Going to look at a Hudson big boy, any pointers?

[auburnseeker]

Nice work. Looks great. I wish mine had had that quality of work done.  It's not bad just not top notch.

I did get the wheel.  I also just picked up a radio with a really nice copper face.  The case looks very good as well.  It's probably non op,  but it was worth it for the cosmetics.  I could either have it fixed or buy one of the rebuilt ones on ebay with the bad face and case and swap out the chassis. 

I'm looking for a few other parts.  I'll send you a PM.

[Xander Wildeisen]

On 7/27/2016 at 10:30 PM, auburnseeker said:

I've been on a search for a Hudson Pickup as many of you know and I have found one that falls in my price range, is close enough to look at, and has a couple of desirable upgrades.

I was contacted through one of my wanted ads about this truck.  It has a Wasp dual carb motor from what I have been told by someone that knows about the truck and a swapped in 9 inch Ford rear for better gearing.  Otherwise it's fairly stock.  The body looks pretty good from what I can tell and the underneath appears a bit oily but pretty clean especially for a truck in my area. 

The interior is incorrect but it doesn't get much simpler to reupholster.  

Under the hood looks a bit crusty but the underneath looks alot better. 

Any pointers or things I should look for?  It would be my first Hudson and the first one I have gone to look at.

One other thing on your tuck, And this is a strange one that Hudson did. The bar under the front bumper when you look at the front shot of your truck. You will see a grove in the face of it, and then two flat spots. If you were to move your front bumper guards inward, you will see another mounting hole in the bumper. By doing that, the bumper guards will now land on the flat spot on that bar, and sit in between the groves. And then the bumper guard will then be bolted to the bumper brace as well. For some reason in 1947 Hudson moved the bumper guards outward. My guess is it was done because fog lights could then be mounted in the grill. That is one way to tell if a bumper is from a 46 or 47. The 47 will have a extra mounting holes. I think they look better mounted in the center of the groves on the lower bar, plus then it is bolted to the bumper brace. Just one thing that is never noticed. In the picture you will see the guards on this truck mounted in the center of the groves. 

[Xander Wildeisen]

you will also see in the picture of the black truck. The stainless trim around the front windshield. That is from a Hudson car, and fits over the pinch weld. And does need a different windshield gasket, if a person wanted to add that on a truck.

[Xander Wildeisen]

On 7/27/2016 at 10:30 PM, auburnseeker said:

 

Here are some shots of the dash in the Hudson truck. Just finished the wood grain. The dash is out of a 53 Desoto, and reshaped to fit. Has mahogany grain on top, running down on the gauge cluster. And burl wood on the face of the dash. Side garnish rails will be split as well, center console will pick up the top mahogany grain. Wet sanding/buffing on the cab and dash will be done today. And then hang the doors.  

[auburnseeker]

Looks good.  All I've managed to do is some wet sanding and buffing on my truck.  Makes a world of difference in the finish.  I thought of wood graining my Dash if I decide to get really into my project.  Just buffing it out made it look 100 times better.  I did get the 53 Hornet wheel in the mail and the plastic is in amazing condition.  It will look good if I redo the interior in a similar dark red/ maroon color which will go much nicer with the Silver / gray finish. 

I did pick up a super nice radio but I'm missing the correct knobs.  I have a pair of headlight doors being rechromed now and a pair of vent windows.  Now I just need a nice pair of division bars for the vent windows. 

[auburnseeker]

Update on my Hudson Project.  As usual they are never as road ready as the seller claims.

I kind of figured that though.  

I tore into the brakes.  The front cylinders were shot, one piston was even seized.  One brake hose was badly checked as well.  The master Cylinder was/is rough so for the price I ordered a whole new set even though the rear brakes aren't Hudson on my truck.  It was cheap enough to go that route.  That gave me a new Master and new front Cylinders as well as new hoses.  For around 230.00 .  I also ordered in a new jug of Silicone brake fluid.  Do it once and forget about it.  The rear cylinders actually looks really good,  so I'll give them a light hone at the shop tomorrow and some new cups to be on the safe side.  I disassembled all the cylinders and shot them with cast gray.  I can't stand seeing new cast parts on a restored car (which this isn't)  that are all surface rust, especially when the rest of the undercarriage glows in the dark. 

I was hoping to get by with the tires for a few local drives this fall but the first one I pulled off had a surprise on the inside.  The rest of the tire looked excellent.  So I had to order in a new set of Hancooks for it.  

