chistech Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 On 8/16/2020 at 11:00 AM, BearsFan315 said: talked to the previous owner, it is blue per regulations as it is aviation fuel, like 100 octane and either Low Lead or Ultra Low Lead. so explains the blue fuel Av gas is methanol free but I’m not sure of the lead. Many older airframes are still up and flying with engines designed for leaded fuel but with engine annuals you would think possibly all of them have been rebuilt with hardened seats. Because of the freezing problems at altitude, they want nothing in the fuel that can attract moisture. The octane is always high to help prevent detonation. We want our cars to run good but if the don’t, they just leave us on the side of the road. Different story if a small plane engine doesn’t run good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 this is a shot of outcome of first rinse with simple water and chain to break things up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 since i am working the fuel system i plan to use the spare fuel pump i built for the 1929 as the main fuel pump for the 1930 as it is original AC 405 pump the one on the 1930 is a universal style, non AC. in doing so ordered a rebuild kit for the universal fuel pump, same kit as the AC 405, tore down the pump, blasted case, cleaned it all up. have to order new hardware for it on monday then i can put it all back together 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 also got in new 5/16" steel fuel line to run a new line direct from tank to pump... had to buy 25' roll, could not find anyone that sells it by the foot anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 23, 2020 Author Share Posted August 23, 2020 had to roll out the 30 to get to my blast cabinet and use it, so took a few driveway shots 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 did a quick acid wash then rinse, then light oil coating on inside of tank... was quick and simple, did this on saturday. took all afternoon 😛 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 well spent most of Saturday installing the fuel tank, spare fuel pump ( one i rebuilt as a spare for my 1929 ), carburetor. took my time and started at carburetor and worked back. fuel pump second then started measuring out and bending new fuel line. 5/16" steel. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) installed the fuel tank then installed the plug and cutoff valve, then measured out and bent the fuel line to run to the cut off valve and allow room for removal !! Edited August 31, 2020 by BearsFan315 rotated photo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 got everything installed then dumped in a gallon of fuel and looked for leaks. the plug has a sow seepage, so tightened it up a tad and that solved that issue. next was trying to fire it up... and that is when the fun begins. truck fought me every step of the way. getting fuel to pump no issue, getting fuel to carb not happening. seems that the valve/wafer on the discharge side was stuck closed. easy fix after hour of hunting down issue. then getting carb primed... oh the joy, luckily a friend was over to help and we got the carb primed. had to choke carb and hold hand over carb to get it to start. and would only run with choke on. even once it was warmed up. then it ran hot. laser temp on block was 212 !! so plan for sunday is to go to square 1 reset all valves, cold set. then pull all plugs, clean and regap, pull distributor cap set points and clean them. make sure when 1 at at TDC that the rotor is pointed at 1 as well as the wires in the correct firing order. oh the joy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 plugs pulled and overview of engine as a whole 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 on sunday also finished rebuilding that spare fuel pump. looks good, pulls a suction and spits out as designed !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 decided to do a fuel pump test, see if and how much fuel the pump was actually pumping... shot a short 10 second video, not sure if this is proper flow or low ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 got a dwell question. in resetting the timing and such from scratch i did get the car to fire and run, sorta. had to keep choke out a little but did a dwell test to see what the dwell angle was. according to the info i have on hand it says spark gap .040" timing at 18 d, point gap .018" or 34 degrees. with this setup cold i was getting dwell of about 24 degrees as shown below: was pretty consistent, even revving up and idling down. per my understanding to increase the dwell angle have to close the points. so ended up at about .013" and dwell of about 29-30 deg. also understand that you set the plugs, then the dwell then tweak the timing... and somewhere adjust the fuel flow to get idle as low as possible without stuttering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 sorry was looking and typing and not thinking on what i was physically doing in the garage when i set it... been a LONG monday !!i was at 31 degrees as pictured then adjusted and now at 36-37 degrees. I am going to tinker with it a little more to get it close to the 34 degrees per recommendations. Will open the gap up to .014" or .015" and see where that puts me. I can then tinker with the timing to get it happy and then carb to get idle smooth and steady. