beerczar1976 Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Slowly working thru the brakes on my '50 Special. Over the weekend, I rebuilt the MC and installed new hoses to the front wheels. Rear center hose isn't getting replaced until I can get the car up on a lift or jack stands and seems to be in good condition; no dry rot or rust on fittings. Was holding off on wheel cylinder replacments, but I'll probably end up doing them anyway. Friction material on the shoes I have had a chance to check seems good. I'm thinking of probably having my drums turned, however...surprise, surprise! Right front drum is still riveted to the hub. I'll try to snap a picture later. Two rivets and 1 what looks like an alignment pin. But, this pin does not have the hexagon "wrench fitting" like the alignment pins on the rear wheels. I'm guessing the two rivets can be just drilled out, but how do you get the pin off/out? I know the rear pins are threaded into the drum and into the hub and feed thru the hole in the wheel. This front pin seems to have a rim/lip around it flush to the face of the drum. Do I cut it off? My front left drum no longer has the rivets in place, nor this pin. This of course also makes me wonder what the shoes and wheel cylinder look like on the front right considering the car has quite a bit of mileage on it...Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 You only remove the rivets/pin if you change the front drum. Remove the bearings to remove (they need service anyway). Don't turn the drums unless you are changing shoes --- they are already seated. If the shoes are bonded and unknown age, replace. New wheel cylinders are not that expensive and if you flush the brake fluid every 2 years, they will last 15+ years if driven regularly.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerczar1976 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 But don't I need to take the drum off to inspect/service/replace the shoes? I didn't realize that the bearings actually hold the front drums on. My front left doesn't have the rivets/pin any longer and the drum comes right off without removing the bearing. I think I understand about not turning the drums if I'm not replacing the shoes, as you said the shoes seat themselves and would have to be re-seated if the drums are turned down. As for the WCs, yes, they are pretty cheap and probably not worth rebuilding; very little price difference for kit vs. brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 The bearings hold the hub, which has the brake drum attached . I thought they were all that way until I started playing with Ford trucks, which has the drum and hub separate like yours that apparently had the drum replaced.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerczar1976 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Tank, thanks for your time. Whoever decided to attached the drum to the hub had to be either a genius or a knuckle-head. Anyway, as I'm a total newb, and have looked thru my Shop Manual without being able to really find it...what's the process from removing the front hubs? I'm at work, but from what I remember seeing yesterday, this would have to be something either done from the backside of the assembly, or by maybe removing the dust cap and attacking it from the outside in. The Parts Manual does luckily show an exploded diagram, and does depict the "Rivet" which is the "pin". Going to Group 6.337, listed are p/n: 1286067--Rivet, pilot (5/16" x 2-1/8") as well as p/n: 114736--Rivet, flat head steel (5/16" x 1-3/16"). 1 is required of the former, and 2 of the latter. There are also separate p/ns for the front brake drum AND hub as an assembly, as well as just the front brake drum.I think if I get that front right off...those rivets are coming outta there! I'm not putting myself or maybe someone else down the road thru this much to do a simple brake job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 If you think removing the drums off the front spindles are hard, try removing the disc brake rotors off a 77 GMC 4X4. The rotor is mounted BEHIND the hub disc so the whole thing has to come off. BUT, first the locking hub mechanism has to be removed before anything else. BIG PITA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerczar1976 Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Exactly! Who the hell designs stuff like this? LOL I think the engineers were told to make sure some items were mechanic/dealer required maintenance, or, like many engineers, didn't think of how to take it apart if it needed to be fixed later! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Gaak! :eek: It ain't no big deal! Pry the dust cover off, remove cotter pin, remove nut (drivers side is reverse thread), remove outer bearing and it's inner race, grab the drum and pull it off; I used to leave the tire/wheel on also. You may have to back off the brake shoes. Leave the rivets and pin alone or you will be fighting lining up everything every time you change a tire. (just wait until you look at the torque tube:confused:...different than an opendriveshaft, but also no big deal...now removing the flywheel from a straight-8 is mickymouse engineering...)Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerczar1976 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 Tank. Again, thanks for the remedial training. I'll try your approach first. It sounds easy. If it is, then I'll maybe try to re-install the pin on the left side. Definitely a good opportunity to repack grease in the bearings. I've found NOS front pins and rivets for that matter at Buick Farm and CARS NOS.I've actually had the front left on and off a few times as I'm learning my way around the car and haven't had issues lining things up. I can see definitely how the rears would be hard to line up without a pin, but the fronts aren't as bad as you can kind of rest the hole in the center of the wheel on the protruding part of the wheel bearing. Now, changing a tire in the rain without a pin, now that's probably where the alignment issues are going to rear their ugly head! LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 .. Anyway, as I'm a total newb, and have looked thru my Shop Manual without being able to really find it...No sure what Shop Manual you have, but you can download the 1952 Shop manual from www.teambuick.com reference section. Section 8 is brakes. You may need to sign up for teambuick. There are pages missing from the scans but still worth havinghttp://www.teambuick.com/reference/index.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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