I got to try out my new old torture tools I picked up a few weeks ago at a garage they were tearing down.  Nothing like hand mounting and demounting tires.  Gives you and your vocabulary a good work out.  I will say,  these sure do beat the 2 pry bars I used to use. 

I also have been working on the interior and exterior finishes.  I have the dash and interior trim in pretty good order. i also was able to find a really nice correct radio that I still have to install.    The front trim also cleaned up pretty well.  I have a set of Rechromed Headlight bezels and a rechromed hood end molding  coming.  

I wet sanded and buffed out half the hood and part of the cowl.  takes it from a 10-15 to a nearly 5 footer.  You can't beat the shine of smooth paint.

Hopefully tomorrow the tires will be stretched enough to mount and I'll get the brakes flushed and back together.  The wife is getting anxious for me to get the garage finished but this is in the way at the moment. 

Edited August 31, 2016 by auburnseeker (see edit history)

[Xander Wildeisen]

On 7/27/2016 at 10:30 PM, auburnseeker said:

 

Here is where I am at. Cab and doors are sanded and buffed out. Will start putting stuff together on the cab, and keep sanding,and sanding,and sanding,and sanding,and sanding on the other parts.Truck will have the shop name on the door. turning out a pretty good for a shop truck. I think the Packard colors look good.

[auburnseeker]

I wasn't crazy about the tutone gray on mine but after having it a while it looks good. 

[Xander Wildeisen]

On 7/27/2016 at 10:30 PM, auburnseeker said:

 

You have a great looking truck, drive and enjoy it. They get a lot of looks by people.

[auburnseeker]

Thanks.  Not quite the caliber of yours but then again I didn't do the work on it.  I'm just cleaning up what was already their.  I hope to get it on the road this weekend.  One wheel cylinder in the 9 inch Ford rear was bad.  It won't be in until tomorrow.  I had 3 NOS ones for the opposite side on my shelf.   Figures. 

[Xander Wildeisen]

It does not matter how nice they are, on the road is on the road.

[Xander Wildeisen]

Here are a few shots of the Hudson truck, showing what has been done. Cab has been insulated, wired, glass installed, trim going on and the bed is painted and on the truck. Fuel system will be next, and then back to sanding other parts.

[auburnseeker]

Nice job on the build.  I have had mine out a few times but just to work in the garage.  It really needs a good going over as it just doesn't seem right at idle.  I also need to go over the brakes one more time and fine tune the adjustments s they seem not quite right.  

MY shop sale and moving to/ prepping my existing garage has been all consuming.

I have to get my heater hooked up shortly as I'm heating it with a thermostatically controlled salamander right now.  

 

[Xander Wildeisen]

The 262 with Twin-H should be a great running engine, you might have some cracks in the manifold. I can send some pictures of where to look. Maybe a Hudson guy has some shots handy and can post them. They can rust out in the center, or crack from age and heat where the exhaust warms the intake in the center. Keep that Cord inside and safe.

[auburnseeker]

Right now I don't hear or see any exhaust leaks/ cracks in the manifold.  It's the later 54 or 55 Intake/ exhaust.   Seems to run cool as well with no coolant loss.  

Don't worry about the Cord.  As you can see,  it's under  a tarp behind the garage in the snowbank

 

 

 

[Xander Wildeisen]

Great shots of my Cord, I have always liked the styling of those cars. Nice Hot rod, Looks like a 32 5 window with the roof cut off. I thought you guys were all original car people, looks like there are some custom people floating around this forum. I count three cars/trucks with different drive trains in there. The cracks happen in the intake where it bolts to the exhaust manifold on the under side, I will get you a picture , I think I have one unbolted from the exhaust. Here are a few shots of my shop from earlier this year, when I repainted the inside. Not fun moving stuff around to paint. The shop had been white inside for ten years, and I wanted to change it up a bit. Some of the colors are left over from when we painted the inside of the house.  The window in the wall of your shop that is in front of the Cord looks like it should be up in a vault. Is that a reclaimed window? (not trying to get off topic and get in trouble again) 

 

[F&J]

12 hours ago, Xander Wildeisen said:

Nice Hot rod, Looks like a 32 5 window with the roof cut off.

Looks genuine 32 Cabriolet from what is shown, like the type of windshield header.

 

The padded top boot is a common 1950s hotrod feature on cabriolets that have had the the top mechanism removed.  That boot design fills in the "dip" in the top of the quarter panel.

[Xander Wildeisen]

2 minutes ago, F&J said:

Looks genuine 32 Cabriolet from what is shown, like the type of windshield header.

 

The padded top boot is a common 1950s hotrod feature on cabriolets that have had the the top mechanism removed.  That boot design fills in the "dip" in the top of the quarter panel.

