Rich Morton Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Hey all, been having some intermittent problems with this vehicle which has really been frustrating.Basically what has been happening is it will occasionally stall in inopportune times {as if there is any good time}This has been ongoing for several weeks.I try to keep the RPM's up when coasting or at a stop to keep it running.Lately when it stalls it seems to not want to re-start.Sometimes I have to wait for it to cool down then it will start.I have recently changed the plugs,wires,Pcv Valve,and 2 of 3 coil packs.I did get two ignition modules from the pull a part ,but have yet to change that or the 3rd coil pack because one of the bolts on that coil pack has a stripped head and I have not been able to get that one loose.I did buy some MAF cleaner and I am going out now to clean the Maf sensor.I am also going to replace the fuel filter tonight.Running the diagnostics for trouble codes it seems to only give an EO17.My understanding is that if the MAF sensor is bad it may not give a code.I do have a Haynes manual,as well as a Riviera service manual.To add to my problems,last Friday getting on the highway the exhaust went super loud.Nothings hanging,so I think it may have blown out the muffler which I'll be able to see tonight when I change the Fuel filter.Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.I'm leaning toward the Maf sensor being bad.Thanks in advance for any help.Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 "Extended crank time" can be a clogged fuel filter issue. It takes a certain amount of fuel pressure for the injectors to pop. If that pressure level is not met, "no pop" and continued cranking with "no start". As the fuel pressure might build slowly, as the engine cranks, when the fuel pressure hits the min required pressure, then the engine will start.A loose muffler baffle can cause the stalling, too, if it's in the wrong place at the right time to greatly restrict exhaust gas flow through the muffler. DO change the fuel filter, anyway, to ensure a longer life of the fuel pump.Just some thoughts,NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Have you checked all your vacuum lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 At one time, there were some issues with MAFs causing intermittent stalling. A TSB recommended a "tap test". Basically, the car could be running fine and then suddenly stall out, even at highway speeds. Later, it'd restart and run fine. With the engine running, then administer the "tap test" on the MAF, if the engine faltered, then replace the MAF. The "tap test" was to take something like the handle of a screw driver and tap on the MAF with the engine running. If the engine did not falter, the MAF was fine. There were about three model years covered by this TSB, but I believe they pre-dated your Riv.Personally, it kind of sounded like that if the car suddenly and unexplainedly stopped, you coast to the side of the road, park the car in a safe place, pop the hood, get out and raise the hood, "whack" on the MAF, the car would re-start, you close the hood and continue on your way. But it would be inappropriate to tell a customer that . . . but doing this was also less expensive than calling a tow truck.There were also issues with a particular brand of coil pack, Magnavox as I recall. I believe it was one coil pack set, rather than having three individual coils as the ACDelco system did. That too, I believe, pre-dated your Riv. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brh Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 Second vote for fuel filter. Does it seem to loose power before it stalls?? Could be a bad Catalitic converter. Mine failed, car ran fine just lost power, then the dashboard started lighting up as the engine was about ready to die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I think you are close with the coils, but what it may be is the ignition control module which is what the coils are mounted to. Go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and look up your car. call the local yard listed and tell them you want the coil pack. It will get you the three coils and the ignition control module [which is what the coils are mounted to] all for about $30.00. There are three 11mm nuts that need to be removed [mounted on the bottom side of the module] as well as the electrical connector [7mm]. Two nuts are easy to get to, the nut towards the radiator and engine is the beast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweepspear Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I had similar stalling issues with a '90 Riviera.Would stall and not start again until cold.It was the crank position sensor.More recently a '92 Park Ave I owned would stall at low speeds. Usually when coming up to a stop sign.Fuel pressure regulator was bad.Just a couple of ideas for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Morton Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 (edited) Thank you ALL for the responses.I did change the fuel filter last night as well as cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner.Ran OK on the way to work today,though I couldn't relax from the habit of keeping up Rpm[tough to relax when you have to punch in @ 7:00]The exhaust problem is that the pipe to the catalytic converter broke clean before the converter.I am told they have a part at the parts store that I may be able to install since the combo coke and bud light can wrap with lashing wire installed last night didn't hold up as planned;)Did also wonder about the catalytic converter being bad brh,is there a standard test for the converter?.NTX5467 thanks for the tips about the MAf sensor as well as other advise.I'll try that if problem reoccurs.JohnD1956;did check vacuum lines and they all appeared good.DAVES89 I did already score some new coils and two modules from my local Pull a part, but have a problem with one of the bolts holding one of the coils on.I bought some smaller needle-nose vice grips from harbor freight but haven't had any success with those.Maybe I'll just remove from the bottom as you described.Again thanks to all who have chimed in.Regards,Rich Edited September 13, 2011 by Rich Morton (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brh Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Sounds like your on the right road. I'm a printer and have found aluminum plates hold up good for those pesky exhaust repairs, tin cans are pretty good too!! Wish I knew of a test for those things, to be honest at first I thought I had a trans problem, as it kept down shifting at odd times, probably compensating for the engine. Once he disconnected it, car ran like a champ. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Morton Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Well so much for getting cocky about my repairs.On the way home from work last night it sputtered and backfired then stalled while accelerating and would not start for about an hour and a half:mad:.Did stop before that at Advance Auto and bought a piece of aluminum wrap with clamps to fix my exhaust, just did not complete the repair.Because it's basically an open exhaust at the moment,am I wrong to assume that the catalytic converter is not the cause of my current problem?I'm kind of leaning now toward the fuel pressure regulator as was suggested yesterday.Luckily I did make it in to work this morning but it started sputtering just before I got there.My reasoning for the regulator is because a back fire is related to fuel issues,Right? Thanks again for all the responses thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brh Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 Hate it when that happens. Since the exhaust is open before the convertor I'd say its a fair bet that not the problem. Backfire can be a fuel problem as well as a timing issue. If its the 3800, could it be a bad crank sensor??? I seem to remember something about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Morton Posted September 16, 2011 Author Share Posted September 16, 2011 Just wanted to update anyone who had responded or looked in to this thread.I changed out the ignition module and the one last stubborn coil pack,and repaired my exhaust last night.All is well that ends well! I'm happy to report that I love my Buick Again.:D:D It was touch and go there for a little bit.Not so sure why the car would start and be fine after cooling off when trouble occurred,but I'm definitely not stressed anymore;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweepspear Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 Sounds like your on the right road. I'm a printer and have found aluminum plates hold up good for those pesky exhaust repairs.LOL! I'm in printing too! Used press plates come in handy for repairs outside the pressroom! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest brh Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 LOL! I'm in printing too! Used press plates come in handy for repairs outside the pressroom!Small world sometimes... used press blankets make great drawer liners for tools too!!!LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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