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1953 Straight eight front oil pan bolts


sweetpotato

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Guest shadetree77

On my '52 straight eight there are small holes in the cross member that allow you to access the pan bolts from the bottom with a socket and extension. Look around under there with a flashlight. Good luck!

Edited by shadetree77 (see edit history)
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On my '52 straight eight there are small holes in the cross member that allow you to access the pan bolts from the bottom with a socket and extension. Look around under there with a flashlight. Good luck!
Thanks. I think I didn't spend enough time trying to get up through those holes.
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Guest shadetree77

No problem sweet. It took me a while to find mine as well. The holes were plugged with crud and grease but once cleaned out the pan bolts are clearly visible with a light.

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The old oil pan removal. If this car has been sitting for years as mine had it might have holes in the pan. The dried grunge on the bottom of the pan held the grease/oil/water in the pan. I cleaned my pan only to find it had spider holes in the bottom. Yes it was time for a new/used pan. I bought a used one off of ebay for $10-15. Getting the oil pan off is the easy part. Putting it back on and not srewing up the gasket is MO fun. There is a trick.

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I've never heard of thread except on sealing the case halves on a volkswagon engine. They make a plastic device that screws into the oil pan bolt holes. Then goes the gasket and the the oil pan. The plasic studs hold the gst. and oil pan till you get other bolts started.

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For all gaskets excluding head gaskets, glue the gasket to one surface with weatherstrip cement and install. In this case glue the gasket to the pan. Install dry or use sealant of choice. Never apply slickery sealant to both surfaces --- the gasket will be squeezed out of place during installation. Another trick is to make you own gasket and punch the bolt holes undersized so that the gasket will hold the bolts in place as well as the bolts holding the gasket in place...this would work well for those bolts that are accessed through the frame.

After R&R the pan on my 55 for the 4th time I could replace in a few minutes using a combination of glue and undersized bolt holes along with a butterfly impact (nobody should have that much practice).

Willie

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Hi,

I've never heard of thread except on sealing the case halves on a volkswagon engine. They make a plastic device that screws into the oil pan bolt holes. Then goes the gasket and the the oil pan. The plasic studs hold the gst. and oil pan till you get other bolts started.

Do you have a product name and/or souce for these devices? My auto parts store guy just gave me a blank look.

Thanks,

--Tom

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Guest chevy_dude97

I second old-tank, they make gasket sealer just for this reason. The plastic deals are good when access is granted to them but would not work(atleast easily) with the front holes.

And the butterfly is the only choice when it comes to pan removal... makes life so much easier.

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You do not use these on the front holes. You use these in the middle towards the back. I did use sealant on the gasket and put them up together. You have to be careful when your sliding the pan over the cross member. These blue platic devices just hold the pan in place while your starting bolts and don't have enogh hands. These devices helped me and my OP didn't leak. Any air ratchet will remove OP bolts. If you don't own air ratchets the butter-fly would be a nice one to own.

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