Brakes..

[Guest RaverReatta]

So here's the situation..

Whilst braking I find that the brake pedal is incredibly hard to push, and not only that, my brakes are barely gripping. Hence, causing me to run a stop sign for the first time ever. May Zeus strike me for that one! Anyway, I already know that I am in need of new pads and could stand to have my rotors turned, that's part of the issue, but what would be causing the pedal to be so hard to push? Do I just need to bleed my brakes? Is my pressure accumulator bad? If anyone has any tips to help out I'd appreciate it, because I don't want to end up paying for something, or some part, that I don't need to.

Thanks as always,

~RaverReatta

[handmedownreatta]

your power brakes are out.it doesn't need bleeding.someone else that actually knows the remedy will speak up soon.

[Ronnie]

So here's the situation..

Whilst braking I find that the brake pedal is incredibly hard to push, and not only that, my brakes are barely gripping. Hence, causing me to run a stop sign for the first time ever. May Zeus strike me for that one! Anyway, I already know that I am in need of new pads and could stand to have my rotors turned, that's part of the issue, but what would be causing the pedal to be so hard to push? Do I just need to bleed my brakes? Is my pressure accumulator bad? If anyone has any tips to help out I'd appreciate it, because I don't want to end up paying for something, or some part, that I don't need to.

Thanks as always,

~RaverReatta

Your description indicates to me that the brake pump is not running and building any pressure to povide power brakes when you are stopping. Does the red brake warning light come on when you first turn the key on? Does it go out after about 15 seconds?

If the pump isn't running it could be caused by a bad fuse, a bad brake relay on the firewall, a bad pressure switch or a bad brake pump.

You should read this first t understand the brake pump system:

http://forums.aaca.org/f116/my-brakes-dont-work-309426-2.html#post920055

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

You should not be driving your car at all in this condition!

Aren't your red and yellow brake lights on? If your red light isn't working you won't be able to do the brake tests to help decipher the root cause, so you need to start with getting that fixed.

You can check your pump out easily enough by jumping 12 volts to it and listening. Most likely it's the relay or pressure switch. Do you see any fluid showing when you remove the connector from the pressure switch and look inside?

[Guest RaverReatta]

You should not be driving your car at all in this condition!

Aren't your red and yellow brake lights on? If your red light isn't working you won't be able to do the brake tests to help decipher the root cause, so you need to start with getting that fixed.

You can check your pump out easily enough by jumping 12 volts to it and listening. Most likely it's the relay or pressure switch. Do you see any fluid showing when you remove the connector from the pressure switch and look inside?

Fortunately, I only drove it once, unknowing that it was in this state. Anyway, my instrument panel does not work properly, but ALL of the warning lights for everything are lit up constantly (my digital dash does not work). I got the car for $550 and it's a fixer-upper. Odd though, when I started it up today and drove it around the driveway the brakes seemed to work just fine. It wasn't even acting up. If anything it just acted as if there was just a tiny bit too much pressure. Considering that it has acted up before though, I am inclined to believe that there is still some sort of problem. I may go ahead and replace pads, rotors, and have it bled just to be sure, but I'll give the pump and pressure switch a check juuuust to be double sure. As far as fuses and relays though, I have checked every one of them individually, and oddly enough not a single fuse or relay needed replacing. I appreciate the advice, and if I encounter any more problems I'll be sure to update.

Thank you!

~RaverReatta

Edited January 28, 2013 by RaverReatta (see edit history)

[Guest Mc_Reatta]

Sounds like you have an intermittent problem that you should track down before your brakes go out again.

If you're going to bleed the brakes anyway, do yourself and your brakes a big favor and do a complete flush while your at it.

Go here to learn how to do it properly. Not the same as a vacuum boosted system:

How To Flush & Bleed Brakes - Reatta Owners Journal

Edited January 28, 2013 by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)

[Guest RaverReatta]

Thanks!! and yeah, mine has loads of little electrical flaws, that could possibly be a part of it. So much so that I should really consider investing in a new wiring harness, but that seems to be very hard to find.

[Ronnie]

Thanks!! and yeah, mine has loads of little electrical flaws, that could possibly be a part of it. So much so that I should really consider investing in a new wiring harness, but that seems to be very hard to find.

There are lots of tutorials on Reatta Owners Journal that will help you repair your problems. If you will post the details about your problems we will be able to help you fix them. It's better to start a new thread for each problem to avoid confusion.

[DAVES89]

There are a number of people that sell instrument clusters here on the forum. You may want to consider a request on the Buy/Sell portion of the Reatta Forum...

