petrol tank cap and gauge

[R.White]

I expect it's a bit of a long shot but I am on the lookout for a DB petrol tank cap and gauge for my '26 (27series) touring. As usual I am prepared to pay a good price for these items if they are in good condition. Can anyone help?

Ray.

[Guest 1930]

Pictures are always helpful so people that may not know what they look like can maybe lend a hand

[R.White]

Sorry, I have no photos - the correct items are missing from my car so I am relying on others to know what they look like. In my mechanics Instruction manual there is an indistinct picture of the cap - it seems to have a protuberance of some kind. The gauge is the kind which is attached directly to the tank - mine has no decal at all, just a small metal arrow type hand. It may be original and a new decal could be attached; but I would like to see an example first.

Ray.

[MikeC5]

I'm not sure if it's the same as what you need Ray but Meyers sells reproduction gas gauges.

[Guest 1930]

I would suggest always finding a photo of what exactly you are in need of however that needs to happen I.E contact some similar year D.B owners and posting them here. I for one and I am sure others do not know what exactly it is you need and so cant help.

[MikeC5]

Those repro gauges are a bit pricey though. I'll be using the calibrated stick gauge for a while...

[R.White]

Mike, following on from what Jason suggested as a way forward, do you have an original gas tank cap? As a picture of one has never been posted here before, it would be a great help if that could be arranged some time. It would seem (from what I can see in my manual) that the cap has an odd protuberance in the middle? Is this what you have? The one which came with my car is a modern replacement which doesn't fit properly and looks incongruous. The Myers cap would fit but I don't know how authentic it is; it looks as if it could be completely different.

I have now investigated the repro Myers gauges; the cost will be a factor for consideration, especially taking shipping into consideration but as I intend using the car frequently, a usable gauge will probably be worth the investment. I am, however, tempted to just buy the decal, pointer and gaskets and restore the one I have.

Ray.

Edited September 23, 2012 by R.White (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

Hi Ray, I really don't know if the cap I have is original. I know I haven't seen one with its type of mounting on fleabay. The filler neck on the tank has two pins about 180 degrees apart and the cap has indentations that are guided by the pins. I have seen electrical connectors use a similar principal and I beleive it's called bayonette mount. My car came with this extra cap that had a hole in the lid. When I later de-rusted it I found the brank name 'Neva-Lost', which apparently was a popular aftermarket cap in the day. The idea behind it was you wouldn't lose it because the end cap flips open instead of removing the cap. It is missing a wing nut and sheet metal cam-like device that you tighten to keep it from popping open. I'm going to try and find a right sized wing nut and fix it up eventually. Does your DB have a separate gas gap and gauge or are the two combined as one? On the 25, the gauge has a separate opening a few inches from the filler. I think the one Meyers sells is for this type.

[MikeC5]

Forgot the photos...

[R.White]

Thanks Mike. The photos are great. I am sure our tanks are essentially the same with the cap and gauge a short distance apart. The cap in the lower picture is a super deal isn't it. I can't say any more than you whether it is original to the car or not but if I had one as 'in period' as yours I would be reluctant to change it. If you look at the repros on Myers, they have a smooth detachable one quarter turn top. If that is correct for the period, they are a good cheap ($8) fix and would fit my tank I expect. Ideally, I would like to establish what an original cap actually looked like - it is the picture in the manual which shows what looks like a pin of some kind protruding from the cap which has caught my attention.

The gauges which Myers have look just right. Expensive, but thankfully available. You get what you pay for I believe.

Ray

Edited September 23, 2012 by R.White (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

Ray, post a picture of the cap in the manual if you can or send it to my e-mail and I can post it.

[JayG]

Ray - Here are some pics of what I believe is an original cap from my 25 roadster. The tank neck has the 2 pins as Mike mentioned and the cap has a spring mechaninsm that grabs the pins and secures the cap. Hope these help. Jay

[MikeC5]

I will get a photo of the other one now on the car Ray.

[R.White]

I am grateful for your help Jay. The neck of the filler on my tank does not have those lugs either side; instead, there is an internal fixing so a cap like yours would not fit. The lugs would need to be on the cap itself like the Myers replacement one which I cant get to reproduce here. Yours does not look like either that, or Mike's or the one in the manual. At the moment, I could not say if any of them are original, but your filler neck is definitely different from mine.

Sorry, Jason I am unable to scan anything with this lap top. I believe there is something wrong with either the router or the computer itself which keeps playing up. Many thanks anyway.

Mike, thanks for your help also. I will come back to this tomorrow or should I say later today - it's nearly 2.00A.M....

[Pete K.]