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 1, 2020 Author Share Posted September 1, 2020 thinking may be a gummed up carb. since it is requiring choke to run, means it is running lean. too much air and not enough fuel !! luckily i have a spare Carburetor on the shelf that goes to the 1929, so I can swap them out and see if that solves the choke and starting issue. if it does then this one will get sent out to get cleaned/rebuilt. if it does not solve the problem, then... umm search/ troubleshoot on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 ok tinkered with the truck again last tonight... new cap, rotor, condenser set plug gap to .040" set points to .018" swapped out carb to spare 150s ...set idle screw to 1 turn out few cycles and carb primed and then started. used 1/2 choke then once it fired pushed in choke and kept running. then adjusted the idle screw to get it to run smoother (still not 100% on proper way and what is best way to do this) then set up timing... adjusted it so that at idle with spark knob all the way in engine is running at 18 BTDC i hooked up rpm meter and said it was running around 600-700 rpm, i know that is high... if i try to tweak the idle/mixture then i can get it down to about 500 and below that sounds like it is sputtering/hesitating. also validated dwell and it is right at 31 degrees, which i can live with. not enough knowledge and experience to do the fine tuning. i can get it to run but tweaking it to get it right is another thing order of tuning: 1-set spark gap 2-set point gap/dwell 3-set timing 4-set idle & mixture 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 got everything done and it will fire up a lot easier and quicker, usually with a little choke if any at allissue is now it wants to cough/pop back through the carbit will idle fine, but if you press on accelerator it wants to choke, gasping sound then when it catches up it wants to cough/pop back through carb. tells me it is running lean, even if i increase the idle same issue.took it out around the block and it pops under acceleration as well. if you granny crawl it out of gear and up to speed you are OK, slowly release clutch and NO accelerator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 6, 2020 Author Share Posted September 6, 2020 (edited) did a test to see IF fuel flows when you push the accelerator. this is what happens when you push the accelerator: assume this is correct, is the fuel coming from the bowl or the accelerator pump ?? Edited September 6, 2020 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 check your compression and check for a vacuum leak. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 did a second carb test to validate that it would squirt fuel consistently on more that 1 pump... carb seems to be functioning properly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 did some back tracking of fuel supply and went back to the fuel pump. after taking it off and looking it over found out that the gasket for the fuel bowl had swollen and pushed itself out of its seat allowing pump to start sucking in air matched up top edge and new on top of existing in fuel pump can really see how much it swelled zoomed in side view Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 so swapped out the gaskets and did a bench tench using my vac/press guage. was getting 5-7 Hg on Suction and approx 1.5-2.0 PSI on the discharge, which is more than enough. should be slightly lower when ion car, as on bench by hand i am getting 100% full stroke whereas the cam will not. reinstalled the fuel pump, ran same vac/press test i ran on the bench. got 4.5-5.0 Hg on the suction and about 1.0-1.5 PSi on the discharge. reconnected everything and then did a prime test filled the bowl up in 2 cycles of ten seconds, which is pretty good from my view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 next test was to connect my tube up to the discharge side and see how it pumps out into my test container. looks like a good amount of pressure and output 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 reconnected the fuel lines primed fuel up to the carb, and fired away. truck fired up and started to run. pulled out choke to fire, then one fired pushed choke back in, did not need choke to run. let it idle for a minute andthen went to check on idle and look for leaks, when it started to stutter then died. went back and fired it back up, then same ordeal. then would not start. seemed like a fuel issue... again took a break ate dinner then dropped carb bowl, it was bone dry, only a tad bit of fuel. so pulled carb and did a test to see if fuel was pumping to the carb, maybe line was clogged ?!? not a drop of fuel when i cycled engine. so back to fuel pump, removed discharge and hooked up my line and bottle, cycled engine, nothing, but could clearly hear it sucking air !! so started to look around and notice glass bowl was not 100% full. put pan under glass bowl and removed it. and noticed the new gasket was swollen and distorted !! not sure what is going on with these gaskets ?!? there are brand new gaskets i got from The Filling Station in the last 2 weeks. I am running NON Ethanol gasoline. yet they swell up within in 10 minutes of being in the fuel ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 got up this morning and pulled out a cork glass bowl gasket i had on the spares shelf to do a comparison, and the swollen gaskets had dried back out and returned back to near normal size >!