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6 Volt North East Key Coil


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Does anyone know what the correct key type would have been for this key coil ? I've read that the correct key was either a Clum, Yale or Briggs & Stratton in the few threads I could locate that discussed this topic, but haven't found the answer I'm looking for.

I need to have a key made up for a good working 6 volt North East coil that was saved from a 1929 Dodge Brothers 5 window Coupe. I've found a key guy that does Dodge Brothers keys but he's telling me that the code should say "DB" but I found no DB on the coil anywhere. I understand that some keys have the DB on them but that's only helpful after one finds the keycode I would assume.

This is what I'm trying to achieve ultimately:

This is going to go in my 1930 Dodge Brothers Panel truck DA-124 and I would like to transfer the original truck face plate from my non working coil over to the working Coupe coil. The trucks and the car coils seem to match up identical so I believe this will work. Does anyone believe this won't work ?

Also, I've noticed some keys have numbers and letters but I can't find a thorough enough explanation of what the letter and numbering system means and or what the application would have been for each key.

The only numbers or codes I could find on the coil are shown in the photos below.

So in summary I have 2 questions:

1.) Can I transfer the face plate from the non working Truck coil over to the working Coupe coil without any issues ?

2.) What kind of key and what number range should I be looking for ?

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Clum was the earlier units, your original lock cylinder as far as I know would have carried a Basco or Briggs and Stratton key. ( Same company )

Do you have the model specific parts book for your truck? I cannot remember, I know you have the MPB.

I know that the auto parts book shows an ignition assy ( with key ) up until a specific serial number, I know that truck and auto used the same coil assy ( so yes everything is interchangeable ) I am thinking that since they showed an assy up to a specific number and a different part # for the assy after a specific serial number and yet the coil assy remained un-changed cosmetically that they changed their source for the lock assy but this is only speculation.

I do know that some of the original keys were in fact marked with DB and then the code on the key, I thought very strongly that there was a matching code on the lock cylinder, I may be incorrect about that but the more I think about it I do believe it is there but I cannot remember where.

If it is there than it is hidden until you remove the cylinder.

Speculation at this point on what little I have found is that the ignition key carried a specific shaped head, door lock another and spare tire lock a third, ( this made it easier for driver to reference ) I had at one point an opinion I would have shared on which was correct for each location but I will withhold that now because it has been so many years since I have considered this key deal that I have forgotten where I drew my facts from.

I have seen door locks that carried both Yale and Basco keys, I do not know which was original and again it may have dependent on serial number of vehicle.

As far as what number range I do not know, there are key books out there that have some very interesting info within them, I have seen them but I do not think I own one although I did at one point have a partial copy which I cannot locate now and is prob. not going to be found.

Do you have a key for your seized truck coil, I am assuming you do since you say seized. As you may know the lock housings are pot metal which have shrank over time causing the cylinder to become seized in many cases.

I would like to have your seized unit if you want to part with it but I guess I may suggest you keep it just in case you are in need of something.

BTW as you may have read already in one of my past posts many commercial vehicles were keyed with a non-removable key I guess dependent on location of vehicle as it was used. I have one of these units and it will be pictured below when I have the chance.

Please at least do not throw the coil away, I will take it as I plan to re-burbush them some day if that were your intentions.

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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I was able to find a Northeast catalog depicting the original ignition lock assy for your truck and just as I thought ( but did not reveal earlier ) it shows the hex shaped key head being used for the ignition assy. Again this may be only one variation that was avail. It may have changed often depending on serial number or manuf. of the actual lock assy.

As you prob. have figured out N.E assembled units from outside sourced parts.

The more I think about it the more I think the code will be found on the side of the original key cylinder.

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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Thanks Jason.

No worries, I'll keep the non working coil for the truck until I've studied this fully even though the pot metal is in pieces, and missing a good chunk and the inner connector is missing.

As for the book, I do have an instruction book specific for the 4 and 6 cyl 124" wb trucks. The only mention of the key is the following.

