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trouble installing new fuel pump


jimy

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The fuel pump failed on my second series 1935 Dodge KC pickup. (turns out the pin that holds the rocker arm slid out of place)

 

I ordered a Carter M2090 pump as found at http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m2090

 

This pump appears identical in all ways with what was on my truck (restoration completed by someone else last Fall)

 

However I can't seem to get the new one in place.  I believe I have the rocker arm correctly against the cam, but the body of the pump won't lay flat against the engine block.  It is probably 1/8 inch or more away from the block. Am I missing a trick? 

 

ALSO - the failed pump (with the pin back in place) has the same issue when I try to put it in place.  When I took that pump off it seems like the gasket was pretty thick, along with a fair bit of RTV sealant. Is there any chance BOTH pumps are incorrect?  By the way this engine has had a bit of a tick/knock sound that I assumed could be corrected with a valve adjustment once I got a few hundred miles on it.  I could imagine a fuel pump with a slighly wrong rocker arm could have been making that noise)

 

thanks for any advice,

 

Jim Youngs

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I have not tried rotating the crankshaft.  Is that normal procedure for installing the fuel pump?  I understand doing so may allow for installation, but what happens when the cam lobe comes back around again?  Or is the current orientation preventing me from getting the fuel pump arm on the correct side of the cam?

 

thanks for your help...

 

Jim 

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I just took out my fuel pump and restored my vacuum tank never had a problem.

my advise is to gut that fuel pump because you will have flooding issues and a handful of other problems.

the vacuum tank is simple and will almost never fail you.

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Thanks for all the help - the pump is installed and the truck is running fine.

 

Having never replaced a mechanical fuel pump I made a wrong assumption.  I was assuming that the little wiggle of the pump arm that works against a small spring was the entire movement of the pump arm.  Of course the big spring is up next and that is where the real motion happens.

 

Jim

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For what it is worth, I seen lots of complaints about new pumps having the pivot pin work its way out. I don't think they are staking them like they used to. The repair kit I got from Antique Auto Parts Cellar had a longer pin with cir-clips (sp?) to keep it in place which I think is a good idea. I have read about someone else who did not need to do the full rebuild and so simply got a longer pin and clips to go with it from an industrial supply.

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