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65 electronic ignition


RIVNIK

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greetings Riv owners, I think I've decided to make the change to a Pertronics electronic ignition. I've heard nothing but good about this switch, but what is the downside? I would love to hear testimonials from anyone who has done this, as well as descriptions of the procedure. The youtube Pertronics video shows it to be a simple operation with the distributor removed, but I was hoping to avoid that if possible.Granted, it's a tight squeeze back in there, but the thought of removing the distributor and successfully reinstalling it with my rudimentary mechanical experience gives me the willies. Maybe someone can allay my fears. Or has anyone installed this system with the distributor in the car? As always, thanks for any help you can give. Drew

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Drew, it is just as easy with the distributor in the car. I had the hood off as I was doing several other things at the same time, but installation was as easy as the instructions show it to be. Mine has been in about three years and haven't had any issues at all with it. And yes, it would do it again to another car. No issues means exactly that for me.

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I've read countless reviews on this subject. Bottom line is many have had them for years in multiple cars with no problems while some have had nothing but trouble. Points will ALWAYS work until they wear out and typically they will give warning when replacement is needed. Electronic can die with no warning.

Most who run points carry a spare $15 set just in case. If the electronic conversion decides to die, you are stranded and can't buy one at the local autoparts so you are SOL. Carrying a spare Pertronix defeats the purpose plus they aren't cheap. Many of the old timers I know still run points not because they are too old to change but because they know what works and has worked for 50 years and keeps the car easily serviceble.

For a car driven infrequently like most a set of points can last many years. If you're driving daily there is more incentive to go electronic IMO.

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Guest slacker1965
I've read countless reviews on this subject. Bottom line is many have had them for years in multiple cars with no problems while some have had nothing but trouble. Points will ALWAYS work until they wear out and typically they will give warning when replacement is needed. Electronic can die with no warning.

Most who run points carry a spare $15 set just in case. If the electronic conversion decides to die, you are stranded and can't buy one at the local autoparts so you are SOL. Carrying a spare Pertronix defeats the purpose plus they aren't cheap. Many of the old timers I know still run points not because they are too old to change but because they know what works and has worked for 50 years and keeps the car easily serviceble.

For a car driven infrequently like most a set of points can last many years. If you're driving daily there is more incentive to go electronic IMO.

yep, I agree with both sides of the discussion, I have had good & bad results w/both.

if your distrubitor is not worn out(including the internal bushings), your advance mechanism is working(both vacuum & mech), & you use a quality set of points & condenser with properly adjusted dwell, it can provide trouble free service when properly maintained. I had a car that sat in the humid south for a year that would not run. the points had corroded in the pivot & they were sticking open some of the time(it passed the feeler guage test, but not a dwell test)

a spare set of points & cond, a feeler guage or matchbook plus a screwdriver will probably get you home, if you know how to change & adjust them.

if you have a mallory or pertronix electronic setup, it requires no maintenance or adjustment, once properly installed.

it either works, or doesn't. they will perform at high rpm & will not wear out. the dist still can wear out btw.

both failures of my electronic ignitions were not caused by the product, but electrical shorts.

if you have a worn out distributor, a electronic module will not solve the problem.

I like them both, but prefer the newer technology.....

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Thanks for the quick responses, guys.You've really got me thinking now. I'm not sure how to diagnose a worn distributor that's still in the car....I can't detect much play or sloppiness in the shaft, but the points plate is a bit wobbly . I know it has rotational play to it due to the vacuum advance function, but it also has some vertical play . If this is abnormal it could be the cause of my problems, and I can see how electronics would not be the cure, as the main component mounts to said plate. I often hear about worn distributor bushings and gears' but haven't heard anything about the points plate wearing out. is this addressed in a distributor rebuild and how? Could it be worn or defective while the rest of the distributor is ok? Drew Rivnik

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Another question. If one determines a distributor is in need of a rebuild but is unwilling to attempt it due to lack of experience and a proper shop, what is the best way to proceed? Should I buy a rebuilt from a parts store or would I expect to find a local garage or rebuilder to do the work, or does anyone recommend a place to send it off to? Thanks, Drew

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greetings Riv owners, I think I've decided to make the change to a Pertronics electronic ignition. I've heard nothing but good about this switch, but what is the downside? I would love to hear testimonials from anyone who has done this, as well as descriptions of the procedure. The youtube Pertronics video shows it to be a simple operation with the distributor removed, but I was hoping to avoid that if possible.Granted, it's a tight squeeze back in there, but the thought of removing the distributor and successfully reinstalling it with my rudimentary mechanical experience gives me the willies. Maybe someone can allay my fears. Or has anyone installed this system with the distributor in the car? As always, thanks for any help you can give. Drew

I've have a Pertronics in my '64 for over ten years without a problem. I did have to remove the distributor to shim to get the right gap. I carry a spare module, cost about $60.

Johnrex

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