jvelde Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 I have ordered new rear motor mounts which should arrive early next week - need some insight on removal of old ones and installation of new. Can I use a floor jack to raise the engine slightly to remove and reinstall, or is it more involved? '38-'39 manuals don't give me any direction here, and I really don't want to mess the torque tube alignment and torque ball up.Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenz38 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 At my 38 I can change they with a simple floor jack under the tranny. Clean it all, screw out the frame bolts and you can push out the shims with a screw driver.But I dont now about the differend of shift and clutch linkage between our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Jenz,Thanks for the response, I'm hoping one of the '39 Buick Team Members will answer too. Several days till I get the new mounts, so I'll not be doing this till I get the new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 I think Jenz is correct. My engine was out of the frame with I put mine in, but I don't see any reason you couldn't just lift the engine ever so slightly to loosen them. Of course the less you have to do the better as the more you move it the more your torque tube alignment could change inadvertently, as the mounts do leave a little wiggle room until tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Billy, thanks for the comments, I agree that this should work. Hope we get some confirmation from a '39er who has actually done it that way with success.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 I agree with Billy, but if you have trouble, you may have to remove the four bolts that hold the torque tube to the trans. that may give you more height.CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Thanks Grant - I appreciate the response from Jenz and the '39 Team Buick Members. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Before you lift the rear of the engine to slip the old mounts out and slip the new ones in, you'll need to loosen the inner nuts on the torque ball mounting studs to allow the torque ball to raise with the engine. I'd remove the nuts and washers to check the clearance between the studs and the carrier and back off the studs a few turns. Depending on how much height you need, you may have to screw the torque ball mounting studs out for clearance. When you have replaced the mounts don't lock up the bolts, you'll need to make sure the torque tube is centred back in the frame. There is a centre mark on the frame and the torque ball carrier. You'll need to move the rear of the engine left or right to do this. DON"T use the torque ball mounting studs to do this !!! When centred, check that the flywheel housing is contacting the top of both mounts. If there is a gap between the 2 on one of them, you may need to add a shim or washer to get rid of the gap so both mounts are bearing the weight, not just one of them. When that's all OK, adjust the torque ball mounting studs up to the torque ball carrier, replace nuts and lock it all up. Check that all is still aligned OK after all is locked up.Hopefully, that will do the trick. Oi !!! Grant, read this this morning......... (yeah, it's a little out of date :) )Condom factory burns down in New Zealand : Helen Clarke, Prime Minister of New Zulland, is awoken at 4 a.m by the telephone. "Hillen, its the Hilth Munister here. Sorry to bother you at this hour but there is an emergincy !! I've jist received word thet the Durex factory en Aucklind hes burned to the ground. It is istimated that the entire New Zulland supply of condoms will be gone by the ind of the week." PM: "Shut !! The economy wull niver be able to cope with all those unwanted babies. W'ill be ruined." Hilth Munister: "We're going to hef to shup some in from Brutain ?" PM: "No chence. The Poms will have a field day on thus one. Hilth Munister: "What about Australia ?" PM: "I'll call their PM. Tell him we need one million condoms, ten enches long and eight enches thuck. That way they'll continue to respect the 'All Blacks'." Three days later, a delighted Hillen rushes out to open the boxes that arrived at the Pist Office. She finds one million condoms - 10 enches long, 8 enches thuck, all coloured green and gold with small writing on each one. "MADE IN AUSTRALIA - SIZE: MEDIUM" :) Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 21, 2014 Author Share Posted February 21, 2014 Danny, shouldn't I put the rear up on jack stands while doing this? I may need to put the front up to get enough clearance for the jack and me anyway, and having the car level is probably better anyway. By the way, I don't think that medium size is going to work in Texas...., just saying! Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Keeping the car level would be best. Taking a little weight of the torque tube would help also.I have 4 x 12" blocks of wood I use if I'm raising the car on the wheels. Stands would be ok but be REAL CAREFUL under there if when you start moving engines around.Yeah, medium aren't big sellers her either. :)Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Stock Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Can I use a floor jack to raise the engine slightly to remove and reinstall..That's what I did. Rear first, sent them away to Napier for remoulding; put them back. Then the fronts ditto. Fixed the 50mph shudder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Thanks Terry, I have a growl and slight vibration after 10 mph or so that I can feel in the brake pedal and steering wheel that doesn't change with the clutch in or when in neutral but still moving. Rear motor mounts appear to be perished and really spongy, so they're next. Have already redone brake wheel cylinders and a front inner wheel bearing chasing this issue, so hope this does it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 ;)Ha ha!! Nice Danny! You'll keep......!If you remove the torque tube from the back of the box by removing those four bolts, you may not have to remove the torque ball supports, which isn't difficult, but a hassle. This was on the news yesterday... An Aussie girl goes to Centre-link to register for child benefit."How many children?" asks the assessor."10," replies the girl."10?" says the council worker. "What are their names?""Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Wayne and Wayne.""Doesn't that get confusing?""Nah," says the girl. "Its great, because if they are out playing in the street I just have to shout, 'WAYNE, YA DINNER'S READY' or 'WAYNE, GO TO BED NOW' and they all do it.""What if you want to speak to one individually?" says the perturbed council worker."That's easy," says the girl, "I just use their surnames."CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 A bit too close to fact I'm afraid. :)Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Ha ha!! Yeah. Same here.I'll work on my material.CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Okay, motor mounts arrived yesterday while I was at the golf course and wiring harnesses arrived later in the day by UPS (7:10 PM). So, after a trip to the gym I will start on the motor mounts - think the wiring will need to wait a few weeks so we can take the Buick on a tune-up tour with our local AACA group in two weeks. Don't want to take a chance on it not being functional in case wiring takes longer to sort out.Thanks for all the advice on the motor mounts, I'll post status when done to see if they solve the vibration & growling issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Rear motor mounts are installed and there is no improvement in the low growl and vibration. Sound and vibration show up at 10-15 mph or so and do not change when I shift into neutral or put the clutch in. Have checked differential and fluid is fine, as is the transmission. Anyone have a suggestion as to where I should start looking now? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 Is the noise a newish problem and/or getting worse?Have you taken the back cover off the diff to see what the gears looks like?I seem to rember you have checked the brake drums.There is a universail joint near the transmission sort of inside the torque tube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 1939-Buick, problem showed up a couple of months ago and is getting worse. Had a brake dragging on front right and the inner wheel bearing was a little noisy, so replaced bearing and honed all wheel cylinders and flushed all brake fluid. Replaced brake return springs and all wheels seem to turn freely and I don't feel any drag there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danhar1960 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 The '39 was known for chewing out the splines on the short torque shaft, usually from having bad torque ball mounts. Have you checked them ?? The universal joint is in the torque ball and will also cause something like you described. Did you check that the torque ball was centred OK ??Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvelde Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 (edited) Danny, I did attempt to re-center the torque ball prior to replacing the mounts, so will do that again. I will need advice if I have top get to the universal joint, so please stand by for more reports. May not get on this for a day or two as it is currently 33 degrees and not scheduled to get too much better over the next two days, and my garage is not heated!Thanks,P.S. Torque ball mounts appear to be okay. Edited February 26, 2014 by jvelde (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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