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1968 riviera inboard headlights


mach1

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The outer lamps are 'Hi' and 'Low' beam, while the inner lamps are 'Hi' beam only Felix.

 They are controlled by the 'foot type' dimmer switch located on the upper left hand corner of the driver's floor panel.

There is a 'Hi' beam indicator in the instrument cluster to let you know the 'Hi' beam lamps are on.

On these old cars, rust and corrosion are quite common for faulty electrical circuits, and it is necessary to check and clean all wiring connections to ensure no electrical 'gremlins' cause any problems. All the chassis ground connections should be checked and cleaned too!

Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
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                    Since you state that the high beams on the outer lights work, that eliminates the dimmer switch 

being the problem. The most likely problem is that you have two burned out inner high beam bulbs. You need to

get at the wiring going to one of those bulbs and check for power and ground with a test light.

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I did check the floor hi beam switch and it was ok and dash light works.

So what you guys are saying is that all 4 headlights come on when hi beam selected.

I will check for power at the connectors on the inner headlights.

Thanks

 

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59 minutes ago, mach1 said:

I did check the floor hi beam switch and it was ok and dash light works.

So what you guys are saying is that all 4 headlights come on when hi beam selected.

I will check for power at the connectors on the inner headlights.

Thanks

 

Gentle on those bulb terminal tabs. Break off easy! :wacko:

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Hi Felix,

no doubt you will need to change them over (High/Low beam) to comply with RH drive laws ( lights must dip to the left) and a good option is to upgrade them to haleogen inserts with replaceable globes, however aftermarket sealed beams are still out there too.

 

For my 63 used a pair of aftermarket lamp shells with a rounded dome front ( not flat like so many conversion kits) from a Bursons store near me and put in some QH globes that I had stored away. These match the rounded front of the standard lamps to keep up appearances ( keep it looking original) Can see now, especially at night too!

 

as Seafoam65 mentions, you may need to clean up a lot of terminals, including the ground (earth terminal ) to ensure good contact. I used a Dremel with small wire wheel to  remove 50+ years of corrosion on all headlight, horn, relay and numerous other connections and so many things came to life. The terminals can be eased out of their plastic housings with a fine flat screw driver, giving you access to the brass connections. These are often black by now but clean up really well and amazing, everything works again!

 

I would start at the lamp terminals and work my way back to the switch terminals before looking at anything else, besides for one lamp to be blown, could be the case, but unusual for both. Let us know how you get on.

Rodney

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59 minutes ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

 

as Seafoam65 mentions, you may need to clean up a lot of terminals, including the ground (earth terminal ) to ensure good contact. I used a Dremel with small wire wheel to  remove 50+ years of corrosion on all headlight, horn, relay and numerous other connections and so many things came to life. The terminals can be eased out of their plastic housings with a fine flat screw driver, giving you access to the brass connections. These are often black by now but clean up really well and amazing, everything works again!

 

 

 . . . not that it matters Rodney, but that was my advice to Felix !

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