bobj49f2 Posted March 19, 2013 Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) Since there has been a couple of questions about gas tanks I thought I'd throw this out there and see if someone can give me an answer.I needed a gas tank for my '37 Special and I found and bought this one on eBay. It's new and never in a car. It pretty close to the stock tank I currently have for the car, which is rusted out beyond repair, but not exact. My stock tank measures 38½x21x5½, the eBay tank measure 36x22 (I didn't get the other dimesion). It looks really close so I'm guessing it has to be from anothe GM brand from the same era, maybe 2-3 newer or older. Anyone have a guess?My original rusty tank, looks a lot better than it isMy "new" eBay tank Edited March 19, 2013 by bobj49f2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Two thoughts spring to mind. It's not a Century tank? And it does look similar to our 39 Special one.CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 I'm not a Buick expert, but doesn't the Century have the same body as the Special? If so, wouldn't they have the same tank? I don't know.It could be for a '39. That's what I'm thinking, something in the GM line of about the same vintage as my '37. The eBay seller thought it was a early '50s Chevy. He said there's a part number on the tag, 4199645. I Googled the number and couldn't find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AACA Library Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Hi Bob,If that part number is accurate, it is not a Buick tank. At least it doesn't fall between 1928 & 1942. See the attached picture copied from the 1928-1942 Master Chassis Parts List.Based on my recent experience with my '37 Special (Business Coupe), I think the biggest issue you will face with that tank is the filler neck. From your pictures they look close, but mine had a pretty close fit and I don't think it would allow for even a few degrees difference in the bends. You could always modify it though.Good luck!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 My observations from my '39 Century tank. (1) the sending unit hole is on the top front. (2) the filler is on the drivers side ...more than half way back.Also on the '39 there is very little room for the exhaust pipe to clear the gas tank.... any tank wider then the original would probably have clearance problems on a '39. If the rusty tank pictured came from your '37 and your filler is on the drivers side (US) it looks like your sending unit hole it on the top rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 The new tank is slightly narrower and an inch longer, front to back. I checked the space in the frame and the new tank should fit fine. On the '37 Special the filler tube is on the passenger side. The filler neck and sending unit hole on the new tank are located the same as the original tank. It looks like I will have to cut and twist the filler tube to match the original one. The rusty tank came out of a parts car I bought. In my original car, which was a total rust bucket, there was a different tank from some other type of car. The sending unit and pickup tube was in the back and the filler tube was cut off and joined to the filler tube with a piece of hose. When I first started tearing into the original car I thought I had a pretty decent tank until I bought the parts car and found I had some odd tank cobbled in.BTW, anyone know where I can get one of the new tanks listed in Chris's chart? I'd gladly pay $13.25 for the correct tank, even a little more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 The new tank is slightly narrower and an inch longer, front to back. I checked the space in the frame and the new tank should fit fine. On the '37 Special the filler tube is on the passenger side. The filler neck and sending unit hole on the new tank are located the same as the original tank. It looks like I will have to cut and twist the filler tube to match the original one. The rusty tank came out of a parts car I bought. In my original car, which was a total rust bucket, there was a different tank from some other type of car. The sending unit and pickup tube was in the back and the filler tube was cut off and joined to the filler tube with a piece of hose. When I first started tearing into the original car I thought I had a pretty decent tank until I bought the parts car and found I had some odd tank cobbled in.BTW, anyone know where I can get one of the new tanks listed in Chris's chart? I'd gladly pay $13.25 for the correct tank, even a little more.In order to get one of those tanks at or near that price you will need to obtain a Delorean fitted with a working flux-capacitor, along with an adequate amount of fuel from a nuclear reactor to power it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted March 20, 2013 Share Posted March 20, 2013 Bob, just to go back to the difference between Century and Special fuel tanks, at least for 1939, the Century had a 20 gal tank, and the Specials had 18 gal. BTW, do you still have your rusty tank? I assume it's not the one you're talking about in the above post because I can't see any hose on the filler neck. Could you cut that off and have it welded to your good tank? I imagine tracking down a 1937 Buick filler neck shouldn't be too tricky where you are if you need one!CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 The rusty tank I have above is the stock '37 tank I took out of the parts car. That tank is in really bad condition. The neck fell out of the tank when I moved it the other day. The neck is made up of 3 pieces, sleeved and welded together. The section closest to the tank has some deep pitted rust, the other two sections are also rusty but look to be solid. I can blast the tube and see how it turns out. If it's any good I can weld and solder seal it into the new tank.The tank I took out of my original car is fairly solid but has a hole in the bottom, like something jumped up from the street and punctureded it. It looks to be a tankn out of late '60s car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AACA Library Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 There is always this option too: Moyer Fuel Tank Renu - antique gas tank repair restoration, classic car gas tanks GASTANK I don't