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Front/Rear oil filled shocks


Beemon

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Are these serviceable? I replaced mine with gas shocks, but kept all four of mine because I guess I'm a hoarder (mother made me toss the mufflers because they were too big, kind of regret that one). I hear oil shocks are the ones to get, but mine were seeping oil and would jerk both ends of the car up and down on acceleration/braking.

 

Just looking for things to do while the car is in storage...

 

Thanks in advance!

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In circa 1966, AC-Delco had a "kit" of two shocks and different valving mechanisms, which they sold.  Think Carter Carb "Strip Kit" for shocks.  With one pair of shocks, you could change the valves and have a smoooooth ride or a stiffffff ride, at will.  Or you could make your own 90/10 front shocks for drag racing.  As neat as that idea was, it only lasted about one year.

 

NTX5467

 

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IF you want a farty hard ride then get gas shocks but if you want a true Buick boulevard ride that the Buick engineers designed your suspension for in the first place, then go with original hydraulic shocks.

 

For Original Type Hydraulic Shocks, P1011 is the Delco Pleasurizer part number for your application, however the Delco book does not show a Pleasurizer HD shock for year 57 or model specific. Only a standard Pleasurizer oil charged shock is listed or a Pleasure-Lift (air shock) is shown in the Delco book.  Most likely because the shock application is already H.D. because it is for a 4,500 pound car.  If it was a chevy or ford they list H.D. applications as these were much lighter cars.  So this tells you what part number to look for.  

 

Also, you might want to give these guys a call as they may be able to rebuild yours or sell you new ones….. or tell you where to go to get it done :  http://www.shocks2springs.com/BUICK-HYDRAULIC-EXTRA-HEAVY-DUTY-SHOCKS_c_1089.html

 

or perhaps this guy who sells on ebay …. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-SET-OF-GM-REAR-SHOCKS-P-N-1154160-CHEVROLET-PONTIAC-BUICK-OLDSMOBILE-/271831819771?hash=item3f4a7065fb:g:9B0AAOSwNSxVJAM1&vxp=mtr&autorefresh=true

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On the Monroe Shock eCatalog, it lists "31000" for the rear.  Also fits LOTS of other vehicles, which is why it's still around.  1 3/16" bore gas charged

In OESpectrum, it lists "5759" for the front.  gas charged 1 3/16" bore   looks like rear might be OESpectrum "37040"

 

From RockAuto:  Gabiel list "82087" for the front.  Shows Buicks up to 1964    This is in the "Classic" line    1 3/16" bore

Interpolating from the other rear shock applications, in Gabriel  it lists "82003" in the "Classic line"

 

To completely verify "fit", you'll need the extended length and compressed length measurements.

 

Yes, some of these do cross with Chevrolet light truck applications.

 

The gold Delco Pleasurizers (which had a "gas bag" to decrease aeration of the fluid) have not been around since the early 1970s, so they'd only be around at swap meets and such.  An old Monroe or Gabriel paper catalog from the later 1960s would be a good resource (essentially while those cars were still "used cars").

 

NTX5467

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Don't even think of buying any of that old, old stuff.  It was junk back them (we just did not know it, since it was all that was available) and will fail in 15,000 miles... or sooner since the seals have aged.  Your rear is more sensitive than mine if you can tell the difference between (functioning) original and the replacement low pressure gas shocks.  In the past there was a big difference in brands.  Example:  Monroe controlled only the rebound; Gabriel controlled compression and rebound.

 For your 56 replace with something that fits and functions.

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In the middle 1960s, for example, the stock OEM shocks were 1" bore shocks.  For many 15K miles was the typical mileage when the "got bouncy", depending upon your tolerance of such situations.  The HD shocks were 1 3/16" bore shocks.  The Monroe Super 500 was the premier shock for many vehicles, including GM full size cars.  My service station operative (back then) said that they'd take all of the bounce out or an Olds 98 (a customer's car) and make it solid and stable, better than new.  Monroe also built the shocks for Chrysler (with the MAECO stamp on the tube . . . Monroe Auto Equipment Company).  The OEM HD shocks were MAECO shocks.  They did well on our '66 Newport, but when the fronts started getting a little weak, we put Gabriel Striders on the front.  They worked well, even better.