Have seen coupes built to look just like that. Not sure why you would remove a convertible top? A lot of customs were built and the convertible top removed for a carson style top. I would rather have the convertible top.Here are some shots of a 1937 ford five window coupe. Roof was cut off and reshaped into a three window, wrapped in convertible top material and made to unlatch and lift off. Doors stretched six inches, rear quarters shortened six inches. Nice 32 no matter what has been done to it. 

[F&J]

Have seen coupes built to look just like that. Not sure why you would remove a convertible top?

1 hour ago, Xander Wildeisen said:

It was more popular for rodders to remove the top for a sleeker look.  Even most 32 Ford roadsters are shown in 1950s pics without the top assembly.

 

 

my 32 5 window coupe body lost it's roof and doortops decades ago, so I made a fake cabriolet.

 

Edited November 23, 2016 by F&J (see edit history)

[JACK M]

My two cents.

I would never be able to go to darker colors in my shop.

It seems that I need all the light I can get.

The floor, walls and ceiling all included.

And lots of lights.

[Xander Wildeisen]

2 hours ago, F&J said:

 

 

 

my 32 5 window coupe body lost it's roof and doortops decades ago, so I made a fake cabriolet.

 

That was my point in the post above, of Auburnseekers 32. It looks like a coupe with the roof cut off. Take the roof off yours F&J and it would look like the one pictured above. My guess is convertible tops were removed to lighten up the car. I can see cutting the roof off a coupe to make a cabriolet, but if you had a cabriolet, removing the top would make it look like a cabriolet with out a top. The good part is with so many reproduction parts for those cars, a new top set up would be easy to get. All of the cars pictured a cool hot rods. It is always nice to see other peoples shop pictures, and projects. 

[auburnseeker]

It is a Genuine Cabriolet.  It didn't come with the top irons when I got it and since it's chopped I would need to cut them down to fit if I got a set.   Being I never drive it in the rain it was extremely low on the priority list.  I do have Cherry drying (It's real dry now as it's been 15 years) to make a lift off carson style top.  

I also pushed the seat back into the convertible top well when I built it for more leg room,  so stock irons probably wouldn't properly work. 

[F&J]

2 hours ago, Xander Wildeisen said:

if you had a cabriolet, removing the top would make it look like a cabriolet with out a top.

The 1950s hot rodders had their own styles, and you cannot look at a traditional 50s build style rod and have it make sense to a Y2K street rodder .  There is a huge difference between a traditional rod, versus a street rod, or restored, or restomod.

 

Aurburnseekers cabriolet is either a true survivor 50s rod, or "one of the best" recreations.  I say "best recreation" as so many Y2K folk try to redefine what styles and pieces were used in the 50s, and they build "clown cars" that they insist are traditional rods...but are just copying some new trends in so-called styling.  I have no idea why people insist on trying to rewrite the past, to fit their clown car build tastes.

 

 

That padded top boot when used on a chopped 32 cabriolet, really hits the style mark of the 50s, and his future plan for a Carson top, also would hit the 50s style perfectly.  BTW, I say 50s style, but these two features on cabriolets went a bit older, and a bit newer than just 1950s.

 

.

[auburnseeker]

It's funny you wrote a true survivor or one of the best recreations.  That's exactly what the writer for Street rodder magazine wrote in the article they featured it in.   It was the first time I took it to a show after building it and they did a feature on it.  I was only taking it to show the guys I had been talking to,  how it turned out.   I guess it turned out pretty good as they only shot 4 or 5 cars out of about 2000 for features and mine was one. Quite the honor as there were several very high quality cars in attendance and my car is far from a what pro rod shop could build   Of course I had a budget and had put 21,000  in it at that point finished to the point you see it. .  I've never been much into street rods,  I was more hot rod.  Stripped down,  streamlined and built to run fast.   (fast for the time of course)   I think alot of people that like early cars can appreciate well executed cars especially ones that really emulate early race and Indy cars. 

Feels fast driving it.  Probably because it's a raw experience much like early speedsters.   The wind noise and smell all come together to give one a rush that can't be duplicated in any other way. 

I've since really moved away from Rods and like everything as stock as possible.  Probably something to do with the amount of butchering and lack of vision in cars I have seen built lately. 

Some elements should never be combined and yet there is always someone out their that says oh yes they should.  Square headlights grafted into 40's cars,  neon paints on vintage cars,  High back bucket seats in 30's-50's convertibles.  Modern headlights in 1940's-1950's Chevy cars.  Just to name a few.