know anyone that has tried this service but it looks like they can save anything. I found this while doing research before I pulled my tank (expecting the worst) but was relieved to find that my tank was just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 I know about the Renu process. I never used them myself but have read good things about the process. There used to be a dealer nearby but now the closest one is in the Chicago area, about 90 miles away. I'd have to either drive it down there or ship it. Once there they'd have to access the damage and give a quote. If they did repair it I'm sure the cost would be at least $100, I'd bet more. Between getting the tank to them, having them repair it it would be a lot more than the $117 I paid for the eBay tank. I'm not doing a show car, just a nice driver, so I'm not concerned about originally, just a tank that doesn't look like it was jammed into the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Bob,When searching for a replacement tank, take note of where the grooves for the straps are, because they have to match up with the cradle that the tank fits up into also.I had to fabricate 2 new straps for my '40 last year, and I started with a set for a chevy s-10 and fab'd the front hooks from some 14 ga strips. Used wash machine drain hose split open for the saddle up on the top sideJust my $ .02Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 24, 2013 Author Share Posted March 24, 2013 Mike,Thanks, the tank straps are the least of my worries. I'm rebuilding probably 30% of the body. When I get to the point of installing the tank I'll fab up new straps. I like the use of the drain hose for the strap.1937 Buick Special Page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Drain hose? I always thought drain hose was soft/weak /no-ply rubber that wouldn't with stand any pressure, and stretch easy.Just wondering,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Dale,It worked fine for me on the upper cradles. I did not use it for the bottom straps, though some folks have, but then they have to run a ground strap for the gas sending unit, plus it has it's own ground wire.I found this idea on the Chevy forums long ago, so I cannot take any credit for this one.Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 (edited) I got the eBay tank today. The seller mismeasured the tank, instead of being a inch different in either direction it was an exact match, same exact size. The only thing I will have to do is reposition the filler neck. It is just like he said, a brand new, never mounted tank. Not bad for $117, including shipping. Edited March 29, 2013 by bobj49f2 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I got the eBay tank today. The seller mismeasured the tank, instead of being a inch different in either direction it was an exact match, same exact size. The only thing I will have to do is reposition the filler neck. It is just like he said, a brand new, never mounted tank. Not bad for $117, including shippi[ATTACH=CONFIG]185150[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]185151[/ATTACH]Man, what a great buy.I think you are the envy of a lot of old Buick owners out there.Moving the neck is no big deal, and you might be able to use the old one if you wanted to, and it's in good enough condition.Congrat's,Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 Thanks Mike, some times you got to get lucky. The is tank has a few differences, the rib pattern isn't exact but I don't think that'll be a problem. One nice difference is it has a drain on the bottom, the old one doesn't. The drain will be real handy if I ever have to drain the tank. I have trying to get a half filled tank out of a car.The top end of the new tank is a little crumpled so I think I'll be using the old neck, it's about the only part of the original tank that is any good. I'll blast it and paint with some kind of gas tank paint. The easiest thing to do is use a piece of hose to join the two together. I just have to find a hose big enough that is gas hose. I don't know what is available, I haven't looked yet. If I do use a piece of hose might have to make some kind of bracket to hold the fill tube into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Bob,What you could do is trial mount the new tank by jacking it up into position and fitting the old fill tube in the hole and taping the top in it's position under the fender door, then solder the bottom of the joint, dropping the whole thing down and finish soldering the tube to the tank.On my '40LTD there is a bracing bracket that is soldered at the tank and about 8" up on the filler tube on the top side. It takes some of the load off the tube/tank joint.I could post pic's if you like.Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Mike,I'd like to see the pictures. I'm a long way from installing the tank. I have chassis on one side of the shop and the body on a 45° angle on rotisserieri, doing the body work. I'll save the pictures to my "Gas Tank" file for reference when I get to that point.Bob1937 Buick Special Page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Mike,I'd like to see the pictures. I'm a long way from installing the tank. I have chassis on one side of the shop and the body on a 45° angle on rotisserieri, doing the body work. I'll save the pictures to my "Gas Tank" file for reference when I get to that point.Bob1937 Buick Special PageHere's 2 pic's of the bracing for the filler tube.Top brace is aprox 1" wide by 14 gage mild steel strap soldered to the top of the tank and tube.Bottom is a "U" shaped channel bent into an "S" that is soldered to the bottom portion of the tank and to the underside of the fill tube.Indications are, since I am the second owner of the car, that this is a "factory" set up.Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobj49f2 Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Thanks Mike, I have the pictures saved. If you look at the pictures of my tanks you can see that not having bracking on is a weak point. The new tank has a small brace welded on so that tells me somewhere along the line this problem must have come up and the factory added the brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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