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73 Full Throttle Trans Kickdown


JZRIV

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Wondering if anyone else with a 73 had this problem.

Driving the 73 this summer, I finally got around to checking why I had no full throttle transmission kick-down (passing gear). A check of the switch above the gas pedal quickly revealed why. The throttle linkage rod was barely touching the switch actuator even at full throttle. Once it contacts the actuator the switch then has to travel about another 1/2" before the contacts close. The

mounting design intentionally leaves no adjustment capability. I can't see how this arrangement ever worked from the factory. In total I had to move the switch actuator almost a 1/2" closer to get it to operate properly.

The only explanation would be that the switch contacts should close as soon as the switch moves maybe an 1/8" and my switch is not working properly requiring full travel before it closes. Anyone ever have this problem?

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Wondering if anyone else with a 73 had this problem.

Driving the 73 this summer, I finally got around to checking why I had no full throttle transmission kick-down (passing gear). A check of the switch above the gas pedal quickly revealed why. The throttle linkage rod was barely touching the switch actuator even at full throttle. Once it contacts the actuator the switch then has to travel about another 1/2" before the contacts close. The

mounting design intentionally leaves no adjustment capability. I can't see how this arrangement ever worked from the factory. In total I had to move the switch actuator almost a 1/2" closer to get it to operate properly.

The only explanation would be that the switch contacts should close as soon as the switch moves maybe an 1/8" and my switch is not working properly requiring full travel before it closes. Anyone ever have this problem?

Post a pic?

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The need for that much "upon contact" movement is probably designed-in for a reason.  You might see if there's a stamped  or printed part number on the switch to ensure it's the one your vehicle might need, first.  Might also be an incorrect accel pedal assy?

 

I did notice that, un-relatedly,  my parents' '72 Chrysler displayed "early upshift syndrome" when it was new.  It did have part-throttle upshifts, which we could adjust and play with to get it where it felt better in driving (which also affected the min-throttle upshifts, too, as it was a linkage adjustment).  My 1980 Chrysler (and other 72+ Chry products) had similar situations.

 

What I did with the '80 was to place a medium wire tie in the rear of the slot on the carb rod for the trans linkage. That added enough pre-load to raise the upshifts to where they needed to be.  Better than getting under the car to manually adjust the linkage!

 

What you might try is to find a piece of rubber hose to go over the "contact rod" on the switch.  Once you find a size of rubber hose to fit the switch's contact rod, then  you can find another size that will fit the OD of that piece of hose to increase the build thickness so that your carb linkage effectively hits the switch as you might desire.  Might need to put some tape on the rubber so everything slides together as the throttle linkage is depressed.  Plus ensure that WOT is not impede by the "spacer"!

 

NTX5467

Edited by NTX5467 (see edit history)
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Jason,

 

Knowing you and your work as I do, I almost hate to post this.  Have you taken the switch itself off of the bracket?  On my '64, which is a decade earlier, the holes in the bracket are oblong so that the switch can be moved forward and back to adjust when the kick-down can be activated.  I've never owned anything with a 455 and TH400 so I might just be barking up the wrong tree here.  Good luck.

 

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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NTX5467,

Funny you suggested the hose over the switch rod because that's the first thing I did. 3/8 fuel hose fit perfect. Still wasn't enough to activate switch. Attached pic shows setup. Originally the switch bracket has one bolt and two bent 90 degree tabs that interlock into two holes in the bracket so it can't rotate or slide. I flattened these tabs out and slotted the mounting bolt hole and finally got it operational. The shop manual states switch mounting has adjustment but there isn't any.

What a difference it makes having the kickdown functioning. The big car can move!

Ed and Randy

The 73s have the switch above gas pedal inside and not at intake like earlier gens.

Tom

attached pic

post-93929-0-30298300-1443459147_thumb.j

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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The '68 is also mounted above the gas pedal and inside just like the '73 Jason, similar to your pic.

. . . a properly adjusted downshift switch is like lighting the 'afterburner' !

I never noticed that Randy. Figured 8s and 9s were same as 67s. Probably changed that switch when the switch-pitch was dropped for 68 I suppose. So does your switch have any adjustment on it?

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