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1922 Buick Coupe


Guest 22Coupe

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Guest 22Coupe

What are the preferred spark plugs to use in the 4 cylinder engine? Should I use the long reach plug or not and what should the gap be?

Also, what gear oil should I use in the rear end and the transmission? Is 600W recommended for both?

I appreciate any advice, Thank you

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Agree the Autolites run the hottest/cleanest. Be careful, these modern plugs are longer externally than the orginal plugs and the external electrode will ground to the sparkplug cover unless you take right angle spark plug boots and slit them down the inside angle on one side and slip them over the plug and wire end.

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Could be Leif. I'm running 3078's (hotter) and not sure how long they are externally compared to the 3076's but on a 1923 6 cylinder the 3078's do jump spark (ground) to the installed cover.

I did once see the original Titan brand original plugs and they are very sort externally so this was not an issue years ago.

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Guest 22Coupe

So, no one has tried the 3077 long reach spark plugs? For those of you who have used the 3076 plugs, what do you gap them at? The engine currently has Champion W16Y plugs in it and they are gap at .020-.023

Does that gap sound correct?

Thank you for any help

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.020 looks right,but I always wonder when people ask those questions why don`t they buy a book or manual for a very small amount comparing to what the price on the car is.

About the plugs,I think you can use a lot of different plugs but be sure that they are not to long to destoy the piston.

Leif in Sweden.

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Guest 22Coupe

Leif,

The car was a recent purchase and I have not gotten around to locating a manual yet, but will do so. I was curious as to what other Buick owners were doing. Also, wondering how many of these cars are around as parts seem non existent?

Thank you for your help.

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Guest 22Coupe

Leif,

It is a Model 36 4 cylinder. All original brochures I have seen say it is a 2 door 3 passenger Coupe. I can't see how 3 passengers could possibly fit? People back in the day must have been small people! With my wife and I there is no room for a third person. Anyway, the car is a lot of fun to drive!

Cheers

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This system does not have a air gap in the dist cap The air gap lets the coil voltage to get higher and will fire the plug

with a hotter spark, opening to plug gap to 035 to 040 will will make the spark hotter.

See Dave Chambers article in AA March - April 1971.

JB

Buick 22-6-55 Sport Touring

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Dave Chambers (famed 1920's Buick expert) did an article in (I think) an AACA publication years ago where a dyno study on gap was run and found 0.035 inch made the most power. I've seen re-prints of the very good article several times and wish I had a copy. Based on the article, I agree and have been running 0.035 for years with as hot a plug as I can find. This is not a 'fix all' change. Everything else has to be in good order also (coil, condenser, points, cap, wires and their connectors). Perhaps someone has this article?

The other change is base timing change which i have reviewed on this forum several times.

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Guest 22Coupe

I originally found the plugs were gaped at .020 which looked to small to me (engine running). I increased the gap to .035 and it looked unnatural to the plug so I decreased the gap to .030 and the engine would not start. I decreased the gap again to .025 (looked more appropriate) and the engine fired right up. A little food for thought?

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Guest 22Coupe

Does anyone know the model number of the correct Stewart vacuum tank for the 1922 Buick 4 cylinder engine? The tank is missing on my Coupe. Likewise, if someone has the correct tank for sale?

Thank you for your time

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1921 D,E,H,K 6cyl.=122-A-----1922-1923-1924 4cyl.=122-AB------D,E 4cyl.=122-H----------1924 6cyl.=208-A------------1925-1926 Std.=215-A-------1925-1926 Master=216A----------1926 Std.1927-1928 ser 115.=216-T---------1926 Master,1927-1928 ser.120-128=216-U,

The last ones it`s not quite right I think, becuse I sold a 216-X today and I think that was for a 1928 Buick as well.

Leif in Sweden

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Guest 22Coupe

Leif,

I have both the reference book and manual are on their way.

A question I have right now is: There is a little oil leakage from the right rear axle seal onto the brake shoes (from what I can tell from underneath). Is there a puller I need to get the hub assembly off? Would you know the size of the puller? Also, what type of axle seal will I need to find (or make)?

Again, Thank you for your help.

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