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63 Riviera cooling


Healeybob

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It is common for the fan clutch to be bad.  Did you get the replacement clutch with the coil spring on the front face?  If not, send it back and get the one with the coil spring.

 

You don't indicate in your profile where you are located.  If you are in a cool weather place right now and you are overheating, your radiator is probably plugged or bad from age.  How hot are you getting?  Do you know?  Do you know what temperature thermostat you have installed?

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Not sure on the fan clutch. I guess I wont know till I get it. It didnt have a pic. I am a certified aircraft mechanic so I am a trained mechanic. In addition to having a mechanical engineering degree. Just wondering if these Rivs have some common ailments. 

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Here's the photo of the one with the coil spring on front you want to use.  Hayden 2747 on RockAuto.com $37.79.  They also have one from Four Season for $45.89; I don't know if it is any better. I have heard my fan clutch kick in at 60 MPH (with the A/C on in the summer) and then cycle off.

 

 

 

2747-1__ra_p.jpg$45.89.

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                     The best way to diagnose what is going on is with a laser pointer temperature gun. This tool should be in everyone's tool box. With the engine warmed up, check the temp at the thermostat housing.....It should be thermostat temperature. If it is too

hot there, point the laser at various sections of the radiator core. If it has cool spots in the middle and the lower areas and it is hot

at the top, you have a radiator  that is   plugged up. If the water crossover pipe in front of the intake is showing overheating, and the upper hose is

cool, you have a stuck thermostat. If the engine is hot everywhere and the radiator shows overheated with no cool spots in the core,

you could have a head leak with combustion gases superheating the coolant. Use a head leak checker kit to check for this. If the blue

fluid in the checker kit turns yellow you have a head leak. Of course, make sure your fan is moving a lot of air and not free wheeling due to a bad fan clutch. Lastly, if the engine is hot and the radiator is not hot but

has no cool spots and the upper hose is warm not cold, you could have a water pump with corroded off blades or an impeller spinning on the shaft. This is a very rare ocurrence that is extremely unlikely  but not impossible. In my car repair business in the last 40 years I have seen this about five times.

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)
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Guest Dantana

On my 63 the radiator was clogged, I took it to the shop and they repaired some on the tubes so the coolant flowed properly. That fixed the issue. I also always run "water wetter" it will help tremendously. Other issues are the water pump and of course the fan clutch. I would also add a shroud if you don't already have one.

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Guest Dantana

                     The best way to diagnose what is going on is with a laser pointer temperature gun. This tool should be in everyone's tool box. With the engine warmed up, check the temp at the thermostat housing.....It should be thermostat temperature. If it is too

hot there, point the laser at various sections of the radiator core. If it has cool spots in the middle and the lower areas and it is hot

at the top, you have a radiator  that is   plugged up. If the water crossover pipe in front of the intake is showing overheating, and the upper hose is

cool, you have a stuck thermostat. If the engine is hot everywhere and the radiator shows overheated with no cool spots in the core,

you could have a head leak with combustion gases superheating the coolant. Use a head leak checker kit to check for this. If the blue

fluid in the checker kit turns yellow you have a head leak. Of course, make sure your fan is moving a lot of air and not free wheeling due to a bad fan clutch. Lastly, if the engine is hot and the radiator is not hot but

has no cool spots and the upper hose is warm not cold, you could have a water pump with corroded off blades or an impeller spinning on the shaft. This is a very rare occurrence that is extremely unlikely  but not impossible. In my car repair business in the last 40 years I have seen this about five times.

I will be getting one of those ASAP.

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The laser temp gauge is also a good way to check against an "indication problem". In addition to the scenarios Winston mentioned, sometimes you'll get a bad sender unit or malfunctioning gauge causing an incorrect indication. I have a Ford that recently starting randomly showing 250 degrees (pegged) at the gauge this summer. That got my attention, but the car was running perfectly. When I point the laser temp gun anywhere under the hood, it's running at just under 160 degrees. I relaxed a little but someday need to fix the problem. Also, the laser pointer is an excellent way to make your dog or cat run all over your garage chasing the red dot. PRL

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