JayG Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Does anyone know what the COLD valve adjustment settings are for a 25 Dodge. I have the engine stripped down for cleaning, painting and leaky gasket replacement. I'd like to adjust the valves while I'm at it while everything is out of the way. Thanks, Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 Jay, As you probably know, "The Book" says to adjust them when engine is warmed up, set to .005" - .006". I think you'd be OK if you set the clearance to .007" for intake and .008" for the exhaust valves when cold. Just remember to check clearances again when you've got it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) For what's it's worth...the valve clearance specs for my '32 6-cylinder, set hot, are inlet = .005, exhaust = .007. But when I set them cold at .012, I didn't get satisfactory performance until they were opened to .015. Up until then, I got some missing (from incomplete valve sealing) when the engine was fully warmed up and under load. Your situation may turn out differently, but maybe something to keep in mind. It's better to err on the wider gap side than risk burned valves. Edited September 7, 2012 by Phil 32DL6 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) Well, It really got me to thinking--I've had old cars of many different types and years, the lifter/valve stem clearance can be varied. Sure enough, I removed the valve covers on the '25 just a bit ago, again, to VERIFY my readings of months ago. (why didn't I write them down??). The COLD clearance on this Dodge Brothers engine is .007" - .008" and one was .009".--COLD. This Dodge was driven hundreds, if not thousands of trouble-free miles by it's previous owner,(RIP), as a family member told me of his Dad's New England tours he took with this car. NO ONE has touched this engine since his death in '94. This is verified. It actually looks like the engine's never been apart. I now have such great compression using the hand crank since I did have some stuck valves back in April of this year at purchase. The compression leak down is well within limits. The car had not been even started since owner's death. Anyway, I'm always learning a few idiosyncrasies about this Dodge engine every day. Perhaps this valve train design somehow runs cooler? I see no valve issues now with my engine, so I'm keeping these valve clearances as I find them. When I get it running, which will be very soon I hope, I'll check the hot clearances.---Pete. Edited September 8, 2012 by Pete K. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 ...so I'm keeping these valve clearances as I find them.As they say, "If it ain't broke...don't fix it!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I set mine at 0.010" cold and it seems to operate fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billstewart Posted September 8, 2012 Share Posted September 8, 2012 I sef mine at .006and .008 and it runs great, Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Don't you all just LOVE fiddling with those valve covers and heat tube??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fuimus Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 After a lot of consultation with some old timers here in Johannesburg as well as all the input from this Forum, I set mine at 0.011" and 0.012" cold. I agree with a point made that the Dodge valves may run colder than usual, which is why I came down a little from some advice to go with a wider gap.My car will be running a a few weeks (Parts permitting!) and I will give feedback at that time.Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Speaking of the valve covers. When I took mine off there were no gaskets. Only a little bead of silicone. Do you guys have full corkk gaskets in place like the ones Myers sells? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 That's what I have on there Jay. It was difficult to get the covers flat enough to where the gasket would actual impede oil from dripping down the block... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Jay, I have a $3.00 roll of cork gasket material in my shop that I cut all sorts of gaskets from, including two new cork gaskets for the Dodge valve covers. Just unroll the cork material, trace around cover with a ball point pen, cut it out with a pair of scissors. brush on a coat of "Weldwood contact cement" made by the DAP people, found in most hardware stores. Do both the cover edges and the cork, allow to set-up, then carefully place the cork gasket on the valve cover and it's permanent. I choose to cut out the center of the gasket so as I only have a thin cork strip cemented around the mating edge of the valve cover-to-block instead of a huge floppy piece of cork doing nothing to seal the cover to the block. I also found it better to leave the areas bare where the valve covers overlap each other and close to the heat tube. It's hard enough to get these in right without a gasket getting in the way. Jay, my '25 didn't have their gaskets on the covers either. The covers-- were originally, slightly dish shaped, so when the wing nut is tightened, it should in theory, flatten out evenly around the perimeter of the valve cover--- The rear cover overlapping the front one and finding it's way through the little groove at the top of the heat tube at the same time. ---GOOD LUCK.!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 Has anyone got a decent photo of the heat tube? My car didn't have one and I'm going to keep an eye out at Hershey... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 (edited) Mike - The length tip to tip is 6 inches and the diameter is 1 1/2 inches. Hope this helps. Jay Edited September 9, 2012 by JayG (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayG Posted September 9, 2012 Author Share Posted September 9, 2012 Pete - Thanks for the suggestions on the valve cover gaskets. I do have a roll of cork gasket and was going to make my own. I like the idea of only using the edge and cutting out the excess. Sticking it to the valve covers is also a good idea. I can see them being a pain to work with. I will be checking the valve clearances before I touch them but from what I'm seeing from the posts .007 and .008 may be what I will set them to. Thansk to all for the input.Thanks, Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil 32DL6 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 After you set the valve clearance and everything seems to be running smoothly, make sure to give it a final road test by getting it up to 40mph or so for a while to get it good and hot, and also run it up a steep hill, to see if you start to get any stumbling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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