" Keys and locks are numbered and the lock numbers should be noted so that in case of loss or breakage new keys may be obtained. The lock number does not show on the outside of the lock".

and

"The ignition switch on the Dodge Brothers 3/4 ton truck is operated by a key so that when the ignition is shut off for stopping the engine, it is a simple matter to lock the vehicle by removing the key".

then later in the same book it reads:

"The key number should be noted so that keys may be replaced in case of loss or breakage. The lock number is not shown on the outside of the lock" .

That tells me

a.) the key may not of been permanently inserted

b.) that the key number should be located somewhere but not visible on the outside of the lock

Tomorrow I'll take it apart again to see if I can find some numbers inside the cylinder. I'm guessing I just didn't look in the right place or close enough.

BTW: The reason I say the truck one is seized is because it's as if the pot metal melted together on the outer ring of the cylinder. When your looking at the key hole there is no gap where the key cylinder should turn at the face plate like in the photo of the coupe coil.

Heres the book I pulled the info from:

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Here is one variation of key, it is marked DB 656. I have others and I see no correlation between that number that you show on the side of the pot metal housing and the keys but some of them appear un-stamped or so lightly stamped that they are un-readable.

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Interesting fact I did not know was that the 4 cyl ( Plymouth U trucks ) Dodge trucks used the Delco Remy ignition lock assy according to the Oct 29 parts list.

No mention of manufacturer of keys nor does it indicate within the truck parts list that there were any changes. 2 Ign. units mentioned, one for Dist. and the other magneto.

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I have looked in the 3 volume master truck parts manuals and it only mentions when ordering keys specify key blank number/code. Of course they would have supplied a key from whatever manufacturer they were using at the time. I have no-where else to look that I can think of.

I have a Basco ignition key that only shows the I.M number.....I am assuming I.M stands for intermix which would mean that it was good for various other cylinders? I guess it would be safe to assume that this would have been a replacement key? I would assume that the originals were marked DB as I have shown above.

What are your thoughts? What can be added to this?

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I've only found one other reference other than what you've already added and that is that the 4 cylinders in the 124" wb used United Motors as opposed to the 6 cylinders that used the North East electrical components (see photo below from the 4 and 6 cylinder intruction booklet) but I cannot speak to anything for car coils as my literature is only geared to trucks.

Haven't located where they mention the 4 cylinders to have Delco Remy components for anything so I'm unclear of where you found that in the Oct 29 parts listing.

The parts books I have specific for the " 124"WB " only list the type of part and the part number no photos and mention of any keys by letters, numbers or design/shape.

For instance, heres how it's listed:

Coil - Ignition (is how it's listed in the index). Then when I go to the page number 34 it shows the following

Ignition coil assembly - 522783

Ignition switch (with keys) (distributor) -517603

Ignition switch (with keys) (magneto) - 519508

I should note that this parts book is specific for 3/4 ton 124"wb DB trucks showing the correct frame numbers for the 29-30 range for the E series trucks and at the opening it shows a factory illustration of my Panel truck, same as my avatar which is the only factory photo I've found to date. After studying it breifly I realized that the F series frames were not included thats why I gave the range 29-30 because as far as I can tell that was the only year the U-124 and DA-124 were produced. Unfortunetly the 2 originals I've found to date are only half complete meaning in the index they both end with parts listed at the letter H and abrubtly ends at H.

I assume the reason for this was because of the instruction at the opening of these books. As you know it reads "The new sheets contained in this package should be inserted in the cover and the old sheets of corresponding page numbers removed and destroyed".. So if I want to find any parts by index of words starting with the letters I up to Z I have to search thru the book for parts names and if I'm lucky the parts names and numbers appear. For instance "Windshield Frame", it's not listed in either of my 3/4 ton parts indexes but you can find mention of it later in the book as you flip thru the pages.

So the 2 copies of the "parts specific to my truck" are both different and incomplete as you warned me they would be at the onset of my research. It should also be noted that the inserted pages have the date at the top of the pages as "corrected Dec. 15 1930". The original pages were labeled "Published October 1, 1929" as you know.