[Jim]

If your system is pressurizing correctly, the red light goes out, you may have a problem with the valve body on the side of the master cylinder.

The pressure switches can be bad and sometimes will not start the pump or the pump can be bad sometimes not running. I have both available.

It is very common for the pressure switches to go bad. Remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside near the five pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to any of the pins your pressure switch is defective and needs to be replaced.

One of the most important things a person can do with an '88-90 Reatta is change the brake fluid about every five years. Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture and in the Teves system this moisture can cause major problems in the valve body. Very often the car will stop fine but in a panic situation the car will have a hard pedal and no brakes or the car in a panic situation may pull hard to one side or the other.

I do have and sell complete brake units, everything on the firewall.

The following is something everyone should try for future safety sake. With the red light out go out on the street with no one around, get up to about 20 MPH and do a panic stop. The car should stop straight ahead, not pull to either side and not have a hard pedal.

On my parts cars I perform this test before disassembling the car and if the car passes this test I will sell the ABS unit. If not, it gets junked.

Sometimes you see these complete units on Ebay but I would never buy one from a junk yard or Ebay unless the seller has road tested the unit.

Many years ago I bought a car from a fellow in NJ who experienced the same situation you are. He replaced his pads and rotors and then was driving along a two lane street, a fellow pulling a Bobcat on a trailer pulled out in front of him and he went to stop, had a hard pedal and totaled his car.

Everyone with an '88-90----------If your brake fluid has not been changed in the last 5 years----------change it.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be

changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.

2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal

should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600

pounds of pressure in the accumulator.

3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.

4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.

5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional

method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.

6. To bleed the rear brakes

A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize

B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.

C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear

fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)

When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

Edited January 29, 2013 by Jim (see edit history)

[Guest RaverReatta]

There are a number of people that sell instrument clusters here on the forum. You may want to consider a request on the Buy/Sell portion of the Reatta Forum...

I'm actually considering converting from the Digital dash to analog gauges, just because this Reatta is going to be more for track days than daily driving or a restoration project. If I do some of the things that I plan (i.e. performance upgrades, conversions, home-moulded body kits, perhaps even a RWD conversion using a 3800 out of a Camaro/Firebird, and etc.) then I'll post some of my processes just in case anyone else is interested in building a racing Reatta!

[Guest RaverReatta]

If your system is pressurizing correctly, the red light goes out, you may have a problem with the valve body on the side of the master cylinder.

The pressure switches can be bad and sometimes will not start the pump or the pump can be bad sometimes not running. I have both available.

It is very common for the pressure switches to go bad. Remove the connector on the pressure switch and look inside near the five pins. If you see even the tiniest drop of brake fluid next to any of the pins your pressure switch is defective and needs to be replaced.

One of the most important things a person can do with an '88-90 Reatta is change the brake fluid about every five years. Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture and in the Teves system this moisture can cause major problems in the valve body. Very often the car will stop fine but in a panic situation the car will have a hard pedal and no brakes or the car in a panic situation may pull hard to one side or the other.

I do have and sell complete brake units, everything on the firewall.

The following is something everyone should try for future safety sake. With the red light out go out on the street with no one around, get up to about 20 MPH and do a panic stop. The car should stop straight ahead, not pull to either side and not have a hard pedal.

On my parts cars I perform this test before disassembling the car and if the car passes this test I will sell the ABS unit. If not, it gets junked.

Sometimes you see these complete units on Ebay but I would never buy one from a junk yard or Ebay unless the seller has road tested the unit.

Many years ago I bought a car from a fellow in NJ who experienced the same situation you are. He replaced his pads and rotors and then was driving along a two lane street, a fellow pulling a Bobcat on a trailer pulled out in front of him and he went to stop, had a hard pedal and totaled his car.

Everyone with an '88-90----------If your brake fluid has not been changed in the last 5 years----------change it.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be

changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.

2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal

should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600

pounds of pressure in the accumulator.

3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.

4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.

5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional

method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.

6. To bleed the rear brakes

A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize

B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.

C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear

fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)

When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

What you're saying does sound exactly like what is happening with mine!!! I really appreciate the input!

[Ronnie]

I'm actually considering converting from the Digital dash to analog gauges, just because this Reatta is going to be more for track days than daily driving or a restoration project. If I do some of the things that I plan (i.e. performance upgrades, conversions, home-moulded body kits, perhaps even a RWD conversion using a 3800 out of a Camaro/Firebird, and etc.) then I'll post some of my processes just in case anyone else is interested in building a racing Reatta!

Taking a Reatta to the race track is like taking a mule to the Kentucky Derby. IMO. It's always better to start with the right tool for the job.