oscar Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Hello i am looking for a motor for my 32 Buick 4 door sedan the motor i have is full of rust and has head bolts broken off in the block Thanks Oscar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Broken bolts in the block are not a big deal. There are a number of ways to remove them. Here is one of the best ways that I have seen and probably the easiest if you have access to a welder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRrz-cphBY4 Rust in the block is normal for very old cars. IMO, many times it is better to fix the known what you have than buy something that you do not know the total condition. The biggest reasons to get a new engine are, 1. A rod broke and went through the side of the block, 2. Someone left water in the engine and it froze cracking the block, 3, The cylinders are extremely worn out and all would need to be sleeved to get the block into usable specifications. Just my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 You will need to specify the series of the car. I can see from the photo that it is not a 50 series. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Larry, I've seen that video. I can only wonder how tight that bolt was in the demo. A broken head bolt broke because it was frozen in the block assuming you broke it taking it out. Will the weld be stronger than the bolt that broke? Not sure of a better idea short of drilling it out and helicoil. I guess I'd soak the heck out of it with your favorite penetrant first and then try the nut trick first, can't hurt. Back to the engine search part of this post. Make sure you check for a cracked block before you do any investing in purchasing a block or machining it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Brian,Maybe this one will be better? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nd5JlMb81dc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzcarnerd Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Even though the pic of the body tag as too small, the job number looks to be 32009 which makes it a Series 50. Series 60 is 32059. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autodeco57 Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 I have two '32 engines, different from each other but both smaller than my '31 series 80. I conclude that one is a 50 series and the other a 60. They're quite a bit different in condition ( believe the 50 series is close to a runner.,..the one that appears to be the 60, in my recollection, was outdoors on the coast for years, so the accessories are useless, but I've got the pan off and the innards look pretty good. And of course I have no idea whether they're cracked or not. One or both are certainly available, but each weighs approximately was much as a midsize bulldozer so shipping would be a challenge. Anyway, if this might help, let me know if you're anywhere near the west coast (southern Oregon). By the way, I have front and rear ends from both running gears along with one of the transmissions. autodeco57 BCA #44510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Engle Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 The 50 series cars did NOT have the tube crossmember between the front frame horns. The tube was common to 60 80 and 90 series cars. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmg1959 Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 The for sale ad calls it a 56 model which can't be right either.From Craigslist in Franklin, PA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Sorry Larry, I'm not as lucky as that guy in the second video either. My bolts don't break off in aluminum, they strip the aluminum thread first, and then come out. And the ones that break off in cast iron do so with no portion of the broken bolt remaining proud if the surface like that guy. Ha. Signed, Broke in Michigan 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacrat Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 if you go to you tube a year ago i did a video ,1932 buick ray koreman,search,that is a 32 50.come get it.cheap.vancouver canada Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my31buick Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 are the engines for the 31 and 32 the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my31buick Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 also I wouldn't mind to see a few pictures of the engines that are for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pacrat Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 ya 31 32 only . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
autodeco57 Posted January 9, 2016 Share Posted January 9, 2016 Yes, 31 and 32 Buick 8's are the same three engines. The 60's are shorter than the 80/90 345's, and the 50's are shorter still. The 50's are the only ones without the distinctive external water manifold atop the head beside the valve cover. Attached are one or more pictures of the "32 50 series engine I have. I think the last picture is of the 60 as I don't remember taking off the exhaust manifold from the other one.Bear with me, Safari isn't taking my pictures...I'll try four.Steve Gorthy autodeco57 BCA 44510 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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