The MPB in the photo is the version that covers Canadian and RHD info as well.

So i've looked everywhere I can think to look for this key answer. What am I missing ?

I'll take the coil apart later today to see if any numbers appear that may be significant.

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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I had someone tell me on another board that " My original keys are Briggs and Stratton and I do have the DB on them, it really has nothing to do with the code "

If that's the case then it would seem impossible to have a key made up without a code because according to this view there is no code to begin with, or maybe he's saying you simply don't need the code.

nobo, if your reading this maybe you can ellaborate on that a little more on this board because I'm really unclear of what you mean by that statement. How would one go about getting the correct key made if no code is needed ?

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I've only found one other reference other than what you've already added and that is that the 4 cylinders in the 124" wb used United Motors as opposed to the 6 cylinders that used the North East electrical components (see photo below from the 4 and 6 cylinder intruction booklet) but I cannot speak to anything for car coils as my literature is only geared to trucks.

Haven't located where they mention the 4 cylinders to have Delco Remy components for anything so I'm unclear of where you found that in the Oct 29 parts listing.

The parts books I have specific for the " 124"WB " only list the type of part and the part number no photos and mention of any keys by letters, numbers or design/shape.

For instance, heres how it's listed:

Coil - Ignition (is how it's listed in the index). Then when I go to the page number 34 it shows the following

Ignition coil assembly - 522783

Ignition switch (with keys) (distributor) -517603

Ignition switch (with keys) (magneto) - 519508

I should note that this parts book is specific for 3/4 ton 124"wb DB trucks showing the correct frame numbers for the 29-30 range for the E series trucks and at the opening it shows a factory illustration of my Panel truck, same as my avatar which is the only factory photo I've found to date. After studying it breifly I realized that the F series frames were not included thats why I gave the range 29-30 because as far as I can tell that was the only year the U-124 and DA-124 were produced. Unfortunetly the 2 originals I've found to date are only half complete meaning in the index they both end with parts listed at the letter H and abrubtly ends at H.

I assume the reason for this was because of the instruction at the opening of these books. As you know it reads "The new sheets contained in this package should be inserted in the cover and the old sheets of corresponding page numbers removed and destroyed".. So if I want to find any parts by index of words starting with the letters I up to Z I have to search thru the book for parts names and if I'm lucky the parts names and numbers appear. For instance "Windshield Frame", it's not listed in either of my 3/4 ton parts indexes but you can find mention of it later in the book as you flip thru the pages.

So the 2 copies of the "parts specific to my truck" are both different and incomplete as you warned me they would be at the onset of my research. It should also be noted that the inserted pages have the date at the top of the pages as "corrected Dec. 15 1930". The original pages were labeled "Published October 1, 1929" as you know.

The MPB in the photo is the version that covers Canadian and RHD info as well.

So i've looked everywhere I can think to look for this key answer. What am I missing ?

I'll take the coil apart later today to see if any numbers appear that may be significant.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174181[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174184[/ATTACH]

You will find that United Motors is just as it implies, a unity of once separate conglomerates, that joined into one entity, Northeast merged with Delco Remy in either Sept or maybe Oct of 1929, I have a fascinating official government document ( as it was labeled ) that speaks of the sale including a tid-bit of why the sale, I believe it implied that the original owners of the N.E company were up in age and so decided to get out of the business. I will have too look for this though.

Klaxton, AC and Lovejoy were also within that pool, maybe others.

From what I have found within instruction booklets D.B used ( specifically mentions ) Briggs and Stratton ignition and lighting switch 1916 and 17, I thought I had an 18 and 19 but cannot find it if I do.

Later booklets show the clum ignition and lighting switch, I am still un-sure who is clum, I understand that the keys are labeled Clum and the lighting switch itself is marked Clum manufacturing. On the early D.B they used a Clum ignition lighting switch mounted on the dash, later cars ( after late 27 I believe ) they went with a Clum lighting switch mounted below the gearbox on the column and that is when the ignition locks went to the N.E variety. What happened to clum I do not know.

