in the mail...started to take donor vehicle door apart and was wondering, if I have to disconnect all wires inside the door shell and pull them out of the little hole with the rubber grommet or is there a way to disconnect within the car so the entire process could be streamlined...also..passenger side power window does not work..dang.. Here you go, you might want to try it this way. Disconnect wiring in A post (kick panel) Now that I look closer, the wiring going to the right door does not appear to have a quick disconnect anywhere in the area. Check out donor car first. Maybe cutting and splicing wiring to right door in left kick panel area would be simpler. It looks like no easy way. Then again, you should be very familiar to 'cut and splice' form your "Day Job". Edited December 9, 2016 by Hemi Dude (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Dang it....I thought I wrote a very detailed explanation on how to remove the door last week. The wiring is a gigantic pain on the driver's door. As I recall from stripping 2 TC's this year, I'm fairly certain that the door wiring actually goes all the way over to the other side of the car. It's a HUGE pain! I *think* you can get the wiring out of the door by wrestling with it through the hole in the door, but to do it it's best to have the front fender off. Do everything you can NOT to cut/splice! You are really asking for trouble down the line if you decide to go that route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted December 12, 2016 Share Posted December 12, 2016 Reaper, If it was NOT my friend Shelbyone, I would not suggest 'Cut and Splice'. But I know he would be up to splicing half a dozen wires after the engine harness he provided me with many years ago. And YES, I'm aware that the wire harness goes across to the passenger door as indicated in the picture I sent him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyone Posted December 12, 2016 Author Share Posted December 12, 2016 thanks for the pic - I started with the donor car and will probably route every single cable through that little hole.....thats still ahead of me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nile Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 A couple years back I got the chance to get a bunch of parts off a TC, including doors, that showed up at our local PicAPart. The passenger side door has 3 quick disconnect plugs (red, blue & black) and 1 gray wire, which I cut, so that side should be easy. Then there's the driver's side - I couldn't find any disconnects (fender & interior panel were off so I had pretty good access). I'll try to attach a pic. Good Luck - Nile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Hemi, I wasn't trying to slight you. I don't think you took it that way, but wanted to make sure. The driver door actually has a LOT of wires: window motor, door lock, courtesy lights, remote & heated mirrors, door lock switch, all 4 window switches, remote mirror knob, and speaker with amp. I was actually stunned that it didn't have connectors at the A-pillar because thinking about how that would have to be done on the line....maybe going together was easier? LOL Anyway, if it weren't that many things, cut and splice wouldn't sound too horrible, but because of where all of it is located and what it controls and blah blah blah...yeah...I would do everything I could to NOT do that. Maybe adding real connectors like we all think should be there anyway would be a good solution/compromise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyone Posted December 14, 2016 Author Share Posted December 14, 2016 thanks for all the input....I will try to avoid cutting anything and just be careful to get all the cables out and back in...and just got done with removing all wires without cutting and without removing the front fender ( that I just replaced so I did not feel like taking it off one more time..) now I only have to remove the hinge pins, get the door out and transplant it over to my car...will update with pics... btw; it took a while to remove and disconnect everything but the actual removal of the cable was not that hard..I had to wiggle for maybe 7 minutes and it all came out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyone Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 door switch complete after 3 hours for both ( including reconnecting all wires but excluding door panel installation. donor door looks great since it does not have any dents...but the lower portion of the door does not really align with the body...my old door on the other car is perfectly seated... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Dude Posted December 17, 2016 Share Posted December 17, 2016 On 12/15/2016 at 10:41 PM, shelbyone said: On 12/15/2016 at 10:41 PM, shelbyone said: ..but the lower portion of the door does not really align with the body... Bummer, since the hinges are welded to the door. It makes a person wonder how they align the doors at the factory. I looked at my Voyager, it is the same, welded at the doors and bolted at the body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reaper1 Posted December 19, 2016 Share Posted December 19, 2016 Isn't there a giant door alignment tool that is basically a big pry bar that hooks on to the hinge and allows it to be "tweaked"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyone Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 I was able to adjust the front fender outwards to make it look much better...anyway...its a done job and I can somehow live with the fact that its slightly off...main thin is, I have a new door... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Reichert Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 stop by a body shop and see what they say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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