< this really baffles me, seems they are swelling up in the gasoline then when they dry out returning to normal size ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob staehle Posted September 8, 2020 Share Posted September 8, 2020 BearsFan I had the same problem with rubberized cork from the local parts store. Bought natural cork from McMaster Carr, no more problems. Good luck Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 8, 2020 Author Share Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 17 minutes ago, bob staehle said: BearsFan I had the same problem with rubberized cork from the local parts store. Bought natural cork from McMaster Carr, no more problems. Good luck Bob Thanks, these were the gaskets provided in the rebuild kits i bought. supposed to be ethanol compliant, even though i am using non-ethanol gas. really odd they swelled up like that, yet i used the same kit from the same place to rebuild the fuel pump on my 1929 and never had an issue, has yet to swell or do anything but work. maybe formula change ? i will get some true cork, i was initially concerned that the gasoline would break down the binder used and it fall apart. figured ethanol would increase the breakdown. i noticed they carried: Cork Cork/Buna-N Neoprene/Cork did you use Cork no blends?? Edited September 8, 2020 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob staehle Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 BearsFan, I bought plain cork, no blend. I used it for pan gasket & gas glass bowl, no problems 3yrs. Sorry for late response, good luck Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 man, i recently bought 2 12" x 36" rolls of the Fel-Pro cork-rubber one 1/8" and one 1/16" thick to make various gaskets as needed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 decided to pull the plugs, check them and do a compression test... ran the cylinders twice, and not the same cylinder twice in a row !! Compression Test: Cyl 1: 55 Cyl 2: 70 Cyl 3: 75 Cyl 4: 75 Cyl 5: 60 Cyl 6: 70 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Then took a look at the plugs: Plug 1 Plug 2 Plug 3 Plug 4 Plug 5 Plug 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 all plugs in line cylinder 1-6 (left to right) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 Shot a short video of it idling... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 did a rev test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 did a test run around the block and it coughs/back fires through the carb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 When you accelerate it sounds like it’s got a lean bog. Spray some WD 40 around the manifold and see if there’s any RPM change. Cover your carb slightly as you accelerate and see if it responds better. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexRiv_63 Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Hope you cleaned or replaced those plugs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 4 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said: Hope you cleaned or replaced those plugs... actually what i did today before putting it all back together and testing for vacuum leak(s) took them and cleaned them up used a soft copper wire brush and some clean gas. then double checked all the other settings, gaps, valves, etc... then decided to do a gas swap. drained all the gas out the truck, and went out and got fresh gas and put in a gallon or two. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 once the bowls filled up the truck fired up nicely let it idle for a few minutes and get up to temp. the temp gauge still is NOT moving. so gonna have to drain the coolant, pull the temp and do a test. getting about 8psi of oil pressure idling looks like i am losing charge while idling temp never warms up passed where it sits and a splash of gas in the tank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted September 13, 2020 Author Share Posted September 13, 2020 (edited) so next venture was to test for vacuum leaks... only thing left to really look for used a can of Valvoline carb & throttle body cleaner, is not as potent as brake clean, plus has a little oil in it. does not usually mess with the paint. if i am hearing things right, looks like there is a vacuum leak in between the intake & exhaust manifold, as well as the carb and intake manifold. to validate the carb to intake leak i put a rag over the top of the air intake on the carb so i could make sure that the carb was not sucking in the cleaner. I did spray the cleaner around the air intake with the rag and no change in the engine. so they i sprayed cleaner around carb to intake mounting and same result as in video. i even tightened it a little more, same result. Edited September 13, 2020 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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