Quote...........Haven't located where they mention the 4 cylinders to have Delco Remy components for anything so I'm unclear of where you found that in the Oct 29 parts listing............Ok so I am assuming you have this? It is impossible for me to read the dates of the booklets below, one looks like 34 and the other one I guess I can assume at this point is the Oct 29 book?

If it is than the book covers both 4 and 6 cyl trucks and so look on page 25 and you will see the 4 cyl truck ignition assy, very top you will see the Delco Remy mention.

Is it possible you are confused here............I assume the reason for this was because of the instruction at the opening of these books. As you know it reads "The new sheets contained in this package should be inserted in the cover and the old sheets of corresponding page numbers removed and destroyed"...........Now as far as I know you are referring to salesmans data sheets not the parts book, I have never found anything indicating that the old sheets should be removed and new data inserted within these bound parts books.

Once we figure out for sure what you have for a parts book I can scan and give you copies of the possible missing sub-group index and if you want it the numerical index listing.

Again I do not know what you mean by insert pages as you mention in your next paragraph.

The master parts book you have is fine, makes little difference that it is specifically geared toward Canada, yes it would be nice to have the U.S version and I am sure there will be some confusion between the two but you have what you were able to get, I have some Canadian versions that have done me just fine and I am glad to have them.

Quote..........What am I missing ?............Your missing being born a few days late and the unfortunate fact that over time details have been lost because there is so little interest in getting things correct down to the nitty gritty.

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Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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I had someone tell me on another board that " My original keys are Briggs and Stratton and I do have the DB on them, it really has nothing to do with the code "

If that's the case then it would seem impossible to have a key made up without a code because according to this view there is no code to begin with, or maybe he's saying you simply don't need the code.

nobo, if your reading this maybe you can ellaborate on that a little more on this board because I'm really unclear of what you mean by that statement. How would one go about getting the correct key made if no code is needed ?

Ok so they agree that they were Briggs and Stratton, I would guess that at one time there was a key book that had a specific section set up for D.B motor cars and you would find the DB... and then the code and then a reference for the correct key blank.

I understand where you are with trying to have the correct key with the correct code made up, I was also once there and still wish it were possible, unfortunately as I mentioned in past post too many years have gone by where everyone throws their hands in the air in disgust and walk away from the problem of identifying the absolute correct keys with correct key code for their vehicle and so the answers are maybe un-obtainable at this point. All you can do is keep looking for answers and maybe someday you will find them.

I cant say what someone else is saying but I will guess that what is being implied is too do what many of us have and that is to get the key you would like to use with whatever key code it has been cut from and move your tumblers around within the lock cylinder to match the key.

Only take a few moments and is still in practice today.

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So am I right to at least assume that the car keys were round and that the trucks were hex shaped (both BASCO's) from all indictations ?

I figured that everyone has been through this from what I've read in the past but I guess I was just hoping that the answer had been found mysteriously somehow.

Doubt if I'll throw my hands up in the air though, there is an answer out there somewhere, just a matter of finding it. Could take years but we'll find it.

Thanks for help

Dave

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I was confused because I do not have those books.

Here is the 3/4 ton parts list book and the intro page.

Edit: I have 2 of these same books with different additional and missing information in both. Although this intro page shows up in one it does not in the other.

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Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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I was confused because I do not have those books.

Here is the 3/4 ton parts list book and the intro page.

I still do not recognize seeing these sheets with a parts list, this is a first for me, tell me if the book is bound than do they literally expect you to tear out the sheets and just loosely place the new sheets within the book? This makes no sense to me, every time you pick up the book you would have pages falling out?

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O disregard my above post, I was thinking of the later books, 33 up that are cloth bound.

Nope, evidently your book contains exactly that, revised pages, again I have not run across these pages within a parts book that I can remember, I have run across parts books that only cover from A-B serial number and then a revised edition later on but I have not seen these revised pages being issued for an earlier book, very interesting.

