alini Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 After a complete inspection of our block, we cant use it any longer. The scoring in the cylinders is too far gone since it was already bored .040 over. Two of the cylinders were already sleeved, so further cutting is out of the question and I dont know that I want to invest as much money as needed in this block to sleeve all 8 bores....if the shop is even willing to remove the two sleeves and replace them, if thats possible. So I need a new block. Will any 401 nailhead fit, or is there things from specific years that I need to avoid??? I assume a 63-66 should work for a 65. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 `64 to `66 due to the mating of the turbo 400 and fitment of the snout of the converter into the counterbore of the rear of the crank. There are adapters to use earlier type engines/cranks but these years are a bolt in. Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 If I can get my crank cut and use the factory flexplate, is that the only difference or is the bellhousing different as well?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 It's the crank and the flexplate. Reusing your crank will allow you to bolt the ST400 to the block as is. You can use your starter along with the flex plate and the ST400. Here's a picture of a dynaflow flexplate, you can understand why they don't work with an ST400. The flange on the back of the crank is the difference. As stated earlier, adapter hubs are available to connect an ST400 flex plate to a dynaflow crank flange. If you do go with the '59 engine and use your crank or a crank flange adapter, you need to check with one of the experts to see which starter will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Chris, Has the block been sonic tested???? Because of the weight of the reciprocating assembly the bores need to be .150" thick. Most aren't this BRAND NEW FROM THE FACTORY. Add in core shift that was VERY prevalent from '62 on this becomes more of a significant problem. This is one of the 1st. things I do on ANY rebuild BEFORE doing ANYTHING. I've gone as FAR AS 4.280" on a 401 with NO adverse effects as far as the rebuild lasting. The one thing I do on ALL rebuilds, stock or otherwise, is I use an Epoxy to fill the coolant passages to the bottom of the BIG freeze plugs on the side of the block. This Epoxy strengthens the bottom of the block to help keep it from flexing & actually makes the rebuild last longer. It seems to have NO affect on oil temps. & actually runs cooler because the coolant is flowing where it's needed most, at the top of the block. For a few more $$$ it would be worth investigating BEFORE buying another block & would probably be less $$$ in the long run. Let's get this next rebuild right so you don't have to go through this yet again. I HATE to constantly hear these HORROR stories. Throwing good money after bad. We can discuss this over the phone if you would like. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 I have not had it tested, we are going to a machine shop tomorrow with the crank and block. My concern is that two cylinders were already sleeved due to a thrown rod long before I bought the car. Those sleeves are already thin as it is, and a crack halfway down the number 7 cylinder (viewable in through the freeze plug holes) means I already have an area thats not as supported as the rest of the cylinder walls. I doubt they would entertain cutting it any further, I doubt they would be willing to remove those sleeves and resleeve so we can sleeve the whole block and go back toward a factory 401 size. This is going to be a large cost to keep the numbers matching core in the car, but we will let them look at give their opinions since ultimately if they arent going to do the work Id be dead in the water anyway. Finding a new block is really the best alternative. I have found a few sources, I need to look at the benefits of each and cost and figure out what will work best for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 I'm sorry to hear about your misfortune Chris. If u can recall on my build thread, it turns out my Frankenstein build has a swapped 401 Nailhead block from a 62 Electra weird, I know right? Hope that helps broaden your search for a new block. 22 year ownership & I had no clue. With direction from guys on this forum I posted pix & it turns out my swap was done correctly. Seems as if ALL internals from my original block were swapped, including original flex plate, making for the marriage of my ST400 a success. Hope that helps… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 11 hours ago, alini said: I have not had it tested, we are going to a machine shop tomorrow with the crank and block. My concern is that two cylinders were already sleeved due to a thrown rod long before I bought the car. Those sleeves are already thin as it is, and a crack halfway down the number 7 cylinder (viewable in through the freeze plug holes) means I already have an area thats not as supported as the rest of the cylinder walls. I doubt they would entertain cutting it any further, I doubt they would be willing to remove those sleeves and resleeve so we can sleeve the whole block and go back toward a factory 401 size. This is going to be a large cost to keep the numbers matching core in the car, but we will let them look at give their opinions since ultimately if they arent going to do the work Id be dead in the water anyway. Finding a new block is really the best alternative. I have found a few sources, I need to look at the benefits of each and cost and figure out what will work best for me. Chris, Are we looking at the backside of the sleeve thru the crack in the original block in the last pic you posted? Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted March 30, 2016 Author Share Posted March 30, 2016 Yes, thats the wall of the number #7 cylinder as viewed through the freeze plug hole. The bottoms of the number 7 and 8 cylinders are also broken off so I can see just sleeve for about 1/2 inch. Granted there is no ring pressure down that far but the wall thickness is already thin as it is cutting it wont be an option and removing the sleeves will most likely not be an option. The car ran for years with this repair, but boring it out any further is a risk I dont think any shop would under take Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Chris, You are right. That block has seen it's demise because of poor workmanship from previous work. When the sleeve was originally installed it WASN'T bored enough & just forcefully pressed into place. NO REASON for such shoddy workmanship. I feel as you that the best possible solution is to find another block. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Riviera Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Stay with the 64 - 66 block . You might go 425 while at it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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