Removing water temperature sensor from 1937 Buick Straight 8

[Mutt's37Buick]

Removing water temperature sensor from 1937 Buick Straight 8<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm just starting a frame off restoration on my 1937 Buick Roadmaster (320 cu inch straight 8) and have been working to dissassemble the dash & interior before bodywork and paint.

I have the instuments cluster removed, except have not been able to pull the water temp sensor out of the engine block.

The nut on the engine was easy to remove, but the sensor appears to have seals on it and I have not been able to pull it out with needle nose pliers.

1) Is it correct that sensor should pull straight out?

2) Can anyone give me tips on how to remove it without damaging the sensor?

3) Does anyone know what the seals are made of and is there something I could use to disolve them?

Thanks<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[Pete O]

After loosening the nut, the sensor should pull straight out, but it is likely being held in by gunk and rust. Did you happen to notice if the sensor spun when you removed the nut? If it did, you may have already kinked the tube. There is no seal. There is only a flat flange on the bulb that is pressed down against the shoulder of the hole which the bulb goes through by the nut. Soak the thing with penatrating oil for a couple of days. Gently give it a small twist of a couple of degrees only back and forth to break the hold of the rust, and it should pull straight out.

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks very much for your help

[DonMicheletti]

This is a common problem.

There is a good idea mentioned in the old Torque Tube Magazine. Go to this site:

1937 and 1938 Buicks www.1937and1938Buicks.com

Look at issue X1 issue 6, pg 20

This shows a stud removal to get at the back of the bulb. However this will not work if the staccheon has a bole (like my '38 Special)- that has a blind hole.

If you have a '37 or '38 Buick, I strongly recommend checking the old Torque Tube. They have a wealth of good information.

Don

[Mark Simmons]

Mutt- Pete is right about "pull it straight out". The head has a sleeve in it just past where the temp bulb retainer threads stop. This sleeve is about 1/2" to 5/8" long and slightly larger than the bulb itself which makes for an area where all kinds of rust and gunk collects. Even with the head off the motor on a bench these tend to be no fun to extract.Use any and all penetrating products you can think of and let them soak(days) quite awhile. The end of of the bulb is a solder closed connection and can be easily grabbed onto with needle-nosed pliers. Remember to "pull it straight out". If after several soakings it still won't pull out you can drill a small hole in the bulb and install a sheet metal and lever it out with a pry-bar. There are some vendors out there that can repair or have replacement bulbs. I had this same problem with the motor in my '34 Buick. 76 years of gunk/rust/crud in my motor had that bulb stuck well. I hope yours is not that stuck. Good luck, Mark

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for all your help.

I sprayed lots of Blaster penetrating spary & put the cap back on.

I'll try it again tonight and repeat if required.

[trp3141592]

Hi,

There's a video article, possibly on youtube, that demonstrates repairing the bulb tube and loading replacement fluid. I'll be doing that with my Cord. Doesn't appear to be rocket science, but does require some preparation. I'll look for the info and post it here when find it.

--Tom

Edited June 27, 2012 by trp3141592 (see edit history)

[trp3141592]

Hi,

Found the article for repairing your existing capillary gauge at 1933 Plymouth Temperature Gauge Repair. Basically, you are splicing your gauge head onto a new (autozone has them, as do others) capillary gauge.

Of course, if you get your bulb out of the block intact, you won't need to do this!

--Tom

[Mutt's37Buick]

Thanks for the pointers.

Tom, nice looking car. Probably looked like mine did when my Grandparents bought it used in '42. Blue paint job and 30 years in the elements has taken it's toll.

Hopefully in a couple of years I'll have her back.

1) Sounds trivial, but would any of you gentlemen know how to remove the front seats?

Looks like there are four bolts with nuts under the car, but cannot see the heads to put a wrench on the top side.

Thanks

[trp3141592]

Hi,

My LaSalle has gone down the same road as your '37--time, weather, and mileage. The LaSalle has been on the road since 1983 as a three-season driver. And after 30 years the lacquer paint has all crackled and is falling off in large chips. I need to repaint--with a more durable paint this time.

Let me know how the gauge repair turns out.

--Tom