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Yes it's bound with 3 metal tabs. Simply straighten out the tabs on the last page by squeezing them together just like file folder, then slide one would have had to remove that pin, open to the page they wanted to change and insert the correct updated page then put the pin back in yada ya.... and yes it would have potential fell apart which is why I'm guessing it's in this condition. The tabs are still inserted into the binding but the tape must have been to attempt to keep it from moving so much I would think. Who knows...

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So am I right to at least assume that the car keys were round and that the trucks were hex shaped (both BASCO's) from all indictations ?

I figured that everyone has been through this from what I've read in the past but I guess I was just hoping that the answer had been found mysteriously somehow.

Doubt if I'll throw my hands up in the air though, there is an answer out there somewhere, just a matter of finding it. Could take years but we'll find it.

Thanks for help

Dave

I would not assume that the car keys were all round and the trucks were hex shaped, as I mentioned I am going to guess that if at any point D.B switched manuf. of lock cylinders from Basco to maybe Yale than the key head shapes may have changed. Maybe there are other possibilities that the shape of the key head would have changed.

I am only guessing that there was a change in manuf. of the lock cylinders based on the auto parts book indicating a later and earlier coil assy, maybe the change had nothing to do with the key, maybe it was something internal that we could not see. Maybe they used Basco only exclusively throughout their run. Lots of maybes.

If I were you and I just had to have an answer I would start contact other truck owners within the club and ask their take on it. What keys they have found to be correct and original.

Below is a page ( cop is all that I seem to have ) of your ignition col/lock assy and it shows the hex head key dangling from it.

Unfortunately there are errors within the page, ( again a later book, maybe from the later 30s or 40s I do not know ) as it shows coil # 5022324 being used on cars 27-30 and we know that is incorrect, this coil was used for sure 28 Victory and maybe 27/28 Standard six cars but not the 29/30 autos.

They are showing your 5023130 used only on D.B trucks 29/30 only, they also show 5023640 which in my opinion is the same unit ( same price ) but with no indication of its use unless we would believe Packard 1932.

I am pretty sure that by 32 the coils were a separate unit.

Looks same hex key hanging and yet round key in cylinder.

Drawings, for illustration purposes only I know but at least its something to cling too.

I am going to have to look and see if those numbers work anywhere else

EDIT: No it would seem that the number is a superceded part # that I cannot find within the 3/4 ton at least parts book

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Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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This book tells me the same info as the instruction book, repeating everything we've discussed but for the earlier E series DA-120 specifically

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174247[/ATTACH]

OOHHH AHHHH ME LIKEY that book

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Yes it's bound with 3 metal tabs. Simply straighten out the tabs on the last page by squeezing them together just like file folder, then slide one would have had to remove that pin, open to the page they wanted to change and insert the correct updated page then put the pin back in yada ya.... and yes it would have potential fell apart which is why I'm guessing it's in this condition. The tabs are still inserted into the binding but the tape must have been to attempt to keep it from moving so much I would think. Who knows...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174236[/ATTACH]

I woud like to see a single page specifically the heading where it states revised pages, no hurry

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Yeah so does Stakeside lol

When I bought it off the big board it only had one view when I completed my transaction. Good timing and luck I guess...:D

Thanks for that coil scan and info, I'll pass it onto my key guy. He told me he's got some old original literature for Briggs and Stratton that cover Dodge Brothers back to the clum days also. How extensively I don't know yet, just going to have to work it out to see where this leads.

When he told me about the original DB he mentioned that he had 2 or 3 of them. My next hope is I can pry one of those from his possesion if they are copies of the same thing. Who knows, I may be successful.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]174250[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174251[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174252[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174253[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174254[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174255[/ATTACH]

Ok thanks, I think I can still add something too this, just give me a few minutes

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This just jogged my memory, the number you are looking for is called the JL number. I dot remember if I ever knew what JL stood for but guys that do locks ( old locks maybe ) understand the term JL. If you look closely at this page nearly all the way down to bottom you will see ( maybe ) ( JL750 to 999 ) what they should say is JL750 thru JL999.