 

Now, 50 years later, the shock absorber landscape is somewhat different.  In looking at the Buick-application shocks, replacement shocks, they don't fit just Buicks.  That existed back then, too, as the replacement shocks were generally firmer than the OEM standard shocks.  We just didn't bother to see that stuff back then.

 

I got some Gabriel shocks for the front of my '77 Camaro.  I normally had KONIs on it, but finances were short and the "saved receipts" had become "pulp" from vermits, so no way to prove purchase for the lifetime warranty.  The shocks fit and worked, but the front end of that Camaro "felt like a Buick", weak and floaty compared to other shocks I'd had on it, other than the KONIs.  They also fit '57 Chevy fronts, too.  Hard to imagine a '57 Chevy riding that way!

 

By the time I decided to get some shocks for my '68 5467, it was hard to find some of the earlier dialogue on the Delco shocks at that time.  I didn't want anything super stiff, but just "firm".  I got the basic Delco gas shock and put them on.  Not sure of the piston bore, but they were low pressure gas shocks.  I was surprised and very pleased that it was smoooooth AND firm  Made it a joy to drive!

 

In more recent times, we don't know how many application consolidations have happened with shock absorbers.  Possibly no more than back when the cars were "used cars".  Just that we never tended to look at the Buyers Guide section of the catalog to check what else they fit.  Now, it's easier to find that information in the electronic catalogs.  Once you get the information for one shock, going through the various catalogs (as I did above) can yield fitments which aren't cataloged per se but can work.

 

BTW, In the Monroe catalog, they also have a section on replacement kits for vehicles where the air suspension or OEM electronic shocks are no longer available.  For grins, I put "1958 Buick Roadmaster" in the search and found a part number for the kit!  NOT sure if it'll fit and work, but they do have a number for it!

 

Sometimes, too, the OEM engineers (and the particular brand orientations) could "play tricks" with shocks, too.  The same valving might work for a Buick Super as an Olds 88, but with the different mounting methods, different part numbers . . . . unless in the aftermarket you bought the particular shock and then got the "attachment kit" for the particular vehicle brand.  Just wanted to mention that.

 

In more recent times, finding something that fits and works can be more important than "std" or "HD".  Full specs are in the catalogs or on appropriate links to the part numbers in Rock Auto.  Having matching bore diameters, front and rear, is a definite consideration.

 

NTX5467

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Thanks for the info, guys.

 

I wonder, if these old oil shocks are junk anyways, maybe there's a way to drill and tap a pet cock to drain the old oil out and fill with new oil? I guess you would have to mount a magnet somewhere, also, since the shavings from the drill and tap would be present inside.

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I'm wondering if on one side you could have a one way fill valve installed and a drain pet cock (or some way to pull vacuum to suck all the oil out) on the other that way you could experiment with different shock absorbance rates while it is still mounted on the car. Kind of like air shocks? I've just always heard gas is inferior to oil but I wouldn't know any better. 

 

I guess I have a winter project lined up, lol. I guess the hardest part would be to isolate and seal the leak. 

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As long as you're "What if . . . "ing, you might research motorcycle shocks. They ARE serviceable AND tunable in their valving.  Not to forget about the different "shock oil" viscosities!  AND syn-fluid or dino-fluid and how temperature can affect either one.

 

Remember the "deflected disc" valving of the Buick DynaRide suspension (standard suspension) in the earlier 1990s (IIRC), that's how the motorcycle shocks are set-up.  Discs of varying thickness and stiffness which progressively open the access to orifices through which the shock oil moves.  Other shocks/struts use spring-loaded valves, in multiple stages, to do the deal.  Now, the buzz words in shock absorber "tech" are "velocity proportional valving", regardless of brand.  And then there are the particular brand of Monroe shocks that have bypass grooves in the cylinder bore (in the comfort zone).

 

Remember, too, that as the piston moves through the oil, the oil will be on both sides of the piston at the same time.  In the pre-gas era, at the time of installation you had to stroke the shock a few times (compress and then extend it, manually) to purge any accumulated air "out of the system".  It was said that the "air" got in there as the shocks were laid horizontally during storage, but this didn't happen if they were stored more vertical, allegedly.  Therefore, one entry port and one vacuum port might not work quite as you desire.

 

Seems like there are some European brand cars which had "re-fillable" shocks?  Peugot, possibly?

 

NTX5467

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