Here's two pictures of my '25 Dodge gas cap with the spring wire inside the cap that bayonettes onto the filler neck. It is a vented cap, using a cork gasket. The next pictures are of a tank in my collection using the type cap Ray is talking about. It is a heavy steel cap, threaded internally with hex sides that fit the Dodge box end wrench to tighten it onto the tank. The "protuberance" is knurled, where I find it handy to spin the cap onto the tank since it is threaded. This cap has a heavy steel plate with a hole in it. What it doesn't show is the tiny cross pin, way up in the cap's protuberance, where a small ball chain was attached, down to this steel plate. This assembly was for the venting without the spillage if the car flipped over. The tank was my spare for the '25, but upon inspection, the gas gauge is in a slightly off-set position and won't fit into my rear tank cover. I was thinking this was now for an earlier Dodge, perhaps a '22 or '23?

Edited September 24, 2012 by Pete K. (see edit history)

[R.White]

Well done Pete! I feel more justified in raising the subject now - I had begun to wonder if those caps even existed!

As my tank does not have a threaded filler neck, that more interesting Dodge cap with built in safety feature will not fit. I concur with you that it is probably an earlier part - (Those Dodge Brothers were way ahead). The type fitted to your '25 and Jay's car would seem to be correct for the year, so as they will not fit my tank either, I guess the design was changed for the later 4 cyl. cars. I think the Myers repro - which looks quite good value and has a neat warning about the danger of petrol splashing on it - will be the way to go.

As far as the gauge is concerned; the Myers deal also looks good. As I need a few other 'period looking' parts like red top and bottom hoses, h t leads, radiator cap/temp gauge, crank hole cover etc. I will have quite a shopping list. With the import taxes and shipping costs, the bill is going to be another big one. My wife (otherwise known as the Memsahib) will hit the roof!!!

All good fun!

Thanks guys, I'm proud to be part of this forum.

Ray.

Edited September 24, 2012 by R.White (see edit history)

[Pete K.]

Ray, What if I buy the parts you need from Myers, then ship them to you marked as a "gift". Then there wouldn't be a tax on your end?

[R.White]

Thanks for the offer, Pete. That is kind of you. The only problem is that I would pay Myers by paypal. If I were to send you a cheque it would be in Pounds Sterling and you may find that your local bank will only take dollars from another American Bank.

I could arrange a special payment through my Bank but by the time I have lost time off work to drive into town and paid out for petriol and parking it wouldn't be worth it.

Thanks for the consideration.

Ray.

[Pete K.]

I hear what you say Ray. If I walked into my bank with Pounds Sterling, They'd clunk me over the head with a stapler. It's too bad folks have to pay plenty for parts, but the tariffs are just out of hand (and out of pocket!!). There should be some sort of "Historical Restoration Parts" clause in the tariff laws that allow people anywhere in the world to gather parts for antique items, say, over 50 or 75 years old, for the sake of posterity. I'll keep an eye out for an old cap that may work for your tank. Best regards Ray, Pete.

[R.White]

What's not fair, in my view, is that while tariffs for individual items have been soaring, the important tariffs which were quite modest and originally intended to protect vulnerable industries from cheap imports using child labour have been withdrawn for political reasons. We used to have a brilliant textile industry and if you wanted any material for a car interior, like the Dodge Brothers mohair for example, it would be available at a reasonable price. As a result of cheap imports flooding the home market, we have lost 90% of the industry and who knows how many jobs. The end result has been far less choice for the vintage car restorer (amongst others).

Only my personal observation; I have no political allegiance. They are all made of Plasticene.

Ray.

[MikeC5]

Plasticene indeed Ray. I am amazed that DB had an flip over anti-drain cap back in those days. No seat belts, plate glass everywhere but... someone was thinking about safety. At least the parts you are ordering fit into a small package. I image they would really zing you on a large, bulky part.

[R.White]

How about $270 for shipping and bills on a 6 volt generator?

I don't see any point in complaining. It's only money. Either you can afford it or you can't.

I have always known that restoring an American car would be more expensive but as I was gifted the car in the first place, it would be churlish to grumble about the import costs. As it happens, I have been ripped off more by so-called "experts" over here.

[Guest 1930]

How about $270 for shipping and bills on a 6 volt generator?

I don't see any point in complaining. It's only money. Either you can afford it or you can't.

I have always known that restoring an American car would be more expensive but as I was gifted the car in the first place, it would be churlish to grumble about the import costs. As it happens, I have been ripped off more by so-called "experts" over here.

Ray what manual are you using, maybe I have the same version and can look at the picture and if need be post an image so we see what you are after

Your serial number would help as well so we can see if you are looking at the correct manual maybe

[MikeC5]

You're certainly not prevaricating about the bush Ray, those are frightening surcharges. But for a worthy cause in my humble opinion... Here are a few photos of the cap that was on the tank when I bought the car. I noticed the tank neck doesn't have the ears on the inside that would let me use a cap like Meyers sells.