This is directly below the heading of these makes of cars which are DA DD DE DF DC DH DI DJ and DG

There will be a book somewhere out there that lists these JL codes and within this series of number JL750 thru JL999 you will find the variations of key cuts or blanks ( I am not sure ) for these specific model cars that was used.

I know it really does not help but just something else to think about.

This material is from a book that as you can see was printed by D.B corp in 32 as ( in my opinion ) a filler parts manual of most frequently serviced D.B parts used in service for all years prior

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Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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Definately helps ! Thanks

I'm gonna get busy looking at the coil again and giving him a call and make sure he gets these photos in email to see if we can get some more answers. I think that was a huge help that you just posted. We'll see...

Show me the cover of the book in post 27 if you would so I can forward that on as well.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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[ATTACH=CONFIG]174250[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174251[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174252[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174253[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174254[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174255[/ATTACH]

Ok I see it now, yes many of my books have these corrected pages, I guess I never gave it much thought, I have not yet found the page you have shown where it states to throw away old pages and insert the new ones, I have only found ( briefly scanned one or two books ) simply the original published date and then the corrected pages.

I have this throw away old pages ( page ) within other sales books but cant remember seeing it within the parts books.

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Definately helps ! Thanks

I'm gonna get busy looking at the coil again and giving him a call and make sure he gets these photos in email to see if we can get some more answers. I think that was a huge help that you just posted. We'll see...

Show me the cover of the book in post 27 if you would so I can forward that on as well.

I dont see how that will help but anyway the front cover is solid black, raised letters ( all solid black ) and is identical to what you see here on the insert page. Front cover would not show up as well as this front page.

Good luck finding someone that will have the patience to entertain your getting it correct attitude ! Let me know if you find anything new, also take a picture of that # that I believe will be found on your lock cyl. I still cant quite picture it.

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WWWOOOOOOW WWW You lucky dog !

Man i'd love to find something like that last book. I'm fricken drooling here...

Just got an email from the key guy. He's being very helpful and I think he loves the search and challenge. Should be interesting to see where this all leads us.

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WWWOOOOOOW WWW You lucky dog !

Man i'd love to find something like that last book. I'm fricken drooling here...

Just got an email from the key guy. He's being very helpful and I think he loves the search and challenge. Should be interesting to see where this all leads us.

You are lucky to found someone that enjoys the search, have fun! If hes a young guy.....Jessie maybe.....Jessie keys? Than prob. no point asking him because I do not think he will know but if its an old guy ask him for a good explanation of JL numbers, also the IM numbers C numbers ect.

JL is where you want to be though for original applications unless I am mistaken. ......Scratch that, I already showed that is where you want to be. I am forgetful :)

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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Yes, he's got some of the info and pics. We'll just have to wait to see what he comes back with in regards to the IM and JL. He verified that as you were posting so we're where we need to be. Exciting seeing where leads.

He's not a young man at all. My guess is around 55-62 maybe. He's speaking the same language so I think we're in good hands with him. It's all email and phone work but he's more than willing. We may not hear from him till tomorrow now so I'm gonna get my butt to work on something.

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A good locksmith should be able to impression a key to that lock with no problem.. I have done it but the lock has to be operational and like Jason said , not warped out of shape..

Thanks platt I appreciate your input and suggestion. I understand there's other ways to go about this that are less of a headache but I guess I like the pain....

Just seems there has to be a way to crack the code in regards to this topic.

But it will probably have to wait till early next week now before we hear anything.

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Jason I think it should be noted that post #20 in regards to the North East Coil ad, I believe you thought there were 2 coils that were the same. As it's saying that the Packards are (not illustrated).

I believe what it's saying in regards to part #5023640 is that is a 12 volt coil (with locks) meant for the following trucks:

1930 Coleman

1931 Cunningham

1930-31 Pickwick Stages

1929-31 Sterling Engines

There does seem to be a slight variation in the shape from the 6 volt coil that would have went to the 1930 Dodge Trucks. Top and bottom of the face plate seem slightly higher and more pointed and a thicker wall and there seems to be a notch on the left of the 12v coils chrome faceplate area and not the 6 volts so I do believe they are not the same but I think it was just a continuation until you see the breif space between the parts for those trucks and the parts numbers listed above Packard parts numbers.

It was probably just throwing you because the 5023601 12 volt (not illustrate) ends at the bottom of the page.

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Jason I think it should be noted that post #20 in regards to the North East Coil ad, I believe you thought there were 2 coils that were the same. As it's saying that the Packards are (not illustrated).

I believe what it's saying in regards to part #5023640 is that is a 12 volt coil (with locks) meant for the following trucks:

1930 Coleman

1931 Cunningham

1930-31 Pickwick Stages

1929-31 Sterling Engines

There does seem to be a slight variation in the shape from the 6 volt coil that would have went to the 1930 Dodge Trucks. Top and bottom of the face plate seem slightly higher and more pointed and a thicker wall and there seems to be a notch on the left of the 12v coils chrome faceplate area and not the 6 volts so I do believe they are not the same but I think it was just a continuation until you see the breif space between the parts for those trucks and the parts numbers listed above Packard parts numbers.

It was probably just throwing you because the 5023601 12 volt (not illustrate) ends at the bottom of the page.

Maybe you are right, I do see the variations now. I do have a 6 volt truck coil and their is no notch but it may be one of the ones that I have assembled from parts and pieces.

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Hello. On my 1931 U124 truck, the key number is the IM number. I just sent the number in to a key maker and they were able to confirm original blank shape and cut the key. I had two different vehicles done this way. Original keys were so worn that they would not consistently turn lock. New keys worked like new. I will post the name of the key outfit I used tomorrow.

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Thanks George, I look forward to seeing what you had made. Thats great news !

Here's the pics from the interior of the cylinder. Boy this was harder to see with a magnifying glass than with the macro setting on my camera, shows up much better using the camera after I upload it.

Only numbers I could find inside (if it matters at this point) are 22000 and the N/E logo upside down with an underlined "A" and the number 4 next to it. These numbers were on the back side of the face plate as you turn the cylinder upside down at the very bottom of the cylinder. Very difficult to see...

I found no other numbers.

post-69994-14314172558_thumb.jpg

post-69994-143141725548_thumb.jpg

Edited by 30DodgePanel (see edit history)
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Thanks George, I look forward to seeing what you had made. Thats great news !

Here's the pics from the interior of the cylinder. Boy this was harder to see with a magnifying glass than with the macro setting on my camera, shows up much better using the camera after I upload it.

Only numbers I could find inside (if it matters at this point) are 22000 and the N/E logo upside down with an underlined "A" and the number 4 next to it. These numbers were on the back side of the face plate as you turn the cylinder upside down at the very bottom of the cylinder. Very difficult to see...

I found no other numbers.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]174597[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]174598[/ATTACH]

As I had mentioned before it will be found on the lock cylinder, I took one apart this A.M to show you. If the unit has not been taken apart yet you will find that you will have to drill out/remove very gently ( in your case it does not matter I guess on one of your units ) 3 rivet heads to remove the faceplate once you have removed the outer ( plated ? ) bezel.

Maybe there was an up-date along the line and you will not have to drill anything out as their will be screws, maybe its an early/late thing, maybe its a parts change I dont know.

Anyway I could not remember exactly where it was either but if you look closely at the tip of the CYLINDER you will see the I.M number, in this case I.M 226. As you can see the keys do not match the the cylinder so yes this is a lock cylinder that I fuddled around with to make the keys I did have work. Its as easy as swapping tumblers around till they match the key but of course spare tumblers may be needed cause you may not have enough within the one lock but since you do have two you should be fine.

Make sure you have the key fully inserted into cylinder before you remove the cylinder on your good unit or at least a towel underneath because if the key is not inserted your tumblers and maybe springs will fly out everywhere and get lost.

Make sure you put that little crush washer where it came from, pictures at the 3 o'clock on my picture above.

BTW technically you only need one tumbler for the lock cylinder to behave as a lock cylinder. The more tumblers you have though the more secure the lock is.

post-48869-143141725827_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1930 (see edit history)
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