[R.White]

I have two manuals, Jason. The 18th edition of the Book of information dated June 1926 and Mechanics Instruction Manual originally published by the Service Division in April 1927. Both books show a picture of the gas tank with the cap which has the protuberance i.e. the one with the safety feature which Brian has posted. We don't know the date of this cap but it has a screw thread and will not fit any of our cars. I have yet to find a cap in the parts book which you sent me but if there is a picture I will be able to post it as I now have transferred the discs onto my computer.

My car serial number is A791 370 which dates the build to October 5 - 15th 1926 in the 1927 series.

I believe the cap required will need to be a quarter turn type with lugs on it to fit in the internal bayonette in the filler neck. The Myers repro one is only $8 and will probably do fine until an original part turns up.

[Pete K.]

Ray, This is Brian, otherwise known as Pete. I cannot find a cap that will fit your tank. I think I know pretty much what it would look like, using internal lugs on the filler neck. The black cap shown in my previous pictures is what I believe is the original cap that was supplied by Dodge, as my '25 is a July build, but for the '26 SERIES.--(A388850). I checked the Mechanic's handbook, Revised edition, 1926, showing the cap with the dang protuberance! The 17th edition, March of '25 Book of Information also shows the "same image" used in the Mechanic's Handbook, again the cap with the protuberance. Obviously, the printers used older images that were drawn back a few years to save money on artwork until it was necessary for the pictures to show a dramatic change, or an important technical change. I've noticed this with the pictures of the vacuum tank also.

[JayG]

Here's a picture from a San Diego Craigslist add. The car is listed as a 25 but is obviously an earlier model. This shot shows the 'spiked' gas cap. Jay

Sorry - I copied the pic from the add but it's too small. Go to Craigslist San Diego and in the Cars and Trucks section search for Dodge Brothers.

[Guest brian j]

I used to own a 1916 DB Roadster body, and frame, and IT had the early threaded cap on the gas tank pictured on the previous thread comment, with the wrench on the top. I sold it, and the 1919 DB Coupe i have now has the identical tank with threads, but no cap. Go figure. So now i'm in need of a threaded gas cap also. Anyone have one they would sell? Also my gas guage is intact, but the face lettering is gone. I know Meyers sells those, but the bezel is different. It is made of stamped sheet metal, and appears as if it is pressed on or something. I'm not sure if it can be removed (the bezel)to replace the faceplate. Can it be removed? And if so, how to go about it. I don't want to break anything. Sorry about the hitchhiking on your thread, Ray. I thought as long as you were on the subject, i would try to solve my gas tank problems also.

[R.White]

Sorry for the slip Pete. I don't know how that happened. Thanks for looking for a cap.

Just to add even more confusion to an already muddled picture, my parts book, while not showing a picture, states that the lugs on the side of the filler cap were discontinued from chassis A677 902. This change would have been from early June 1926 in the '26 series. My cap would need the lugs, so perhaps the tank is earlier than the car.

When lugs were first introduced on the cap, I don't know but it was presumably following the discontinuation of the spring clip type.(yours). If my tank is original to the car, a further change must have been instigated to reintroduce them,(shortly after they had been discontinued). Of course, although generally reliable, there could be an error in the literature.

I will ask Tom Myers if he knows any more. As you know the repros he sells have lugs so hopefully will fit.

With the price of petrol (over $9 per gal.) perhaps I should get a locking cap!!

I have also established that replacements for your spring clip bayonette type caps were at one time available from the 'Spring Cap Company, Ohio' . I suspect that DB bought in some caps but can't be sure.

Ray.

[R.White]

You are always welcome to introduce a little wander from the main subject on my threads, Brian. After all, we both want gas tank caps. Some prefer to stick to a straight line but my threads are like my old cars - they all have a little wander built in!

Ray.

[Guest brian j]

And i'll keep an eye out (in my travels) for a cap for you, Ray. Thanks.

[MikeC5]

I'll keep an eye out at Hershey for you too.

[R.White]

Thanks Guys.

[carlisle1926]

I just listed a Dodge brothers gas cap and the neck on Ebay. I removed it from a 1923 model. It is the threaded model with the weird vent spike on top. The cap is frozen to the neck from years of sitting, but it isn't rotten.

Jason Barnett

[R.White]

The cap I needed was the 1/4 turn type and I have just bought a replica one from Myers. I also got a gas gauge face and pointer. They also supplied a new cork float. All I need now is the time to work on the car!

Ray.